Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
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Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Installed shim, would rather not use unless absolutely needed, cut stem till bottoms out in piston.
With these casters will need to remove some of the front boot, wheel is still extended a bit past boot when fully retracted. At least sides of boot appear to clear wheel.
With these casters will need to remove some of the front boot, wheel is still extended a bit past boot when fully retracted. At least sides of boot appear to clear wheel.
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I may be old but I’m slow
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
One thing that has not been suggested. Extend the "bottom" of the 'foot 0.300+'. That eliminates stem shortening. 5/16" comes to mind.
Regardless I think adding a sleeve to eliminate stem wobble in the piston bore will reduce the tendency of the piston to fracture.
Regardless I think adding a sleeve to eliminate stem wobble in the piston bore will reduce the tendency of the piston to fracture.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34642
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Do I recall correctly that the caster clears the interior face(opposite side being altered). If so by how much?
Maybe we need to consider reducing the od of the wheels at their outer edges?
Maybe we need to consider reducing the od of the wheels at their outer edges?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Also, keep in mind, the closer the wheel axle is to the swivel rotation axis the stronger the wheel will be, and better able to support the added weight. It will also have less bending moment on the stem and less likely to crack the stem bushing (piston thing) which is already under designed in my opinion. Your wheel axle is a bolt with nut end. Take the wheel off and sand it down 1/2 inch. If that doesn't work, try moving the wheel axle.
Reducing the wheel diameter 1/2 inch will allow you to also move the wheel up 1/2 inch, and at least 1/4 inch closer to the swivel rotation center.
Mike
Reducing the wheel diameter 1/2 inch will allow you to also move the wheel up 1/2 inch, and at least 1/4 inch closer to the swivel rotation center.
Mike
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- Mike's Wheel.jpg (62.2 KiB) Viewed 1004 times
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
If you get too close to the swivel rotation center they won't swivel easily (or not at all) when you try to change directions. After all that is why they are off set to begin with.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
JPG- about 3/8” clear wheel to interior
Far more wiggle on outside face of piston and I can shim that, also lots of slop in the bearings
Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot
Miken- if I removed the 1/4 to 1/2” diameter off wheel, probably no need to move the axel which could work. Just not quite there yet, still leaning towards a permanent fix if I can find one to live with. I believe the axel is placed away from centerline of stem to aid in swivel/turning so probably can’t change that.
Gonna pull off this and work on other assemblies
Far more wiggle on outside face of piston and I can shim that, also lots of slop in the bearings
Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot
Miken- if I removed the 1/4 to 1/2” diameter off wheel, probably no need to move the axel which could work. Just not quite there yet, still leaning towards a permanent fix if I can find one to live with. I believe the axel is placed away from centerline of stem to aid in swivel/turning so probably can’t change that.
Gonna pull off this and work on other assemblies
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- 52A387A6-DA7C-4521-AD3E-27EB9ADA12EE.jpeg (167.61 KiB) Viewed 992 times
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I may be old but I’m slow
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Very true. The original wheels have an offset of 3/8. Wouldn't suggest getting closer than that.
Mike
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Interesting, one of my Mark VII's has individual feet, and one has a single continuous foot that ties both frame rails together. Sounds similar to what your shooting for.
Mike
- Attachments
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- 20220920_213813.jpg (165.63 KiB) Viewed 981 times
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
LOL yes that’s exactly the concept I’m looking to replicate. Not sure why the individual feet? Mine had a piece of angle holding feet together at each end. With issues I’m having, and remedies I’m considering, maybe some 3/8-1/2” x 4-6” high aluminum or steel across the front will play well.
I may be old but I’m slow
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
Re: Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..
Got a little done today, a vision of casters dancing in my head. All things considered I like the main color. Using stainless steel SHCS wherever I can with lock nuts.
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I may be old but I’m slow
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com
https://www.schmuckatellico.com/
https://scshiftknob.com