Shopsmith Forums

Don't know why it took me so long to figure this out - apologies to those who already have.

Before sliding the saw table over the saw blade to change or remove the blade I used to crank the table up until the tubes disengaged from the crank teeth and started clanking, or tried to eyeball the clearance. Discovered it's much easier just to put a finger on the bottom of the near tube and raise the table until the bottom of the tube is flush with the bottom of the carriage. Don't have to look and works every time.

I have used the one handed audio method for 60 years!

Matanuska,

Sounds like a simple way to raise the table for clearance without going too far.

Discovered it's much easier just to put a finger on the bottom of the near tube and raise the table until the bottom of the tube is flush with the bottom of the carriage. Don't have to look and works every time.

The other way you were doing it (quote below) may cause damage to the Carriage Pinions wearing down the gear teeth.

I used to crank the table up until the tubes disengaged from the crank teeth and started clanking,

Yep - it always bothered me when I misjudged and cranked too far.

I've always just eyeballed it. Crank until the blade disappears from sight and I'm clear. Same when moving the table back. I just eyeball it.

I don't know if all "500's" are the same, but IIRC the position needed for clearance on my Greenie is much closer to the one that causes clanking compared to a 520. I eyeball it now, used to stop when it clanked on the Greenie.

- David

DLB wrote: ↑Sun Sep 11, 2022 8:57 am I don't know if all "500's" are the same, but IIRC the position needed for clearance on my Greenie is much closer to the one that causes clanking compared to a 520. I eyeball it now, used to stop when it clanked on the Greenie.

- David

I'd need to go to the shop to verify (and it's pouring rain ATM) but I think you're right -- if the table is much lower than clanking on my Greenie then the table doesn't clear the blade. Perhaps when redesigning the table system they also decided to address that problem as well.

The method suggested doesn't work on my 1986 Model 500--there is still about 5/8" of the 10" blade showing above the table surface.

Keith

I don't currently own a Mark V 500 or earlier original table system Mark 5 to try it on. I do have parts and checked the length of the Table Posts I have. The 500/original posts are 11" long while 505/510/520 Table Posts are 14" long. That in itself could be the difference in the ability to use Matanuska's suggestion. One Mark V I restored had damage to the Carriage Pinions and raising the table up until the tubes disengaged may have contributed to the damaged teeth on the Carriage Pinions. Hard to say.

Audible method needs to be "gentle".

I have not tried the finger approach(yet).