I'm working on a project that requires several miter cuts.
Example: 16"L x 14 3/4"W x 1/2"thick. Each end has a 18deg. miter cut. After I tilt the work table to the right is there a precise way to cut the angles at each end and still maintain the correct length?
Miter Cuts
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a1gutterman
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Miter Cuts
Do you have a model 500? I think that the 510/520 models would allow you to do this with the fence, but maybe the 500 will not? If I was not able to use my fence to guide the boards, I think that I would use a sled, even if I had to make my own, temporarily using the miter bar from my SS Miter gauge.
Tim
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You're getting tricky on us here, Trning.
If you have panels that are 16x14-3/4, then you need to cut your miters so that your outmost dimension remains the same. Essentially, what you need to do is to remove the wood that's not "visible", right? If you're doing 18º cuts, does that imply that you're doing something 10 sided?
It would be better to make your panels slightly oversized and then cut them precisely to size. From one of the other threads here, a panel cutting jig would be safer and better in the long run. With a jig, you can set up a stop to assure the right dimension and a clamp to ensure that the piece did not move while you were cutting. If someone has a panel cutting jig made up, this could be a good time to share.
You MIGHT be able to do one cut on the 16 side on all pieces, and then you MIGHT be able to do a little rigging and get your aux table lined up so that you could use it as a fence of sorts. That's not the safest way to do it, but it MIGHT could work. Panel jig is a better, safer way to go.
Build your jig with the same washer configuration as your miter gauge so that it doesn't lift when you push it. Keep the jig ON the table at all times for the greatest precision.
This is one of those rare times when a tilt-ARBOR is handier than a tilt-TABLE saw, IMO.
If you have panels that are 16x14-3/4, then you need to cut your miters so that your outmost dimension remains the same. Essentially, what you need to do is to remove the wood that's not "visible", right? If you're doing 18º cuts, does that imply that you're doing something 10 sided?
It would be better to make your panels slightly oversized and then cut them precisely to size. From one of the other threads here, a panel cutting jig would be safer and better in the long run. With a jig, you can set up a stop to assure the right dimension and a clamp to ensure that the piece did not move while you were cutting. If someone has a panel cutting jig made up, this could be a good time to share.
You MIGHT be able to do one cut on the 16 side on all pieces, and then you MIGHT be able to do a little rigging and get your aux table lined up so that you could use it as a fence of sorts. That's not the safest way to do it, but it MIGHT could work. Panel jig is a better, safer way to go.
Build your jig with the same washer configuration as your miter gauge so that it doesn't lift when you push it. Keep the jig ON the table at all times for the greatest precision.
This is one of those rare times when a tilt-ARBOR is handier than a tilt-TABLE saw, IMO.
Dean Thomas
KCMO
520, jointer, bandsaw, stripsander
KCMO
520, jointer, bandsaw, stripsander