Shopsmith Forums

Hi folks. It's a mid-'50s shopsmith, old enough to have the hole behind the plate for maintenance. Green. I watched the sawdust videos and learned how to take it apart, but I can't "pop" the quill out like he does. I pulled that springy ring thing out the other side, extended the quill as far as it'll go, and it remains immovable. Dang this quill. What am I missing?

Also, I was really good about not moving the speed knob, but then my neighbor's kid comes over and, as she's turning it all around, says, "What's this." I guess it doesn't matter now, but when I put it back together, how do I make sure everything's aligned.

Thanks for your help, and be forewarned: I am very new to this.

Let me add that I didn't forget to back the setscrew out, and, curiously, my shopsmith doesn't have a long handle thing -- just a huge wingnut on the quill backer thing (and another huge wingnut on the other side).

Hi,

Before we get to far into this let me say don't do anything more until this is explained to you.

First you really need to get the "long handle thing", the quill is spring loaded and if you just pop it out the spring is going to rewind and perhaps even break itself. The spring needs to be unwound and the long handle thing is needed for that....

Ed

I'll order one.

Another question: once I have it disassembled and cleaned, what do I lube (wax?) it with? And what do I need to lube? (The sawdust session talks about lacquer on the metal to stave off rust but that's it.)

Hello Edward - Being adequately forewarned, I'll submit this:

The big wing nut on the back of the headstock is called the Feed Stop Handle. The huge wing nut on the front (upper part of the headstock) is named the Quill Lock Handle. You should find their names, engraved on the wings. You may have to look closely.

I Hope the springy thing you removed was the Logo Cover located on the back side of the headstock.

Can you try to explain your situation again, using the SS given names to the parts? I know that's tough, but here's a guide for you. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... 0_1_14.pdf Page down to pages 6 and 7 for an exploded diagram of the headstock and a listing of those parts.

Let's hope the neighbor girl didn't turn the speed control with any force. You have already learned a good safety lesson about woodworking tools. Don't let kids (and grownups for that matter) un-supervised and un-cautioned around your machine.

Like Ed (reible) said, let's get a handle on the quill feed pinion before doing any thing more with the quill. You might be able to fashion a make shift handle by putting a PADDED vice grip on the end of the pinion.

edward wrote:I'll order one.

Another question: once I have it disassembled and cleaned, what do I lube (wax?) it with? And what do I need to lube? (The sawdust session talks about lacquer on the metal to stave off rust but that's it.)

Do you have rust? Where? Can you post a photo? It's a little early to talk about lubrication. Let's get your stuck quill loosened first.

No apparent rust. I got the quill off. Used padded vice grips. Thanks.

Now it's all disassembled.

The power cord was cracked, so I picked up a new one (but I forgot to buy the thing that stabilizes it in the sheet metal).

The bearings on the Drive Sleeve Assembly are bad, so can I take this to a machinist? Do I have to buy a new one? I am poor and don't like throwing things away...

Quill is a little wobbly. Probably single-bearing, but hard to tell. Again, machinist or new one (what do these sell for?)?

Teeth look really good on the speed changer.

Bearings feel good on the Idler Shaft. Sheaves look good now -- just need cleaning, I think. I think I need a new drive belt because this one's frayed. But the other belt (not Poly-V -- has teeth) looks great.

I CANNOT turn the screws that hold the motor. Tried WD-40. Twice.

CLEANING & REASSEMBLY

I have mineral spirits, scotchbrite, brass and nylon brushes, and a thing of Turtle "cleaner wax." What else do I need?

Thanks for all the help, folks.

edward wrote:. . . I think I need a new drive belt because this one's frayed. But the other belt (not Poly-V -- has teeth) looks great.

I CANNOT turn the screws that hold the motor. Tried WD-40. Twice.

The 'motor drive belt' being 'frayed' is not a likely problem. Wear of the belt to a width of less than 7/16" (measured at the outer larger width edge) is an indication to replace it. Not a bad idea to replace it ANYWAY.

The motor mounting screws are usually #3 Phillips. Most folks do NOT have the proper screwdriver for these. Yes phillips screws/drivers come in different sizes with the #2 being the most common and the #1 next. This is where "p1", "p2", px come from. Do NOT try to loosen these bolts without the proper screwdriver! You do NOT want to 'booger up' the screw heads.

Good Luck and keep up the good work you are doing.

I want to second what beeg said! Don't use the turtle wax cleaner.

Mineral spirits should do most of the cleaning for you as you have no rust. Use Johnson's original formula paste wax on the outside of the quill and also treat the hole where it slides in, with wax. This is a standard wax for all exposed parts of the mark V. Automobile products don't work well here! Remember to buff well!

One of those metal bolt/nut loosening agents will help free up the screws that hold the motor. Ask a local mechanic or parts store. They work MUCH better than WD-40 for this purpose. Also a little metal to metal contact will help to free up a bolt. You can use a flat punch and light ball pien hammer to rap the top of the screw/bolt.