Shopsmith Forums

I am trying to attach a cast iron shop smith jigsaw to a cast iron headstock of a 10ER. My problem is the threads in the hole on the headstock are stripped so I cannot tighten the saw down on the headstock securely. Any suggestions on how to attach it?

Based on how you describe attaching it, I assume you’re talking about the standard [aluminum] model A-34 jigsaw that was designed for use with the 10-ER, and not one of the later Mark 5-compatible [steel] Model 610 jigsaws?

(picture from the A-34 manual) For the A-34, the bolt that passes through the lower jigsaw casting and into the headstock is obviously about the only thing that holds that accessory in place. So I would guess you have two choices: re-tap the hole to see if there’s enough meat left to reestablish the threads (to do this right, you’d need to disassemble the headstock to get the bearing spacer underneath that hole out of your way), or a jury-rigged method like a ratcheted hold-down strap wrapped around the headstock.

You might want to fix that threaded hole regardless - even if it means tapping to a larger thread size - since that also holds your upper belt guard in place.

Good luck!

Arrowx,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. John has made a good suggestion and probably the simplest if it works. I would try to rethread the hole first. If that doesn't work, you could try enlarging the hole and thread it to a larger size, again as John suggested, which would require finding larger bolts to match it. Another option would be to enlarge the hole and used a thread saver coil thereby still being able to use the original bolts for the Belt Cover and Jig Saw. Another option would be to get a replacement Headstock to switch out for your damaged one. Headstocks rarely get damaged so they are not hard to find but you would need one close to the version of your Headstock to be able to use the parts from yours in it. There were 7 versions of the Headstock for the Model 10's and some parts can be used in any Headstock version but other parts cannot. Let us know if you have any other questions about this problem or anything to do with your Shopsmith.

Thanks for the replies. I had come to the same ideas and it helps knowing I'm on the right track.

If you can't just clean up the existing threads (retap the hole) i would use Russ' suggestion of a thread saver coil. Helicoil is a brand that is synonymous for the item. Ask any machinist and they will know what a Helicoil is. It is a permanent fix for just your problem. It does take a special size drill bit and tap but is very easy to do. The drills and taps are called STI (Screw Thread Insert) sizes. Any machine shop can do it in about 20 minutes.

Thank you!

Arrowx,

Just curious if you were able to resolve the problem and what worked.

We're still working on it. We're attempting to fix a bolt into the striped out hole. JB Weld didnt work, Trying with a different kind of bolt. May have to weld it solid, would rather not. Next problem is where to find the right kind of saw blades lol. There's always something. Combining 3 incomplete 10ERs into one good one

Arrowx,

You said

Combining 3 incomplete 10ERs into one good one

If you have more than one Headstock, why not use one that is not damaged? Now with that thought I need to mention there are 7 versions of the Headstock and not all parts are interchangeable. There were three different Quill lock versions (double wedge, double wedge keyed or single wedge) and two different Way Tube Lock versions (double wedge or single wedge) which are not interchangeable. That is the main difference you would have to worry about. The other would be the Spring Housing for the Pinion Shaft to match the cast on part of the Headstock that keeps the Spring Housing in place. Early narrow ones or later wide ones.

You also said

Next problem is where to find the right kind of saw blades lol.

For the Jig Saw they use 5" plain end Jig or Scroll Saw Blades and for the Table Saw it uses an 8" Saw Blade with a 5/8" mounting hole. For the Jig Saw heaver blades are better as finer blades bend much easier in a Jig Saw. The Jig Saw can also be used without the upper arm attached and use single ended blades.

Below is a PDF copy of the Jig Saw Manual in case you don't have one. It is for the earlier version but the operation is the same for both. The difference between the earlier and later Jig Saw versions is the Lower Frame Assembly, Cover and the number of screws holding the cover on the lower frame.
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Amazing help, thank you so much.
I have one other headstock the would fit the jig saw, but I have it set up as my drill press. I've decided that I need to leave that machine set up due to its weight when trying to lift the drill press upright.
I noticed that the jig saw worked without the upper arm in place but wondered about the safety side of using it that way.
We are re-threading the hole and trying a different size bolt will see if that works.
Thanks for including the manual. It will help immensely!