Shopsmith Forums

Almost completely broken down and JPG’s restoration thread was a lifesaver. Bearings were a bit.h to get off, everything else not so bad. Missing a few parts but nothing affecting basic operation. Motor sent out for rebuild as needed. Lots of elbow grease needed and JPG’s assembly drawings.

Beware! assembly does not currently include lower assembly(box, casters etc.)

No worries, for me that’s probably the easier part and the area I can have more fun with.

Hi Mike, curious if you have the A.O. Smith (C48L2A10) motor, or the General Electric. Also, if you would share what is included in the motor rebuild, just cleanup and bearings, or do they rewind and replace the leads as well? Good to see another Mark VII on the road to recovery.

Thanks, Mike -

Hi Mike- what I get and what I asked for could be 2 different things. It’s a GE and I asked for new bearings, relay, the black tube thing, any wiring, an original switch if available or a switch that can provide forward/ off/ reverse function and I’ll make a custom plate and anything else that will make it as “like new” as possible. So everything and the kitchen sink in a perfect world but we know that will not be the case.
I noticed in your sig line you have a back up VII or parts. I’m missing a few parts if you have some available?
I’m really starting to appreciate this machine and the design. At 1st glance I didn’t know what to think but now I’m scratching my head in a positive way.

Hi Mike, I have been down the same road. My journey started here: viewtopic.php?t=24293
Maybe there is some info that can help you, especially regarding the switch. I was able to fix my original Shopsmith switch, at least temporarily, but it's still working fine so far, and I do have a backup now. However, before fixing my switch I was considering the Taiss, Universal 3 position switch. There's a link to it in the post I linked to above. JPG was a huge help to me, as were many others. Great people here. My original A.O. Smith motor was in rough shape. The leads were pretty bad, but I replaced what I could and it's been running great ever since. What parts are you missing? Sorry, I dont have much I'd be willing to let go.
Mike -

Hi Mike- been reading all the links and copied almost everything, with regards to disassembly, that JPG has put up. Will do same with reassembly when I get there. Your posts, JPG’s and many others are so very helpful and I thank everyone for all of the knowledge and kindness that’s been offered. Thank you for info on the switch and I read the back and forth on that so can make an educated decision down the road. Hope to find an original but can make a nice cover plate if not.
Other stuff I’m looking for at present:
1. Switchkey lock
2. Back cover of vacuum box
3. Vacuum bag and hose- though may never use them
4. Front cover of vacuum box if it has a good decal, or decal might be available?
5. Cam clutch assembly parts 4,5,6,7 in parts breakdown from manual
Other than item #5 I don’t believe I’m missing anything I can’t find a work around on or need to start it up. Not even sure if item 5 is 100% necessary but need to learn more about it.
Thanks for the assistance!

Switchkey lock ?????

LOL, I don’t know, the switch with the key below? Fingers faster than my brain sometimes

A 3 or 4pdt center off toggle switch can replace the original switchkey lock.

Or a dpdt AND a dpst or spst switch pair.

Not perfect, but usable. The original switch with key interlock provides delay when switching direction. thus allowing motor to coast down during on/off/on sequence.

The direction is only determined during off to on sequence.

Flipping the single switch from fwd to rev(or vice versa) too fast will NOT reverse rotation unless the start switch has had time to cycle down to stopped postion.

A downside to the single toggle switch is it will not provide a fail safe effective panic stop function.