Router Question

bernie_penkin · Post by **bernie_penkin** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 9:13 pm

Hello Everyone,

Haven't posted here in a long time, but I have a router use question. My Porter Cable router has a speed control to it, but I have not learned how to use it properly. I am routing some Home Depot oak and have experienced a little burning.

I know that moderation is the key to routing, but what does my bit speed have to do with it?

Thanks,

Bernie and his loyal black lab shop assistant Holly.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:22 am

bernie_penkin wrote:Hello Everyone,

Haven't posted here in a long time, but I have a router use question. My Porter Cable router has a speed control to it, but I have not learned how to use it properly. I am routing some Home Depot oak and have experienced a little burning.

I know that moderation is the key to routing, but what does my bit speed have to do with it?

Thanks,

Bernie and his loyal black lab shop assistant Holly.

Hi Bernie,
I wood give you a big WELCOME since this is your first post (at least under this user name), but since you say that you have posted here before, maybe welcome back is more appropriate? Anyway, to your question: Is the bit sharp? I wood try a slower speed to avoid the burning. Also, do knot try to cut a lot of material with one pass; several passes at graduated depths should help.

Since this is a ShopSmith site, do you have one, or are you thinking of buying one? Even if the answer is no, please enjoy the site and ask questions.

bernie_penkin · Post by **bernie_penkin** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:31 pm

Thanks for the reply. Harbor Freight bit set. At least they feel sharp. Yes I own a 500 updated to a 520. Belonged to my dad and still running strong.

I will try your suggestions.

Bernie

BTW I don't think I have posted here in a couple of years.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:08 pm

Bernie;
The answer to burning is usually speed and/or technique. Speed can be a combination of bit speed and the speed that the router is moved across the work.
Also there is carbide and then there is carbide!!
Try to purchase router bits that are C4 grade carbide. These will be more expensive but will retain their sharpness longer.
Several years ago I was at a small woodwqorking show at a local hardware store in Hanover Pa. that was run by Delta power tools. One of the rep's was selling a table saw blade being marketed by DeWalt. After his pitch he asked if there were any questions and I asked "What grade of carbide is used in the blade?"
He replied by turning up the volume on his PA system and announcing to everyone in the room that I just asked the most important question about saw blades and cutters in general.
The second question to ask is "What is the final grit that the tool is sharpened to?"
The higher the polish the sharper the tool.
Carbide is great stuff but it is also like glass, very hard but easily fractured if not handled properly.
Try a good quality bit and see if the cut improves.
Bill

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:39 pm

bernie_penkin wrote:Thanks for the reply. Harbor Freight bit set. At least they feel sharp. Yes I own a 500 updated to a 520. Belonged to my dad and still running strong.

I will try your suggestions.

Bernie

BTW I don't think I have posted here in a couple of years.

Hi Bernie! I just looked at your join date on your public profile. It shows that you joined our group on May 7, 2007. So you have visited here, but you have only posted twice

(both on this thread). Your post count is shown on each of your posts in the upper right corner. It says "Posts: 2", right under your "Join Date: May 2007". Feel free to post more often. What part of the world do you live in?

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:50 pm

Hi,

Let me say welcome, even if you have been a member for a while. Sometimes that first post is the hardest to get over with but YOU've done it.

A lot of things come in to play when routing. Just why you are burning the wood is hard to say with the information given. The variable speed portion of the router has to do mostly with being able to use larger bits and a bit to do with problems like burning. If you move to slowly the bit will over heat and you get burning, take to deep a cut and you get burning, use a dull bit you get burning, certain woods are more difficult to route with out burning, if the bit has a pilot or bearing it may not be working right and it too can burn the wood... and yes if the bit has pitch or crud on it you get burning.

Small bit are normally run at higher speeds, say you had a 1/4" straight bit, you will crank the router up to the highest speed. If you are taking a cut that say has to be 1/4" deep, give it a pass at 1/8" deep then a second pass going to the full 1/4". Between cuts clean out the chips left in the groove you cut. If the bit can't clear the chips guess what happens?? Yep.

If I had to guess however I would say you might have been doing an edge treatment with a larger bit say like a inch in diameter... in that case you would need to reduce the rpm from full speed to say 70-75% of maximum and see what happens... also you still may need to make several passes depending on how much material you are removing. I will also guess you are moving the router to slowly.

You might want to get some cheap wood and practice for a while until you get the feel for the router/bit and how it feels when cutting. You should be getting chips not saw dust...

Ed

bernie_penkin · Post by **bernie_penkin** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:28 am

Thanks for the advice. I was trying to cut a groove in oak using a 1/4 in carbide bit. Didn't like how it turned out and am now taking the project in a new direction. I am working on a trim piece around a set of french doors. Decided to make a wider piece of trim to enhance the entrance. Once that is done I will be making trim for the rest of the room. I am thinking about getting the SS moulder kit.

BTW, my first post here way back was concerning a sticky quill problem that I still haven't been able to fix. Not sure what happened, but my brothers helped my dad upgrade to the 2 bearing quill and it was never the same after that.

bernie_penkin · Post by **bernie_penkin** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:30 am

a1gutterman wrote:Hi Bernie! I just looked at your join date on your public profile. It shows that you joined our group on May 7, 2007. So you have visited here, but you have only posted twice (both on this thread). Your post count is shown on each of your posts in the upper right corner. It says "Posts: 2", right under your "Join Date: May 2007". Feel free to post more often. What part of the world do you live in?

I live in Vancouver, WA. Joined the forum a while back, but don't spend a lot of time on it.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:32 am

bernie_penkin wrote:Thanks for the advice. I was trying to cut a groove in oak using a 1/4 in carbide bit. Didn't like how it turned out and am now taking the project in a new direction. I am working on a trim piece around a set of french doors. Decided to make a wider piece of trim to enhance the entrance. Once that is done I will be making trim for the rest of the room. I am thinking about getting the SS moulder kit.

BTW, my first post here way back was concerning a sticky quill problem that I still haven't been able to fix. Not sure what happened, but my brothers helped my dad upgrade to the 2 bearing quill and it was never the same after that.

Did they adjust the stop screw(on top of the headstock) properly? Try backing it out SLIGHTLY. The end of that screw rides in a keyway. It needs to just clear the bottom of the keyway and be IN the keyway..

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:54 am

bernie_penkin wrote:
BTW, my first post here way back was concerning a sticky quill problem that I still haven't been able to fix. Not sure what happened, but my brothers helped my dad upgrade to the 2 bearing quill and it was never the same after that.

The quill area is too simple to give you problems. I reassembled mine yesterday and initially it was sticky but as jpg said, the set screw was just a tad too tight. Check that first, it's the easiest. If it's not that, it's easy to take apart to inspect and see what's going on. Watch this sawdust session video that deals with the quill rebuild. It covers disassemble and reassembly.

It could be the hole it goes into is dry as a bone or there is metal to metal contact somewhere. I'd say remove it, visually inspect it, including the teeth on the bottom of it looking for any signs of metal to metal abrasion. Scothbrite, clean, and wax (Johnson's Original Paste Wax naturally) the hole in the headstock and the body of the quill (not the teeth though). Then reassemble it.

Good luck.