Shopsmith Forums

.... one other thing. I let it cool outside so my total kitchen time was under 10 minutes.

-Erik

Erik wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 2:05 pm RFGuy,

The melting process took about 6-7 minutes. Since it was all ready in a metal can, I simply put it on the the smallest burner at the lowest setting (if you are nervous about this approach you could use a double boiler with water -- I wax skis a lot during the winter and so am comfortable melting wax). Most of it melted in a couple of minutes and all of it was dissolved by about minute 5. There was virtually no smell because I deliberately kept the temperature low so that the wax didn't smoke. I did, however, do it when my wife was out running errands . She was none the wiser about my kitchen project -- and she has a great nose --so I know that it did not create any lingering odor (she was gone for about 1 hour).

-Erik

Erik,

Thanks. That isn't too bad. I just know as soon as I open the can, the solvent smell fills my small shop and is overwhelming even for normal Mark V maintenance. I was going to do it outside and use my little camping stove to heat it up to try to keep from smelling up the shop so much. Thanks again.

I melt wax in the oven set to warm. It takes a while but I don't have to watch. I checked the temperature before I did it the first time to be sure the temperature was below the flash point of the wax. I don't think I would try melting wax with solvent in it using this method.

rlkeeney wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 3:15 pm I melt wax in the oven set to warm. It takes a while but I don't have to watch. I checked the temperature before I did it the first time to be sure the temperature was below the flash point of the wax. I don't think I would try melting wax with solvent in it using this method.

Robert,

Good point. I was going to do it outside with a camping stove, but with the exposed burner probably not a good idea as you mention. I think I am going to try the paint stirrer method just to see how it turns out for comparison to heating it. Don't really want to do it in the oven due to the smell in the house. Since they replaced this can that leaked for free...it isn't really a problem if I mess it up. Although getting it to the consistency that I want would be nice to effectively lower the per unit price since I had to pay more for it to begin with. Thanks.

It seems to me that Johnson's wax isn't worth the cost or hassle of keeping it in usable condition.
I've been using a can of Trewax since the 1980s, and after 30+ years of sitting around, sometimes in temperatures well below freezing in Winter and around 100 degrees in Summer, it still retains its original texture and condition. If Johnson's wax can't do that, you can simply replace it with Trewax from your local Ace Hardware.
This is what it looks like after 30+ years.

Gary,

Good to know. Yeah, I have never had an issue (in the past) with JPW. I am still using a couple of cans that I bought many, many years ago and they are fine. What I was discussing on this thread was I bought a new can and in shipment (or before shipment) it separated and became an applesauce like mess. The company replaced it for free with a new can that was perfect and still in suspension. I was trying to decide on the best method to remake the emulsion for what is left in the compromised can so it doesn't go to waste. Thanks. In other 20 years or so when I exhaust my JPW inventory, I will be sure to pickup a can of Trewax.

I have never had Johnson's Paste wax go bad.

I have a can of Butchers Wax, aka Bowling Alley Wax that I bought at an old Channel Lumber store in the late 70's, and it's still good. I've used about 2/3 of it in the 45 years or so it's hung about my basement. Amazon sells it for about $30 for a 1 lb tin - I paid $5.69 for mine (the price sticker is still on it). It works fine on the SS.

Trewax smells better!

JPG wrote: ↑Sat Nov 05, 2022 7:46 am Trewax smells better!

Like trees, I'll bet?