Shopsmith Forums

Hi I’m new to the group with my first post. This past year I got a shopsmith 10E S#ER14172 from my brother in law he didn’t want it.
I’m working on cleaning it up. The tubes are a little rusty I got them cleaned up pretty good. The one thing that I’m confused on is it a
10E or a 10ER. I have been looking online for manual’s and down loaded both. In the manuals I have been looking at has one belt this
machine I have has two with a couple pulley’s in the middle with some adjustment by turning a lever. If someone could help me out to figure this out would be great.
Thank you

The dual belt one simply has an optional speed changer. The speed changer will work with either a 10E or a 10ER.

A simple method to determine which you have, is to post a picture of it.

We will be looking at the rip fence, the quill return spring housing, the miter gauge, the tailstock casting, the aux table as well as some other details..

I will have to figure out how to post pictures first. I have some pictures before I took it all apart for cleaning and painting. It is getting paint in a couple days.

I will have to figure out how to post pictures first. I have some pictures before I took it all apart for cleaning and painting. It is getting paint in a couple days.
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58700
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58701
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58702
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58703
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58704

BOTTOM, DRIVE SLEEVE END, BACK SIDE IS INTERESTING, BUT FRONT WOULD BE MORE ENLIGHTENING. ALSO MITER GAUGE. RIP FENCE, TAILSTOCK WOULD BE MORE SO.

LarryG,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. Shopsmith Model 10E serial number ER14172 was made in the Eastern Plant probably around the end of 1948 (best guess). It should be a Model 10E as is shown on the Logo/Serial Number Plate on the front of the Headstock. Your plate should look like the one shown below but with your serial number. Note the Model Number on the lower left side.

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As JPG said the reason for the two belts is you have the optional Speed Changer. This is a sought-after option that generally costs quite a bit to buy on the used market. Just for your reference the Speed Changer uses a 22" and a 25" belt. If you want to use your Shopsmith without the Speed Changer, as it came from the factory, it uses a 38" belt and can need a 39" belt to use some of the extra fixed speeds. The Model 10's were advertised as a three-speed tool but by realigning the pulleys you can have 7 fixed speeds. The chart below covers those 7 speeds.

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The PDF of the Manual below covers the use of the Speed Changer.
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I am guessing here, since it was not shown in your pictures, but if you have the Metal Extension Table, as I suspect you do, the Model 10ER Owner's Guide will cover the operation of your Model 10E better than earlier Model 10E Owner's Guides which show the Wood Extension Table. Depending on the edition of the Model 10ER Owner's Guide you have (I know of 11) parts may be different than yours as shown in the parts diagrams.

Thank you this is very helpful. Yes that plate looks just like that one. Here is some more pictures. My plate is covered with tape at this moment for painting. Some of my pictures are to big in size it says.

download/file.php?mode=view&id=58708
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58709
download/file.php?mode=view&id=58710

It appears you have a 10ER

LarryG,

Before you paint the Headstock, I would recommend removing the Quill Assembly, Drive Sleeve Assembly, Pinion Gear Assembly and Quill Lock. Basically, take off all the parts that can come off. It will make it much easier to paint leaving only the space under the Logo/Serial Number Plate unpainted. Having these parts out of the Headstock will also allow you to assess their condition including the bearings in the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assemblies.

Your Headstock is the 4th version and your Shopsmith has the metal Extension Table. JPG is calling your Model 10E a 10ER. At the time the designation of 10E changed to 10ER there was little difference between them. It has been debated before about what makes these tools a Model 10E or a Model 10ER. As I said there was little difference at the time of the change, so some believe when there was more of a major change, they became Model 10ER's even though they still said Model 10E. As for myself, I have gone with the Model indicated on the Logo/Serial Number Plate. Even that presents a problem in the Model designation since the Plate itself went from Model 10E to Model ER not 10ER as they actually should be called. This too has created confusion as to what Model Shopsmith someone has. It wasn't until later when the Logo/Serial Number Plate was redesigned that it actually said Model 10ER. To add to the debate there have only been Model 10E and Model 10ER Owner's Guides. None for Model ER. The Owner's Guides I have seen for the Model 10E only include the Wood Extension Table. This is why I recommend owners of later Model 10E Shopsmith's to download the PDF of one or get a copy of the Model 10ER Owner's Guide for the operation of their Model 10E. There are operational differences between using the Wood Extension Table as opposed to the Metal Extension Table and their related parts.

From Russ
Before you paint the Headstock, I would recommend removing the Quill Assembly, Drive Sleeve Assembly, Pinion Gear Assembly and Quill Lock. Basically, take off all the parts that can come off. It will make it much easier to paint leaving only the space under the Logo/Serial Number Plate unpainted. Having these parts out of the Headstock will also allow you to assess their condition including the bearings in the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assemblies.

I’m unsure of taking the total assembly apart. If I seen some instructions on how to start and finish I would. Getting the bearings out seems to be a bit of a challenge if I don’t know the proper way to take it apart. I would like to replace the bearings at this time.