Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

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Mike
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by Mike »

Lahola1- I’m prepared for all the wobble, everything will be solid, I have some additions to accomplish this part. On the SuperShop I’m going to have to pass for now. If I bring home another machine….well let’s just say I’m pushing envelope with 5 and a shop I haven’t even begun to use. But thanks for the info:-)

Miken and JPG, new setup has issues but I think I’ve devised a work around per below. I’m gonna let it bounce around in the air between my ears for a few days. Thank you both for the insight.
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by JPG »

1 dimension missing. Clearance between the top of the caster frame and the bottom of the ss piston.

RE: Wobble, shim the bores.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Mike
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by Mike »

JPG wrote: Sun Sep 18, 2022 7:01 pm 1 dimension missing. Clearance between the top of the caster frame and the bottom of the ss piston.

RE: Wobble, shim the bores.
About .200 if this is the dim. See pic below
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by JPG »

Yes that is the one I questioned. Now what is the stem length? Also is there vertical slop?

The M5 casters although they do not completely clear the floor when 'up' they do not bear any weight due to slop.

Lowering to the first position, the slop bottoms out and the SS raises off the floor.

So take slop into consideration when determining dimensions.

Now back the the piston.frame clearance, Reducing that clearance to something closer to 1/16" or less will decrease the amount of added height to the foot. That .200 is 2/3 of the excess.

The lip on the piston limits the downward travel. That may preclude shimming the mounting plate upward.(max height position - #2 position).
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Mike
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by Mike »

JPG- I considered cutting down the stem but believe I still have clearance issues, of course I will measure twice and cut once. Still hoping for a brain breakthrough design change. Covid fog is still floating between me ears. Thanks for the input and I’ll review everything again.
I may be old but I’m slow
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by JPG »

The stems are 1/8" longer than oem MVII.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Mike
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by Mike »

JPG wrote: Sun Sep 18, 2022 11:27 pm The stems are 1/8" longer than oem MVII.
Interesting, I think the center lines on these are different and it pushes the wheel further towards front of shoe which is where my biggest interference is. Pretty sure it’s going to hit there unless I cut the shoe down and that creates the need for the design I came up with. What do you think of the rest of the design if I need to go that way?
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by miken »

Mike wrote: Sun Sep 18, 2022 11:46 pm What do you think of the rest of the design if I need to go that way?
I know your question is directed to JPG, but I would avoid cutting your frame rails if at all possible. I would consider reducing the wheel diameter in combination with shortening the stem and moving the wheel axle location closer to the swivel rotation axis.

What are the wheels made of? I would try removing the wheel, then make an arbor using a bolt to hold the wheel in the shopsmith and sand the wheels to a smaller diameter. Then, relocate the wheel axle pin up and over towards the stem. That, with shortening the stem could be enough.

May need to go with a wheel that's not as wide for it to lessen the rotational diameter. The diameter at the edges of the wheel is more than in the center of the wheel.

Thoughts?
Mike
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
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miken
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by miken »

JPG wrote: Sun Sep 18, 2022 8:20 pm Now back the the piston.frame clearance, Reducing that clearance to something closer to 1/16" or less will decrease the amount of added height to the foot.
Mike's wheels have bearings, so the stem does not need to rotate in the bore. He can effectively bottom out that gap completely, and shim the stem in the bore to eliminate all stem movement (wobble) caused between those two parts. There will still be wobble as the bore piece is not a precision fit in the brackets, but it would help.

Mike -
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
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Mike
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Post by Mike »

Miken and JPG- going to cut stem and shim, worse case I’m out 10.00 for a caster. Still think I’m going to add the new shoe but would wait to see if some of the other mods will take care of any stability issues. Thanks for all the assistance
I may be old but I’m slow
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