Russ - you're so kind. Thank you!
Ashkan
Holes on miter gauge
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Re: Holes on miter gauge
1960's vintage Shopsmith Mark VII with Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Jointer
Re: Holes on miter gauge
Hi David,DLB wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 4:18 pm1) The horizontal holes can hold a stop rod for repetitive crosscuts (https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... rgauge.htm) OR a long allen-type wrench (or alternative long thingy) for aligning the miter slots parallel to blade or rip fence parallel to slot. (This depends on which of many alignment procedures you use. I have not used this method in years.)
2) The vertical holes allow you to install a setscrew that would hold said stop rod or alignment gage.
3) IIRC on some miter gauges the access to the nylon pads that the front edge of the gauge ride on is also through the vertical holes. If this applies to yours, then you want to ensure no setscrews, stop rods, etc. are present as they block access. To my recollection, often faulty, Greenies like yours originally have this type of nylon pad. IIRC it is a simple nylon setscrew. On later versions the nylon pad is a screw that screws in (and adjusts) from the bottom, and is a larger surface. They are not interchangeable, the casting is different.
- David
In item 3 above you mentioned the nylon pads on the front edge of the miter gauge, I have that style and the nylon pads are too low to contact the table causing the miter gauge to rock left and right. Is there a way to adjust those nylon pads?
Thanks.
Re: Holes on miter gauge
Yes. The nylon pads on the old style are essentially a nylon setscrew. The ones shown in an early post in this thread by Russ are slotted, as are my original(?) ones. You'll adjust them from the top through the vertical holes. You need to make sure there is no setscrew installed above the nylon one that would interfere with access, then find that perfect sized screwdriver.judebak wrote: ↑Fri Sep 30, 2022 3:00 pmHi David,DLB wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 4:18 pm1) The horizontal holes can hold a stop rod for repetitive crosscuts (https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... rgauge.htm) OR a long allen-type wrench (or alternative long thingy) for aligning the miter slots parallel to blade or rip fence parallel to slot. (This depends on which of many alignment procedures you use. I have not used this method in years.)
2) The vertical holes allow you to install a setscrew that would hold said stop rod or alignment gage.
3) IIRC on some miter gauges the access to the nylon pads that the front edge of the gauge ride on is also through the vertical holes. If this applies to yours, then you want to ensure no setscrews, stop rods, etc. are present as they block access. To my recollection, often faulty, Greenies like yours originally have this type of nylon pad. IIRC it is a simple nylon setscrew. On later versions the nylon pad is a screw that screws in (and adjusts) from the bottom, and is a larger surface. They are not interchangeable, the casting is different.
- David
In item 3 above you mentioned the nylon pads on the front edge of the miter gauge, I have that style and the nylon pads are too low to contact the table causing the miter gauge to rock left and right. Is there a way to adjust those nylon pads?
Thanks.
- David
- chapmanruss
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Re: Holes on miter gauge
judebak,
As David said it is important to check and remove the set screws that holds the Stop Rod in place before trying to adjust the nylon glide set screws. The nylon glide set screws are generally slotted set screws while the metal set screws that hold the Stop Rod in place are hex. Turning these cup end Set screws down into the nylon glide set screws can damage them. They can get "stuck" in the Miter and not turn, in that case the slotted end can get torn up. I have had this happen to one and had to drill and remove the waste out of the Miter.
As David said it is important to check and remove the set screws that holds the Stop Rod in place before trying to adjust the nylon glide set screws. The nylon glide set screws are generally slotted set screws while the metal set screws that hold the Stop Rod in place are hex. Turning these cup end Set screws down into the nylon glide set screws can damage them. They can get "stuck" in the Miter and not turn, in that case the slotted end can get torn up. I have had this happen to one and had to drill and remove the waste out of the Miter.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Holes on miter gauge
Thanks Russ.