Shopsmith Forums

I recently aligned my Shopsmith Main Table. I followed the Shopsmith Hands Online! DVD, "CRITICAL ALIGNMENTS FOR THE MARK V", "Aligning the Main Table to the Saw Blade". Nick Engler did a great job in the video. I was able to easily follow his directions. My question is how easily should the table move when angling it from side to side? When I angle it to the left there is no resistance at all. When I angle it to the right I can feel a little bit of resistance. Am I over thinking this? Or should the table angle to each side without any resistance at all? Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts on this subject. Next, on to "Aligning the Miter Gauge and Rip Fence"!

First, what model do you have? My answer is based on a Mark V 500.

If by angling you are referring to tilting the table left or right, I think it should move freely both ways. However, getting the nut loose enough to do that is necessary first. On my 500 Mark V, the handle for loosening that nut is just a little too long to completely turn 360 degrees to make it easy to completely loosen. For me, the handle must be partially turned, then pulled back off the nut, rotated back some without turning the nut, then pushed forward to re-engage the nut for another partial turn. If I don't make enough of these partial turns, then yes, the table can be more difficult to tilt one way or the other.

Lodgepole wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 12:24 pm I recently aligned my Shopsmith Main Table. I followed the Shopsmith Hands Online! DVD, "CRITICAL ALIGNMENTS FOR THE MARK V", "Aligning the Main Table to the Saw Blade". Nick Engler did a great job in the video. I was able to easily follow his directions. My question is how easily should the table move when angling it from side to side? When I angle it to the left there is no resistance at all. When I angle it to the right I can feel a little bit of resistance. Am I over thinking this? Or should the table angle to each side without any resistance at all? Thanks in advance for any of your thoughts on this subject. Next, on to "Aligning the Miter Gauge and Rip Fence"!

Assuming you are talking about tilt, it is common to have some resistance on 510 and on. It relates to having two trunnion locks, as opposed to one on 500 and earlier. I'm not familiar with the procedure on the DVD, so two questions (assuming 510 or later):
1) Does the DVD mention trunnion mounting hole size? This relates to many rear trunnions having smaller (3/8" IIRC) holes for the table mounting bolts compared to the front trunnion (1/2" IIRC).
2) Does it mention a 'dollar bill trick' or '$20 bill trick'? This is in the sawdust sessions and specifically relates to trunnion drag during tilt. It is a deviation from the procedure in the manual.

Both of these can relate to the 510 and on trunnion locks dragging during table tilt.

- David

br549 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 1:00 pm First, what model do you have? My answer is based on a Mark V 500.

I do recall on 500 tables that the nut may need to be loosened more to tilt one than the other. I never looked into whether that was from a misalignment. The 510 tables may be sticky one way for other reasons as DLB covered above.

Thanks for all of your responses. I do have the 510. David, you are correct that the DVD is directly from the Sawdust Sessions. So, I did use the dollar bill trick. I have lubricated both trunnions with graphite. So now the drag is minimal. Thanks again for these responses.

Lodgepole wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 3:11 pm Thanks for all of your responses. I do have the 510. David, you are correct that the DVD is directly from the Sawdust Sessions. So, I did use the dollar bill trick. I have lubricated both trunnions with graphite. So now the drag is minimal. Thanks again for these responses.

If you lubricated the trunnions your next issue may be "not being able to lock the table tilt". The tilt lock is dependent onn friction between the wedge locks and the trunnions.

I clean the trunnions but I do not wax or lubricate them.