Hi,
This weeks reading is at:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm
You can find other threads related to reading through the on line version of the PTWFE at:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2985
(initial ideas)
and at:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2997
(the first chapter)
I'm a little behind this week so I haven't had time to do my reading... but I will. How are YOU doing on your reading?
Ed
PTWFE Chapter Table saw Basic Cuts CH2
Moderator: admin
PTWFE Chapter Table saw Basic Cuts CH2
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
The read didn't take all that long. Made myself an ice tea, checked my email and even talked with the wife for a bit and did the reading and it is a half hour later.
I wanted to point out that if you are having problems with the images being to small you can click to enlarge them.
There is a lot of good stuff in this chapter so I hope we see some comments, questions and discussions.
Ed
I wanted to point out that if you are having problems with the images being to small you can click to enlarge them.
There is a lot of good stuff in this chapter so I hope we see some comments, questions and discussions.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
-
dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Worthy of discussion.
This statement, copied from PTWFE, should draw some worthwhile discussion.
When properly aligned, the rip fence automatically squares itself with the main spindle-parallel to the saw blade.
With regard to the following quote: They can also be mounted on both at the same time.
The extension table can be mounted in either the base mount or the power mount to give you extra support where you need it.
The safety rules all deserve special attention. I have seen a couple posts on other forums recently from persons who now wish they had paid proper attention.
I violate this one every time I make a ZCI.
Make all adjustments with the blade stopped, with the one exception of changing the speed. Never try to change the configuration of the table or the power plant before the machine has stopped.
Do it carefully and slowly. Do not do it without securing the ZCI in the cutout first.
This can be debated. It really depends on how one augments the Shopsmith with additional equipment (infeed and outfeed tables).
Do not rip large sheets of plywood or similar materials by yourself. Get at least one helper.
When properly aligned, the rip fence automatically squares itself with the main spindle-parallel to the saw blade.
With regard to the following quote: They can also be mounted on both at the same time.
The extension table can be mounted in either the base mount or the power mount to give you extra support where you need it.
The safety rules all deserve special attention. I have seen a couple posts on other forums recently from persons who now wish they had paid proper attention.
I violate this one every time I make a ZCI.
Make all adjustments with the blade stopped, with the one exception of changing the speed. Never try to change the configuration of the table or the power plant before the machine has stopped.
Do it carefully and slowly. Do not do it without securing the ZCI in the cutout first.
This can be debated. It really depends on how one augments the Shopsmith with additional equipment (infeed and outfeed tables).
Do not rip large sheets of plywood or similar materials by yourself. Get at least one helper.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I was just reading your comments and thinking we have had some discussions on a few of these in the past. Some other comments are within the quote.
I also noted that they have a table missing (2-1 Table saw speed chart) if anyone needs that let me know and I will make one up.
Shown in Figure 2-17 is the "waste" being marked with a large X. I was taught and still use a small w right at the saw line. Everyone to his own method here but if the waste is not really waste why mark it up like that. I reserve the X for parts that have loose knots, pitch pocket, and the like as they are going to be real waste. When I clean up at the end of the day it is simple what goes in the scrap bucket and what is trash.
Ed
dusty wrote:This statement, copied from PTWFE, should draw some worthwhile discussion.
When properly aligned, the rip fence automatically squares itself with the main spindle-parallel to the saw blade.
I have found this to be true. I have however seen a lot of posts with people having to measure each and every change... I wish I knew why this seems to happen to people as it sure has to cause some frustration and excess time used for other then woodworking.
The only issue I've had was with the 510 fence when it needed to span the main table and either the floating or extension table. I never resolved issue but moved on to a 520 upgrade.
To bad we couldn't have had a sawdust session on this issue so we all could enjoy the correct alignment.
With regard to the following quote: They can also be mounted on both at the same time.
The extension table can be mounted in either the base mount or the power mount to give you extra support where you need it.
The safety rules all deserve special attention. I have seen a couple posts on other forums recently from persons who now wish they had paid proper attention.
I violate this one every time I make a ZCI.
I find that this is the only way to do the ZCI, in fact I really don't see much of another solution. The shopsmith instructions even tell you to do it this way. So no foul there.
I should also like to point out that it is darn hard to find the correct thickness material these days... the materials are often thinner then what is needed. Keep this in mind when you are out shopping for material.
Make all adjustments with the blade stopped, with the one exception of changing the speed. Never try to change the configuration of the table or the power plant before the machine has stopped.
Do it carefully and slowly. Do not do it without securing the ZCI in the cutout first.
This can be debated. It really depends on how one augments the Shopsmith with additional equipment (infeed and outfeed tables).
Do not rip large sheets of plywood or similar materials by yourself. Get at least one helper.
Having a bad back and getting older has solved this issue for me. I have no desire to do large sheet goods even with a helper on the shopsmith. This maybe one of those issues of "can it be done" vs "should it be done".
I also noted that they have a table missing (2-1 Table saw speed chart) if anyone needs that let me know and I will make one up.
Shown in Figure 2-17 is the "waste" being marked with a large X. I was taught and still use a small w right at the saw line. Everyone to his own method here but if the waste is not really waste why mark it up like that. I reserve the X for parts that have loose knots, pitch pocket, and the like as they are going to be real waste. When I clean up at the end of the day it is simple what goes in the scrap bucket and what is trash.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
-
a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
This reference refers to the section of this chapter titled "Blade Projection".
Please note this section calls for a saw blade projection of only 1/4" to 3/8" above the surface of the board being cut. I have always been a believer in this set up, but have read many contrasting opinions of this low blade projection. One of the opposing views came from a blade manufacturer.
Here's the reasons I subscribe to the low blade projection operation: I believe it is much safer than a higher projection. A lower angle of tooth exit from the bottom of the wood will limit tear-out. At the lower angle of attack, each tooth will have less wood to cut as the piece is fed through the saw, causing less strain on each tooth and prolonging the sharpness of the blade.
I would like to read other's opinions.
Please note this section calls for a saw blade projection of only 1/4" to 3/8" above the surface of the board being cut. I have always been a believer in this set up, but have read many contrasting opinions of this low blade projection. One of the opposing views came from a blade manufacturer.
Here's the reasons I subscribe to the low blade projection operation: I believe it is much safer than a higher projection. A lower angle of tooth exit from the bottom of the wood will limit tear-out. At the lower angle of attack, each tooth will have less wood to cut as the piece is fed through the saw, causing less strain on each tooth and prolonging the sharpness of the blade.
I would like to read other's opinions.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
I was taught the same thing, Chuck. In another thread discussing this, I was one of the few, as I recall, that subscribed to this procedure. I almost always adjust the blade to this "proper" projection. There are occasions when I adjust the blade to have the maximum projection, but usually that happens with my circular saw, and for the reason that I am knot cutting all the way through, and want/need a "square" blade cut on the end of my cut. This usually occurs when I am meeting that cut in the middle of a piece of plywood with another such cut.charlese wrote:This reference refers to the section of this chapter titled "Blade Projection".
Please note this section calls for a saw blade projection of only 1/4" to 3/8" above the surface of the board being cut. I have always been a believer in this set up, but have read many contrasting opinions of this low blade projection. One of the opposing views came from a blade manufacturer.
Here's the reasons I subscribe to the low blade projection operation: I believe it is much safer than a higher projection. A lower angle of tooth exit from the bottom of the wood will limit tear-out. At the lower angle of attack, each tooth will have less wood to cut as the piece is fed through the saw, causing less strain on each tooth and prolonging the sharpness of the blade.
I would like to read other's opinions.
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Setting blade height, when I grew up we were told to set the blade height so the gullets were exposed. According to the thought of the day this provided the least splintering.
Later we were told that the blade would run cooler with less feed pressure if the blade was set high... smaller angle of attack. This was also going to help to reduce kick back as the blade is forcing the board against the table as it cuts... only to be told that the angle at the back of the board also is lifting it and thus making it worse only to be told the guard and anti kickback is mounted at the rear so not to worry. I bet a search of the net would give this and 50 other opinions.
We as large group of woodworkers have been lead this way and then that way, expert A says do it this way and expert B says that way. So I am total convinced no one really know what is really best/safest for all occasions. I mean think of all the variables, type of wood, grain direction, moisture content, type of blade, number of teeth, tooth angle, how sharp the blade is, feed rate, rpm, width of teeth, material of the teeth, angle of the teeth, fence setting, miter gauge setting, saw setup or lack of...
So comes the general rule that says keep the blade low as it is safer that way. So for beginners I'd say keep the exposure low. Anywhere from just cutting the surface to gullet depth is a good range in my opinion.
No matter what you do make sure you are guarded up, that is far more important then blade height. If you don't own the guards buy them, if you have them use them. Don't like the shopsmith ones? Buy someone else's or make your own.
Ed
Later we were told that the blade would run cooler with less feed pressure if the blade was set high... smaller angle of attack. This was also going to help to reduce kick back as the blade is forcing the board against the table as it cuts... only to be told that the angle at the back of the board also is lifting it and thus making it worse only to be told the guard and anti kickback is mounted at the rear so not to worry. I bet a search of the net would give this and 50 other opinions.
We as large group of woodworkers have been lead this way and then that way, expert A says do it this way and expert B says that way. So I am total convinced no one really know what is really best/safest for all occasions. I mean think of all the variables, type of wood, grain direction, moisture content, type of blade, number of teeth, tooth angle, how sharp the blade is, feed rate, rpm, width of teeth, material of the teeth, angle of the teeth, fence setting, miter gauge setting, saw setup or lack of...
So comes the general rule that says keep the blade low as it is safer that way. So for beginners I'd say keep the exposure low. Anywhere from just cutting the surface to gullet depth is a good range in my opinion.
No matter what you do make sure you are guarded up, that is far more important then blade height. If you don't own the guards buy them, if you have them use them. Don't like the shopsmith ones? Buy someone else's or make your own.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
ripping technique
"Never stand directly in front of or in back of the blade; always stand to one side or the other."
and
"Stand in front of the Mark V, on the opposite side of the blade than the rip fence. (This position will help you keep the stock pressed against the fence as you rip it.)"
Is this how everybody does it?
Figures 2-36 and 2-37 both show a rip cut with the operator standing to the left of the blade, rip fence to the right of the blade. BUT the operator has both hands on the work. Thus you are reaching across the blade with the right hand. In figure 2-37 the operator's body is very close to "in line with the blade". Figure 2-38 shows the same reach across using the fence straddler.
I'm new at this, but I find it awkward to reach across the blade and still keep my body out of line with the blade. Especially as you are pushing forward to move the work. Seems to me like it would be really, really easy to accidentally move your body over in line with the blade without being aware of it. Or at least, not immediately aware of it.
Just how far away from "in line with the blade" does your body have to be? Is the operator in figure 2-37 safe?
Can we assume that any kickbacks will be aimed absolutely straight back from the blade so that even being a couple of inches away from "in line with the blade" will be safe?
don
and
"Stand in front of the Mark V, on the opposite side of the blade than the rip fence. (This position will help you keep the stock pressed against the fence as you rip it.)"
Is this how everybody does it?
Figures 2-36 and 2-37 both show a rip cut with the operator standing to the left of the blade, rip fence to the right of the blade. BUT the operator has both hands on the work. Thus you are reaching across the blade with the right hand. In figure 2-37 the operator's body is very close to "in line with the blade". Figure 2-38 shows the same reach across using the fence straddler.
I'm new at this, but I find it awkward to reach across the blade and still keep my body out of line with the blade. Especially as you are pushing forward to move the work. Seems to me like it would be really, really easy to accidentally move your body over in line with the blade without being aware of it. Or at least, not immediately aware of it.
Just how far away from "in line with the blade" does your body have to be? Is the operator in figure 2-37 safe?
Can we assume that any kickbacks will be aimed absolutely straight back from the blade so that even being a couple of inches away from "in line with the blade" will be safe?
don