Shopsmith Forums

john_001 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 4:06 pm Woodsmith Shop had a show on making lidded canisters with threaded lids, and they cut the threads, male and female, using a router jig. Building the jig is some work, but it can be used to cut threads on work pieces of any size. This web page https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/sho ... canisters/ has a video showing how the jig works and an offer for plans - or search for woodsmith shop threading jig.

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Thanks ,,,
That appears to be a solid built jig , one thing that could be a issue for a chop for a bench vise is the thread depth and thread count , between 2 and 4 threads per inch was what I have been told is the best , it makes for faster clamping and a beefy thread . I had a opportunity to buy a vise screw 2 years ago but it had some chip out in the threads ,it was a 6 thread per inch , the guy said had it been 2 or 4 thread per inch it probably wouldn't have chipped out . finding the threaded rod for the thread count to fit that jig could present another issue .

Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 4:39 pm ------------------
Thanks ,,,
That appears to be a solid built jig , one thing that could be a issue for a chop for a bench vise is the thread depth and thread count , between 2 and 4 threads per inch was what I have been told is the best , it makes for faster clamping and a beefy thread . I had a opportunity to buy a vise screw 2 years ago but it had some chip out in the threads ,it was a 6 thread per inch , the guy said had it been 2 or 4 thread per inch it probably wouldn't have chipped out . finding the threaded rod for the thread count to fit that jig could present another issue .

The Woodsmith router method looks a bit better than the Beall method to me, but then again I have never tried to cut wood threads. Below is an interesting comment on the Beall setup that was in the article that I posted before. Main point, I believe, is that router setup can be tricky with it, but once you have it dialed in, it works beautifully. It seems like the Woodsmith approach is more iterative in nature so you'll be taking multiple passes, but that also lets you refine the fit of the threads more.

Excerpt from this website: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2015/03/1 ... ing-tools/
I purchased the Big Threader by Beall Tool Co. a couple years ago to try it out. It works brilliantly, but you need a router to power it. And setting the cut is fussy to get the results you want. It’s a lot like a router-powered dovetail jig in that once you get it set up, it’s brilliant. But the setup is a pain when you want to make one or two threaded rods.

It really is unfortunate that you can't just rent or borrow one of the Dieter Schmid tap & die sets. I like the idea of making wood threads without the "V" point, i.e. squared off thread peaks. My guess is that wood screws created with this method would be a lot smoother and easier movement (less binding). Should also hold up better for wear.

Excerpt from this website: https://blog.lostartpress.com/2015/03/1 ... ing-tools/
The nice thing about the threader is it makes threads with a square tip – not triangular. These square, acme-like threads are more durable. The downside to the threader is that it leaves a 1-1/2” long area of a handle unthreaded, as you can see in the photo above. This is caused by the long collar of the threader. The long collar improves the accuracy of the tool, so it’s a trade-off.

Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 4:39 pm ...That appears to be a solid built jig , one thing that could be a issue for a chop for a bench vise is the thread depth and thread count , between 2 and 4 threads per inch was what I have been told is the best , it makes for faster clamping and a beefy thread . I had a opportunity to buy a vise screw 2 years ago but it had some chip out in the threads ,it was a 6 thread per inch , the guy said had it been 2 or 4 thread per inch it probably wouldn't have chipped out . finding the threaded rod for the thread count to fit that jig could present another issue .

Perhaps the jig plan could be altered to use multi-start threaded rod for more linear travel per rotation.(?) McMaster-Carr has many to choose from. (https://www.mcmaster.com/multiple-start-rods/). They also have normal Acme thread down to 4 TPI.

- David

DLB wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 6:33 pm

Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 4:39 pm ...That appears to be a solid built jig , one thing that could be a issue for a chop for a bench vise is the thread depth and thread count , between 2 and 4 threads per inch was what I have been told is the best , it makes for faster clamping and a beefy thread . I had a opportunity to buy a vise screw 2 years ago but it had some chip out in the threads ,it was a 6 thread per inch , the guy said had it been 2 or 4 thread per inch it probably wouldn't have chipped out . finding the threaded rod for the thread count to fit that jig could present another issue .

Perhaps the jig plan could be altered to use multi-start threaded rod for more linear travel per rotation.(?) McMaster-Carr has many to choose from. (https://www.mcmaster.com/multiple-start-rods/). They also have normal Acme thread down to 4 TPI.

- David

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was looking forward to the challenge but metal rods may be the way to go .

The Woodsmith video uses a 5 tpi acme all-thread rod. The router bit is a double-bevel metal cutting bit, which makes V-shaped threads; but I guess you could make acme thread by using some sort of slot cutter bit. Getting the right size would be tricky. Unlike V threads, where you can control the width of the threads by adjusting the depth of cut, the slot cutter would make a fixed width that would have to match the pitch of the threads.

john_001 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 26, 2022 10:12 pm The Woodsmith video uses a 5 tpi acme all-thread rod. The router bit is a double-bevel metal cutting bit, which makes V-shaped threads; but I guess you could make acme thread by using some sort of slot cutter bit. Getting the right size would be tricky. Unlike V threads, where you can control the width of the threads by adjusting the depth of cut, the slot cutter would make a fixed width that would have to match the pitch of the threads.

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Good point .

This thread (Ha!) jogged my memory. I was pretty sure that Roy Underhill in one of his books gave details on making a tap and die for large wooden screws, so I had a look, and sure enough, he devoted a whole chapter to the subject, covering both large and small sizes. Its Chapter Three in "The Woodwright's Workbook." Looks like quite a project, though, especially if you are only going to use the die one time.

edflorence wrote: ↑Tue Dec 27, 2022 11:59 pm This thread (Ha!) jogged my memory. I was pretty sure that Roy Underhill in one of his books gave details on making a tap and die for large wooden screws, so I had a look, and sure enough, he devoted a whole chapter to the subject, covering both large and small sizes. Its Chapter Three in "The Woodwright's Workbook." Looks like quite a project, though, especially if you are only going to use the die one time.

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you are right it looks like a major project. this guy made a jig that doesnt look too complicated , https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZmnGLpqAGI I may have to try it just for the insight ,, I think I have a few tree limbs in the fire wood pile and plenty of scraps .