A rip cut is pretty straightforward and easy. However, sometimes when I rip a board, the board will sometimes separate or move to the left of the fence (about 1/8" to 3/16") after it passes the saw blade or on the out feed side of the ss. When I first see this starting to happen, I'll reach across the blade and force the board back against the fence (yes I'm careful and I know it can be dangerous). What i described above does not happen every time and does not effect the width of the cut along the length of the board. The ss model is a 510 with a complete 520 upgrade kit.
I probably should not be bothered by this, but it bugs me when I don't see the board traveling square to the fence. Is this operator error or is it the nature of a particular board? Has this happened to anyone else?
Bob
San Diego
Ptwfe Ch2
Moderator: admin
Not sure if this will help or not but when I rip a board, I used to push it parallel to the fence from behind the board. I did notice a tendancy for it to wander a little to the left. Now, I push the board forward more from the left corner instead of directly behind the board and am more able to keep it against the fence. I also make greater use of my feather board, positioning it just in front of the blade at a slight inward angle.
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
Things I would look at:
1. Blade and fence alignment
2. Feed from the left so you can put some pressure against the fence.
3. Wax the table so the wood slides a little easier.
4. Sharpen the blade or upgrade it to a higher quality.
1. Blade and fence alignment
2. Feed from the left so you can put some pressure against the fence.
3. Wax the table so the wood slides a little easier.
4. Sharpen the blade or upgrade it to a higher quality.
Dave - Idaho
Greenie S#261612 - Mar 1954 / Greenie S#305336 - Oct 1955 / Gray S#SS1360 - ?
"Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?"
Greenie S#261612 - Mar 1954 / Greenie S#305336 - Oct 1955 / Gray S#SS1360 - ?
"Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?"
Hi,
I would have to see just what is happening to be sure of what is going on. It could be a normal thing that happens with wood, when you are cutting you maybe releasing built in stresses which can result in the wood bending and twisting... not every piece but some may do this. As luck would have it you can see if that is the issue by taking a piece of MDF and ripping that. If you are still seeing the movement then addition forces are at work.
As it never hurts to check the alignment this is the best place to start and even if it is not the problem at least you can eliminate it. If you don't want to go through the whole process then at least make sure the blade is square to the table and the rip fence is parallel to the miter slots. Also make sure the splitter is aligned to the blade.
I would guess you are using either a rip blade or a comb blade however if you have a rip blade that is the best at rip cutting wood.
Other things to look for would be that everything is locked down before you start cutting. I'd also make sure the quill actually locks, I got a used machine that was missing a washer and while the lock was tight the quill still moved. Same with the other parts, if they are locked check to see they don't move.
I don't think the "reaching over" is a good idea so I think it would be be best to find the real problem if there is one and solve it.
It also could be how you are feeding the stock. Maybe take note of how you are pushing the stock, extra attention to that maybe all that is needed. Even practice with the blade down and guard off (shopsmith unplugged) to see what it takes to keep it square to the fence and what it takes to move it off the fence like you are seeing...
Ed
I would have to see just what is happening to be sure of what is going on. It could be a normal thing that happens with wood, when you are cutting you maybe releasing built in stresses which can result in the wood bending and twisting... not every piece but some may do this. As luck would have it you can see if that is the issue by taking a piece of MDF and ripping that. If you are still seeing the movement then addition forces are at work.
As it never hurts to check the alignment this is the best place to start and even if it is not the problem at least you can eliminate it. If you don't want to go through the whole process then at least make sure the blade is square to the table and the rip fence is parallel to the miter slots. Also make sure the splitter is aligned to the blade.
I would guess you are using either a rip blade or a comb blade however if you have a rip blade that is the best at rip cutting wood.
Other things to look for would be that everything is locked down before you start cutting. I'd also make sure the quill actually locks, I got a used machine that was missing a washer and while the lock was tight the quill still moved. Same with the other parts, if they are locked check to see they don't move.
I don't think the "reaching over" is a good idea so I think it would be be best to find the real problem if there is one and solve it.
It also could be how you are feeding the stock. Maybe take note of how you are pushing the stock, extra attention to that maybe all that is needed. Even practice with the blade down and guard off (shopsmith unplugged) to see what it takes to keep it square to the fence and what it takes to move it off the fence like you are seeing...
Ed
rdewinter wrote:A rip cut is pretty straightforward and easy. However, sometimes when I rip a board, the board will sometimes separate or move to the left of the fence (about 1/8" to 3/16") after it passes the saw blade or on the out feed side of the ss. When I first see this starting to happen, I'll reach across the blade and force the board back against the fence (yes I'm careful and I know it can be dangerous). What i described above does not happen every time and does not effect the width of the cut along the length of the board. The ss model is a 510 with a complete 520 upgrade kit.
I probably should not be bothered by this, but it bugs me when I don't see the board traveling square to the fence. Is this operator error or is it the nature of a particular board? Has this happened to anyone else?
Bob
San Diego
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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JPG
- Platinum Member
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You are probably pushing the piece being ripped from a location between the fence and the blade. Think of the front(cutting) edge of the blade as a pivot point. The piece being cut will tend to rotate about the front edge of the blade thus moving away from the fence at the back end of the blade. This rotational force must be over come by applying a counter force(push toward fence) or push from outer side of the blade.(until almost to the end of the cut, then the piece between fence and blade MUST be controlled). Either way, you must apply force to keep piece against the fence(not easy with a push stick!).
This problem is a good example why a riving knife is a good idea. A feather board back there is a better one!(very light touch)
This problem is a good example why a riving knife is a good idea. A feather board back there is a better one!(very light touch)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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a1gutterman
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Hi Bob,rdewinter wrote:A rip cut is pretty straightforward and easy. However, sometimes when I rip a board, the board will sometimes separate or move to the left of the fence (about 1/8" to 3/16") after it passes the saw blade or on the out feed side of the ss. When I first see this starting to happen, I'll reach across the blade and force the board back against the fence (yes I'm careful and I know it can be dangerous). What i described above does not happen every time and does not effect the width of the cut along the length of the board. The ss model is a 510 with a complete 520 upgrade kit.
I probably should not be bothered by this, but it bugs me when I don't see the board traveling square to the fence. Is this operator error or is it the nature of a particular board? Has this happened to anyone else?
Bob
San Diego
All of what others have said is valid. I have had similar experiences and I believe that in all such cases for me, it has been operator error. I have found that using a feather board is very helpful, but sometimes that is not an easy set up for larger boards. For larger boards, I just pay very good attention to the leading edge of the board where it slides along the fence, and make adjustments with how I am applying pressure. I hope this helps.
Tim
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