Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

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Seezle
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Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by Seezle »

A collection of stock Shopsmith scroll/jigsaw blades came with my 10er purchase - is there a place to get replacements for these exact types, or are there better alternatives now? If so, where?
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Scott E.
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jsburger
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by jsburger »

Any brand of 5" blades will work. Just compare the dimensions and teeth per inch of the blades you have and match those dimensions. Te teeth per inch will match but the blade width and thickness might be slightly different but probably not much for current blades. That will not make any difference. Just due to improvements over the years I would think today's blades are much better than your 70 year old blades.

Olson and Flying Dutchman are the two brands I would look at. My wife uses Flying Dutchman here.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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chapmanruss
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by chapmanruss »

To add to what John said, any 5" plain end standard Scroll Saw/Jig Saw Blade will work. Keep in mind the Jig Saw is different than the Scroll Saw in how they operate. The blade is held in constant tension between the arms on a Scroll Saw which both move in unison. On a Jig Saw the blade is held between the upper and lower chucks. The blade is held by spring tension in the upper chuck and cutting is done on the down stroke only. Extra caution must be used when using finer blades to avoid bending them. Reverse tooth and other blades made for cutting on both the up and down stroke of a Scroll Saw are not recommended for use on a Jig Saw. The Jig Saw has some extra versatility as you can use Sabre Saw or heavier Jig Saw blades on it without the upper arm attached.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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Seezle
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by Seezle »

Thanks for your replies! My saw blades are on order.

Also: I observed from a youtube video that the spring cylinder and upper guide bearing should remain static during the sawing, while the upper chuck does the 'sewing' motion. I'm not getting the same separation on mine; it stays firmly together -- probably why I've broken two blades now. Any advice on how to carefully separate them?
JigSaw1.jpg
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https://youtu.be/HBnEsZ4DwxU?t=1144
thumbnail_IMG_2919.jpg
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Last edited by Seezle on Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Scott E.
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jsburger
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by jsburger »

You have to lock the spring cylinder in place. The video kind of shows that at around 15:00 but he never explains it. The way to install the blade is put it in the lower chuck, loosen the spring housing lock ( the lock knob on the main saw frame), lower the assembly and attach the saw blade to the upper chuck. Then raise the spring housing fully up and lock it in place. That puts the tension on the blade and keeps the spring housing and blade guide from moving.

The video is very confusing and not correct. Do you have the manual? It will tell you the proper way to install a blade
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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Seezle
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by Seezle »

John:

Thanks for your fast reply! I do have a manual, although I think I may have a different issue - freeing up the spring cylinder and upper guide bearing from the upper chuck.
Last edited by Seezle on Sat Apr 01, 2023 12:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Scott E.
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rpd
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by rpd »

Seezle wrote: Mon Mar 27, 2023 11:21 pm John:

Thanks for your fast reply! I do have a manual, although I think I may have a different issue - I uploaded a small video depicting the issue here:

https://youtube.com/shorts/taQrew_fq6E?feature=share
I suspect the spring cylinder is gummed up with old oil that has polymerized over the years. I would disassemble it and clean it up. Add a few drops of oil to the leather seal on the air pump while you are in there.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
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jsburger
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by jsburger »

Yes, it is all gamed up and stuck. The upper chuck and rod should move independent of the spring housing that is held in place by the locking knob.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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chapmanruss
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by chapmanruss »

Scott E.,

There were two versions of the Model A-34 Jig Saw for the Shopsmith Model 10E and 10ER just as there were two versions of the Jig Saw Manuals. The differences between the two versions of the Jig Saw included the Lower Frame, Drive Housing Cover and the number of screws for the cover. There were also two versions of the Table Insert with the first one being a closed keyhole and the other the open keyhole. Other parts were the same and the two versions of the Jig Saw worked the same. Like all part numbers at the time, they changed in November 1951. An example is the Guide Shaft Screw referenced below.

I have had a couple of the Upper Chuck Assemblies stuck in the Spring Cylinder Assembly on the Jig Saws I have restored. I would recommend removing the Cylinder from the Upper Arm. On the top you will find a Nut, Washer and the Leather Seal. Be careful with the Leather Seal as it can deteriorate over time. Remove these three parts before adding any lubricants to free up the Upper Chuck Assembly from the Spring Cylinder Assembly. It may be as simple as adding a few drops of oil down the cylinder or as difficult as using a penetrating oil of some type to free it up. In some cases, patience is needed to allow the penetrating oil to get things free. One I had was very stubborn and took days to free up. Removing the Guide Shaft Screw (P/N 134-29 in early manuals and P/N A 2217 in later Manuals) can help and allow the Upper Chuck to be rotated in the Spring Cylinder Assembly to help in removal. It is that screw which keeps the Upper Chuck from rotating during normal operation. You can remove the Spring Guide that is threaded on the end of Upper Chuck shaft under the Leather Seal to disassemble the parts once freed and clean out any residue before reassembly and use. Follow the maintenance recommendations by adding a few drops of oil in the top of the cylinder to help the leather seal work and lubricate the assemblies.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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Seezle
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Re: Replacement 10er Scroll/Jigsaw blades

Post by Seezle »

Excellent! I did succeed in carefully separating the two after a few hours of it soaking in some penetrating oil. I decided it could use a solid once-over so I took the whole thing apart and will be cleaning it and reassembling as per the advice above.

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and here as well - although it's the earlier version of the A-34:


viewtopic.php?t=26016

One question: Should I try and separate the Upper Guide Bearing from the Spring Cylinder for cleaning?

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Scott E.
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