Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:That is the paint he used! I believe he primed it also!

Where you at Mike?????? You OK????

Oops....didn't read the message close enough. I primed EVERYTHING except the aluminum parts indicated in this post. So far they are holding up fine BUT....I don't have enough abusive miles on them to make a conclusion.

Thanks for the info on the paint. I made the mistake of using paint that I matched at a paint store and painted my whole shopsmith with a brush. Then I got on this sight and saw how it should have been done from Mike. My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?

Thanks, Barry

bshaff wrote: My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?

Thanks, Barry

Barry deep down you know the answer to this question. Welcome to the forum and get to stripping.

Citrusstrip!!!!!

bshaff wrote:...My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?

Barry, I'm less inclined to suggest stripping your new paint if you feel like you got good adhesion with the brushed-on paint. If you don't feel like stripping the whole thing (I highly recommend Citrustrip) you might get away with wet-dry sanding the brush strokes out of the paint and then apply the Rustoleum spray paint. First, most of those castings (except maybe the miter gauge and trunnion) should be fine with three or four coats of paint without looking thick. Second, the Rustoleum would likely only require one coat. Primer would not be necessary. However, sanding that much paint may be just slightly less work than stripping the whole thing. It will also depend on how thickly you applied the brushed-on paint.

The instructionsstate "Preparation: Remove loose paint and rust with a wire brush or sandpaper. Lightly sand glossy surfaces. Clean with soap and water, rinse and let dry."

If you chose to go this route, I would suggest testing an area like the inside of one of the legs and see how it works. Maybe sand off an area and lay on a coat of Hammered Verde Green and by morning you should have a pretty good idea of whether that's the route you want to take.

I think you will definitely be pleased with the result of the Rustoleum product.

bshaff wrote:Thanks for the info on the paint. I made the mistake of using paint that I matched at a paint store and painted my whole shopsmith with a brush. Then I got on this sight and saw how it should have been done from Mike. My question is do I have to strip all the paint back off and start over or can I get the correct paint and just paint over what I have already done?

Thanks, Barry

The purist mickyd says..................'Paint over it!!' (My standards are going down the tubes since I've been so busy lately!!)

Thanks for all the help. I think I will try some on the inside of the leg first and see how it turns out. I sure don't like the idea of stripping it all off. I will have to completely tear it all down again in order to paint it properly so that will be enough work.

One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.

Barry

bshaff wrote:Thanks for all the help. I think I will try some on the inside of the leg first and see how it turns out. I sure don't like the idea of stripping it all off. I will have to completely tear it all down again in order to paint it properly so that will be enough work.

One more question: I have recently rebuilt the headstock but did not change the bearings in the motor. How would I tell if they needed to be changed. Now when it runs it sounds like the shaft is turning on sand. I have had this machine for some time and used it with no problem. The people I got it from took excellent care of it. Any info will be helpful. If I am going to tear it all apart again I need to know if I should go ahead and change the bearing.

Barry

How freely/smoothly does the motor shaft turn by hand? It should be vibration free and exhibit a slight drag(internal grease). If 'gritty', rough, or too free, replacing them would be indicated.

ddvann79 wrote:Barry, I'm less inclined to suggest stripping your new paint if you feel ........

If you chose to go this route, I would suggest testing an area like the inside of one of the legs and see how it works. Maybe sand off an area and lay on a coat of Hammered Verde Green and by morning you should have a pretty good idea of whether that's the route you want to take.

I think you will definitely be pleased with the result of the Rustoleum product.

The Amazon link showing $12 per can is WAY overpriced. I can get it for less than $5 a can here in San Diego. If you can't get single cans at your local Home Depot, buy their 6-pack for $30.

mickyd wrote:The Amazon link showing $12 per can is WAY overpriced. I can get it for less than $5 a can here in San Diego. If you can't get single cans at your local Home Depot, buy their 6-pack for $30.

Agreed, but if he can't find Verde Green locally, he'll have to source it elsewhere.