Changing out the Head Stock Case

[DaOldGuy]

I have a 1955 Greenie A as I understand it. It lacks the service hole under the SS Logo which makes it more challenging to oil and such.

Instead of drilling and cutting the casting and buying the new style logo, I found a Head Stock Case and Logo from a 1973-1978 version head stock serial # 2702.
Is there anything different that would prevent loading all of my greenie guts into this new case? I have the Upgraded Dual bearing Quill and Poly V Belt, 3/4 horse motor serviced with new bearings. I have not looked, but I assume the 1 1/8 horse newer motor has different mount holes since the bigger motor is a little longer.

On a Side Note:
I have been overhauling the Jointer and noticed, even though the blades are in very nice condition, they all 3 have a slight bow in the middle of each blade. The way the blades lock in, I can see how they would likely be pressed flat when the set screws are tightened?

I am concerned that sharpening the blades out of their holder, it might change things when tightened down?

Thanks
Ron

[DLB]

You can use a "B" headstock case (or even "C") pretty easily. If the headstock lock mechanism is original it will be difficult or impossible to remove it from your old headstock in a usable state. IIRC this is cuz the lock handle isn't drilled all the way through for driving the pin out. Not to say it cannot be done, but cutting the actuating rod is the easy solution. Since many cases come with these parts, this might not be a problem. If it is, SS is likely the only source for the rod because it is has both LH and RH threads. Parts are not expensive.

I like the "C" headstock a little better, and the only additional change is a power switch. The access hole is bigger, especially valuable if you have big hands and/or 'old man skin.'

- David

[JPG]

A method to remove the blind pin is to drill a very small hole through the tension pin (hollow center) all the way through the handle. Then drill back from the newly drilled hole to the internal end of the tension pin(sized to match the original hole od).

Worked on 10E caster. Drill press function was used then.

[chapmanruss]

Ron,

You can use the "B" Headstock S/N 2702 in place of your "A" Headstock. As you noted your Headstock has already been upgrades to a Poly V Drive. As for the motor it should mount the same as a 1-1/8 HP motor. Remember many owners have upgraded to the 1-1/8 HP motor from a 3/4 HP motor. The biggest differences you will see is the 1973 "B" Headstock you are looking at will only have 2 screw holes for attaching that early Greenie Belt Cover you have but still not a problem. Lastly changing to a "B" Headstock you will no longer have the high-speed lock the "A" Headstocks had. There could be an issue for you to address with the Speed Control Assembly.

[DaOldGuy]

Gathering the challenges
Head Stock Locking Mech could be a struggle to remove
Greenie has not had the Poly V upgrade yet, I have bought all of those parts and have not installed.
Agreed on the Motor and have since measured the bolt holes to valid. Not sure how more power comes from the same format but It works.
Belt cover and motor pan came with the B 2702 case so case bolts should be fine.
The "high speed" lock was not working on the greenie, didn't know it was there, but I had never actually ran greenie on any work before tear down

Greenie Drive Sheeves do not have the Oil Hole..... Can those be drilled as a modification?

My B 2702 case did NOT come with the head stock lock, I might be able to buy it from the seller that parted it our
My Greenie case is in full working order, nothing wrong outside it does not have the hole behind the logo to oil.

I assume splitting the shaft and welding in a coupler to re-assemble is what you are referring to DLB? I have a mig welder and fully capable of managing that operation if its the best solution. I will have to sort of the Pin that is being mentioned to understand its process.

Thank you guys, really good information.
Ron

[edma194]

I assume splitting the shaft and welding in a coupler to re-assemble is what you are referring to DLB? I have a mig welder and fully capable of managing that operation if its the best solution. I will have to sort of the Pin that is being mentioned to understand its process.

The entire headstock lock assembly doesn't cost much. Cutting the shaft and removing the wedge locks harder to get done right than it looks. You need a removable lock handle and removable wedge locks to service the machine. Might as well start with fresh parts. To get the old ones out you can cut, drill, or whatever. The wedge locks may be good and worth saving because new ones cost almost as much as the rest.

Code: Select all

--	 13014	Headstock Lock (incl 78-80)	0	26.69
50	504234	Wedge Lock - Right Hand		1	11.95	
51	504235	Wedge Lock - Left Hand		1	11.95

[DLB]

Gathering the challenges
Head Stock Locking Mech could be a struggle to remove
Greenie has not had the Poly V upgrade yet, I have bought all of those parts and have not installed.
Agreed on the Motor and have since measured the bolt holes to valid. Not sure how more power comes from the same format but It works.
Belt cover and motor pan came with the B 2702 case so case bolts should be fine.
The "high speed" lock was not working on the greenie, didn't know it was there, but I had never actually ran greenie on any work before tear down

Greenie Drive Sheeves do not have the Oil Hole..... Can those be drilled as a modification?

Yes! OEM hole measured 3/16". The center is about 5/32" from the aluminum portion of the sheave, and 180 degrees opposite the keyway. I don't think any of these dimensions are critical. Size and location appear to be identical whether a Floating or Control sheave.

My B 2702 case did NOT come with the head stock lock, I might be able to buy it from the seller that parted it our
My Greenie case is in full working order, nothing wrong outside it does not have the hole behind the logo to oil.

I assume splitting the shaft and welding in a coupler to re-assemble is what you are referring to DLB? I have a mig welder and fully capable of managing that operation if its the best solution. I will have to sort of the Pin that is being mentioned to understand its process.

Welding the rod back together after cutting it is an option to replacing the parts. I like JPG's recommendation better and would try that first IIWM, because end state is a 'normal' lock handle with the hole drilled all the way through. It makes it removable later if needed. It is also possible that a PO has already been through this and you have access to both ends of the pin and can drive it out. (Note - on my '57, this hole goes all the way through and is almost certainly original. So the change we are talking about here was early in production.)

Thank you guys, really good information.
Ron

- David

[chapmanruss]

I haven't restored any "A" Headstock Mark 5's so I do not know if these parts are different. The Greenies and Goldie I have done all had the Headstock's Way Tube Lock removed during restoration. The pin for the lock handle went all the way through on those "B" Headstocks. The only challenge reassembling them was getting the hole lined up in the handle and threaded rod to reinsert the pin.

[DLB]

I haven't restored any "A" Headstock Mark 5's so I do not know if these parts are different. The Greenies and Goldie I have done all had the Headstock's Way Tube Lock removed during restoration. The pin for the lock handle went all the way through on those "B" Headstocks. The only challenge reassembling them was getting the hole lined up in the handle and threaded rod to reinsert the pin.

The information is per the full length PowerPro DIY Video, Jim McCann, starts around 19:20. He refers to "very early" headstocks, doesn't mention a specific version. https://youtu.be/xCLkH6T1uQE And of course, some of those early headstocks will already have been reworked for repair or refurb of the locks themselves.

- David

[DaOldGuy]

Thanks everyone for the good replies. I was a bit concerned about the "pin" until I seen what it was.
Roll pins can be a PITA bit of hardened steel, but fear not. Soak a bit of the PB nut blaster. Find a harden punch that will fit the hole in the handle but not fall inside the Roll Pin. Once something goes inside the pin and wedges, it just widens the pin and forces it to lock into the soft aluminum or steel.

The threads on the rod are all happy, not a lot of rust, so I am happy to say no parts needed. From the prices listed and shipping that saved 50 bucks
I need to strip the 2702 case down and prep for paint, I have a plan for a custom mix to replicate the green using rustoleum none aerosol and mixing\tinting colors and then applying with my automotive HVLP gun, and adding a hardener as well. Spray can etching primer will be needed for the cast parts, but it should all go well.

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