Restoration Progress On My 1955 Greenie
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Mike, congratulations!
It is more than a machine, it is a work of art. Makes me proud to be an American and see not only the fine products we once produced, but that some still have that spirit.
Gadz, I leave town for a month or so and you do it ALL, and then some.
Again, congrats are in order!
It is more than a machine, it is a work of art. Makes me proud to be an American and see not only the fine products we once produced, but that some still have that spirit.
Gadz, I leave town for a month or so and you do it ALL, and then some.
Again, congrats are in order!
Anniversary Model 505 to 520 Up grade, with Band saw, Jointer, Strip & Belt Sander, and a catalog of wishes.
Mike, I see that you have done a beautiful job in restoring your 1955 greenie SS. I have the same type and would like to know what the paint is that you used. I tried to match mine at the paint store but the colors are not the same. Could you list the brand, and mixing codes for the paints on the SS. I need the silver on the headstock and the green on the rest. Can I paint it on with a brush, I don't have a sprayer. Thanks, Barry
- jcraigie
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- Location: Fowlerville, Michigan
I believe I used the same paint on mine and it was the rust o leum hammered paints. The green is Verde Green which is sometimes hard to find (hint HomeDepot will let you order it online and deliver it to your house) the silver is just that hammered silver.bshaff wrote:Mike, I see that you have done a beautiful job in restoring your 1955 greenie SS. I have the same type and would like to know what the paint is that you used. I tried to match mine at the paint store but the colors are not the same. Could you list the brand, and mixing codes for the paints on the SS. I need the silver on the headstock and the green on the rest. Can I paint it on with a brush, I don't have a sprayer. Thanks, Barry
Prime vs not prime is another debatable story. I primed mine and I like the way it turned out.
1984 Mark V 500 and an early 1954 greenie. jointer, belt sander, bandsaw, jigsaw, planner.
Jeff
Jeff
- JPG
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That is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!jcraigie wrote:I believe I used the same paint on mine and it was the rust o leum hammered paints. The green is Verde Green which is sometimes hard to find (hint HomeDepot will let you order it online and deliver it to your house) the silver is just that hammered silver.
Prime vs not prime is another debatable story. I primed mine and I like the way it turned out.
Where you at Mike?????? You OK????
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
"Self etching" primer on aluminum parts(ok for steel also). I find it at auto parts store. Dries FAST!!!!jcraigie wrote:Just don't use the rusty metal primer on the SS, bad juju.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The full line of Hammered Rustoleum paints are available at my local WalMart stores in North Texas. You might try there.
Be sure to search the forum for advice on painting with this stuff. There are several good threads on it. Use the keyword "hammered". I just don't have the time right now to find them.
My Goldie has been painted for a couple of months now and after just handling the parts, not even running the machine, the parts that I used self etching primer on before paint are not fairing as well as those that I didn't prime. I'm getting flakes and it chips easily over that primer. But I'm using Hammered Gold and Hammered Copper. There may be a bit of difference in adherence depending upon the tint. The instructions on the can say no primer.
Definitely test it on some cardboard before you start applying to the metal to get a feel for it. It took me four cans of gold and two cans of copper. The greenie has more green than the goldie has gold, proportionately, so it may take you a different ratio. Maybe five green to one silver but if I were you I would get two cans of silver for that headstock.
Good luck and post lots of pictures on your own thread. Here's mine.
Be sure to search the forum for advice on painting with this stuff. There are several good threads on it. Use the keyword "hammered". I just don't have the time right now to find them.
My Goldie has been painted for a couple of months now and after just handling the parts, not even running the machine, the parts that I used self etching primer on before paint are not fairing as well as those that I didn't prime. I'm getting flakes and it chips easily over that primer. But I'm using Hammered Gold and Hammered Copper. There may be a bit of difference in adherence depending upon the tint. The instructions on the can say no primer.
Definitely test it on some cardboard before you start applying to the metal to get a feel for it. It took me four cans of gold and two cans of copper. The greenie has more green than the goldie has gold, proportionately, so it may take you a different ratio. Maybe five green to one silver but if I were you I would get two cans of silver for that headstock.
Good luck and post lots of pictures on your own thread. Here's mine.
I have been using self-etching primer on bare aluminum headstocks and parts before using the Hammered paint. I find if I bake the Rusteolum Hammered paints at 200 degrees for about an hour, it helps prevent chipping when assembling the parts. This does not work for other brands of paint. I use a stripped electric stove (no burners, only oven working) on casters for this and for baking various Power Coatings.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- JPG
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Interesting! I have tried both ways. I think I prefer the un-stripped, paint over old paint the best(requires less heavy 'finish' coat(s)). Really like primer for internal surfaces!!!!ddvann79 wrote:The full line of Hammered Rustoleum paints are available at my local WalMart stores in North Texas. You might try there.
Be sure to search the forum for advice on painting with this stuff. There are several good threads on it. Use the keyword "hammered". I just don't have the time right now to find them.
My Goldie has been painted for a couple of months now and after just handling the parts, not even running the machine, the parts that I used self etching primer on before paint are not fairing as well as those that I didn't prime. I'm getting flakes and it chips easily over that primer. But I'm using Hammered Gold and Hammered Copper. There may be a bit of difference in adherence depending upon the tint. The instructions on the can say no primer.
Definitely test it on some cardboard before you start applying to the metal to get a feel for it. It took me four cans of gold and two cans of copper. The greenie has more green than the goldie has gold, proportionately, so it may take you a different ratio. Maybe five green to one silver but if I were you I would get two cans of silver for that headstock.
Good luck and post lots of pictures on your own thread. Here's mine.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- mickyd
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Been working my wazzoski off!! Praise the Lord for a job, especially a VERY BUSY one!!! Much going on. My stool project (currently only a one-legged stool), is still seasoning out in the shop. :-) Got some time coming up shortly though.JPG40504 wrote:That is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!
Where you at Mike?????? You OK????
Mike
Sunny San Diego
Sunny San Diego