Loose Jointer Head

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rcsaylor
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Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:04 pm

Loose Jointer Head

Post by rcsaylor »

Joint head came loose while using. One of the two bolts under joint head. I purchased joint used, have used four or five times. I believe the previous owner had replaced some parts on the joint head. So my question is how do I align the head, how tight should the boults be, blue Loctite?
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MikeG
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by MikeG »

There should be lock-washers on the two bolts that hold the cutter head in place no Loctite required. The vertical head alignment is from machined surfaces between the base and the bearing blocks. I did not to do any alignment. The head bolted down without any adjustment needed.
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chapmanruss
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Location: near Portland, Oregon

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by chapmanruss »

As MikeG said the Cutter Head Assembly is self-aligning when bolted to the Base/Outfeed Table. There should be lock washers on the bolts that hold the Cutter Head Assembly to the Base/Outfeed Table. The Knives on the Cutter Head DO need to be correctly aligned. This information is in the Manual. If you did not get the Manual with the Jointer, I recommend getting one. Little has changed to the basic parts of the Jointer since its introduction in 1953 as the Model 4E Jointer for the Shopsmith Model 10E or 10ER. That first change was the addition of the mounting tubes for the new Model 620 Jointer to go on the Mark 5 in 1954. The other differences will be upgrades which include the Dust Chute, Drive Shaft Guard and the back of the fence Guard upgrade. Other upgrades are the Infeed Stop addition, mounting hardware for the Cutter Guard, Feather Board Cutter Guard and the change to the Cutter Head. Other than the Infeed Stop all the upgrades can be added to any 1954 Model 620 Jointer or newer. These upgrades are standard on the current Jointer. Depending on which Cutter Guard your Jointer has, older slip in, lock nut held or Feather Board Cutter Guard, it can be helpful to have a Manual that includes the use of the Cutter Guard you have.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
rcsaylor
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Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:04 pm

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by rcsaylor »

Thank you for replies. I attached a picture. Serial # SS16622 I'm assuming the bearing block is what I'm talking about. It moves front to back prior to tighten. I can move it about 3/8 of inch prior to tighten and position where ever I want. I'm ordering manual, I should have done that sooner.
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chapmanruss
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
Location: near Portland, Oregon

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by chapmanruss »

rcsaylor,

By its Serial Number your Jointer was made in May of 1980. I am not sure what is says in the current manual about the 3/8" gap between the Mounting position on the Base/Outfeed Table casting and the Bearing Housings but the 1987 Manual and newest one I have doesn't address that issue. I would suggest you center the Bearing Housings evenly and adjust if needed after setting and aligning the Knives. My June of 1979 Jointer looks like it has about the same space as yours. It is centered in the space and has about an 1/8" clearance for the blade rotation to the Base/Outfeed Table casting.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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gac5ss
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 11:54 am
Location: Harrison, AR

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by gac5ss »

Bought a 2001 520 with jointer & bandsaw a few weeks ago.

My jointer manual does not show the detail on the head mounting blocks either. I do wish the gap under the mounting bolts were not there. Looks like a problem waiting to happen. When I first tried to turn the head by hand, it was hitting on the outfeed table. I then disassembled to clean it up. I don't think the PO ever used it. After rust removal and waxing, that is when I noticed the gaps. Upon reassembly, the head is spinning freely. Should I be concerned about the gaps on the mounting brackets?
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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by JPG »

picture!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chapmanruss
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
Location: near Portland, Oregon

Re: Loose Jointer Head

Post by chapmanruss »

gac5ss,

If your Jointer looks like the picture posted by rcsaylor I would not be too concerned about it. Just make sure the bolts are tight. I have not had any problem with my 1979 Jointer which almost looks the same underneath as the picture when the Dust Chute is removed. Older Jointers, like mine, do not have the Dust Chute mounting holes threaded.

Apparently when you received your Jointer it was pushed back causing the knives to hit the Base/Outfeed Table or the knives were improperly adjusted (too high) or some of both. When setting it up for use a quick check of the shaft can tell you if there is a problem. If you can "wiggle" the shaft at all the bolts need to be tightened before use.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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