Long Cross Cut / Squaring Question

[KCollins]

So I have a 3/4" x 30" by 52" walnut panel. When I glued it I did not get my edges straight so my boards are slightly staggered. Like 1/16 of an inch or so. My rough cut is 52" but my final cut is 51". So I have an inch to play with. How would you guys recommend me getting a square cut along one of those edges so I can squarely cut the other side?

[DLB]

I presume we're talking cutting this on a Mark, I imagine many are thinking 'perfect job for a track saw.' IIWM I'd try the guide strip method. Clamp, tack, or two-sided tape a piece of stock square on one of the uneven ends and use that piece against a rip fence to cut the other end parallel to the fence. Then use that end against the fence and finish the other. (Full disclosure - I haven't had occasion to do this on that large of a piece.)

- David

[RFGuy]

I presume we're talking cutting this on a Mark, I imagine many are thinking 'perfect job for a track saw.' IIWM I'd try the guide strip method. Clamp, tack, or two-sided tape a piece of stock square on one of the uneven ends and use that piece against a rip fence to cut the other end parallel to the fence. Then use that end against the fence and finish the other. (Full disclosure - I haven't had occasion to do this on that large of a piece.)

- David

David,

Good suggestion...yeah I was waiting for someone else to comment first. My suggestion was going to be to use a track saw if you have one because they excel at exactly this kind of task. That size panel isn't too large, but still unwieldy enough that it may be difficult to get a clean cut without any burn marks on the Mark V. Not saying it can't be done, and I am sure many SS owners have done so before, but it isn't fun to do given the short depth of the main table on the Mark V and having to setup extension tables.

Even if you don't have a tracksaw you can still do it with a regular old circular saw and a board/guard rail butted up against it. Just make sure you have a good quality blade in it or you will be doing a lot of sanding and cleanup afterwards.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Yep, I’m in the track saw camp on this one. Given the workpiece size and aspect ratio, the only way I’d try that cut on a Mark V is with a monster crosscut sled like J.S. Burger’s. John, can your sled handle a workpiece this large?

If I didn’t have a track saw or a monster sled, I’d make the cut with a router. Just clamp a straight guide board across tbe end of the panel, square and at the appropriate offset distance, and run the router base against it. I’d also clamp a backup board against the workpiece edge where the router bit will exit, to prevent blow-out.

RFGuy just posted this idea while I was typing, but if I didn’t have a router, I’d make a DIY guide track for a circular saw. With a good blade, this is arguably a better tool for the job than a router. But it’s also more work, unless you already have the track.

[KCollins]

Good stuff guys thanks. I hadn't thought of using a router or circular saw... There would be way more control with kind of set up. Thanks for the suggestions.

[RFGuy]

The size and weight of that kind of panel make it quite precarious to cut on a Mark V. Can it be done? Yes. Can it be done safely? Debatable. It sounds like you need to square the ends so a crosscut sled is ideal but just feeding it into the small main table is a challenge. Even a decent size, dedicated table saw would be a bit tricky, though easy on a big sliding tablesaw machine. You could also try to rip it (with adjustment to the one end to make it square) but be very careful with this because it doesn't take much to get the panel out of alignment and produce a kickback event. I forgot about using a router and that is a great suggestion. Safest approaches in my mind are tracksaw, circular saw + straight edge or router + straight edge. Good luck. Stay safe.

P.S. You need something like this if you want to cut that size panel safely on a Mark V:
viewtopic.php?p=188041#p188041

[bainin]

That 1/16 lip might provide a guide to run along the outside table edge..though it seems a bit thin. You could add a straight edge
on the bottom of your board and use the table itself as the guide.

Like this :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V-9h3mDN0k

b

[chapmanruss]

KCollins,

As others have already suggested I believe a track saw or circular saw and straight edge would be the best way to go for the length of the panel you are working with. Even though I can do the setup RFGuy shows in the picture above I would not try cutting it that way as my first option. Too easy to get that large a piece out of alignment. I have a circular saw and straight edge guide I would go to first. If I was cutting the 30" to width than I would go with the Shopsmith.

[jsburger]

Yep, I’m in the track saw camp on this one. Given the workpiece size and aspect ratio, the only way I’d try that cut on a Mark V is with a monster crosscut sled like J.S. Burger’s. John, can your sled handle a workpiece this large?

If I didn’t have a track saw or a monster sled, I’d make the cut with a router. Just clamp a straight guide board across tbe end of the panel, square and at the appropriate offset distance, and run the router base against it. I’d also clamp a backup board against the workpiece edge where the router bit will exit, to prevent blow-out.

RFGuy just posted this idea while I was typing, but if I didn’t have a router, I’d make a DIY guide track for a circular saw. With a good blade, this is arguably a better tool for the job than a router. But it’s also more work, unless you already have the track.

Yes it can. With the blade raised just enough for 3/4" stock it will do 33" wide panels.

[Hobbyman2]

my vote is a saw and a guide . I would use a knife line if you need to be exact . stay off the line just about 1/64 or so and then sand or use a hand plane and take it down to the line like old school if you want to show off your skills ?? :}