New Shopsmith Owner

[WinterGandalf]

Hello All,

I recently came into possession of my wife's grandfather's Shopsmith, which I believe is a model 10ER. I'll try and figure out how to attach some pictures to show the machine.

It's been sitting in his garage for 20+ years at least is my guess - but despite that it doesn't appear too rusty on the outside. I plan on disassembling it at least somewhat and giving it a good cleaning and inspection before I try to start it up; I haven't turned it on yet. However, my father-in-law told me he did try to turn it on, and based on his description of the 'humming' and no movement obtained when he did so, I believe I need a new capacitor for the motor. Any suggestions where to obtain one of those? I'd like to keep the motor if I can instead of just replacing.

[chapmanruss]

WinterGandalf,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum.

If you have a Shopsmith Model 10ER it should look very close to the one below.

_

R64000.jpg (91.51 KiB) Viewed 4034 times

.
To check the motor, I would recommend removing the belt first to allow the motor to run without a load. If with no load it only hums than it is a motor problem but may not be the capacitor. I have restored a lot of Model 10's and have had almost no real motor problems. Most of the time it is a through cleanout of dust and checking the contacts that is needed.

I have had to replace almost every Drive Sleeve Assembly and Quill Assembly bearing. At around 70 years old for original bearings their being lifetime sealed bearings have found the end of their life. Besides replacing the bearings if needed I also recommend replacing the power cord and switch as the power cords tend to be very brittle and the switch is very old. This is a good time to add a grounded power cord to the Shopsmith.

Keep us updated on your progress and do ask any questions you have as you go through you Shopsmith Model 10ER.

[Restore]

Hello all,
This is my first post as a new Shopsmith 10ER 1952 owner, I’ve got to say this is an amazing forum with Soooo much great info.
I may have some docs that do not appear on the shared google drive that I can scan & share if a seasoned contributor can take a peek and advise me please, I will try to attach an overview pic of the docs and a itemized list of them to review.

I am a retired aerospace machinist looking forward to doing a total restoration on this baby that belonged to my brother-in-laws father, looking forward to reviewing all the great resources here before I ask a question that has most likely been answered here before.
Regards,
Stewart

[chapmanruss]

Restore,

Welcome to the Shopsmith Forum. You said in part

I may have some docs that do not appear on the shared google drive that I can scan & share if a seasoned contributor can take a peek and advise me please

If the shared google drive you are referring to is the one under the Maintenance and Repair section for Shopsmith Large Format Drawings, Illustrations and More by Everett Davis that is controlled by him and he has made those restored documents available to us. Everett has become the Shopsmith historian by saving and restoring manuals and other documents. He has not added any for some time now and still has scans yet to be restored. It is quite an undertaking to restore these documents to the quality he has done. I know of 15 different Owner's Guides for the Models 10E and 10ER, 12 of which I have in either print and/or digital. That doesn't include all the other Model 10 related Documation. The Model 10 Owner's Guides available on Everett's Google Drive is sufficient to help owners who did not get manuals with their tool. I don't mean to discourage you from scanning and making available any documents you have as specific questions come up. I have many scanned documents I make available from time to time in posts here.

As for your Model 10ER it looks in pretty good shape and fairly complete with some nice extra accessories. It looks to be a similar vintage to the one in my post above. Once restored you will have a tool that works great and something to be proud of. Do feel free to ask questions as you restore and use your Shopsmith.

[Restore]

Russ,
Thank you much for the feedback, A quick question if you would please, do you think those tubes are in good enough shape for me to simply use a buffing wheel to polish them and then apply Minwax since the Johnson wax appears to be discontinued and is no longer available?
Stewart

[chapmanruss]

It looks like there is some surface rust on the way tubes so removing that would be the first step. If left, the surface rust may lead to worse rust problems in the future. Weather/climate plays a big part in the rusting of bare metal. Once the rust is removed you can polish and use the Minwax to protect all the steel/iron bare metal parts of the Shopsmith. Do note that I said all steel/iron bare metal parts so not just the way tubes. At the time the Model 10's were being produced Magna recommended "cover all unpainted steel surfaces with a thin film of light machine of oil to prevent rusting." Although it helped protect the Way Tubes from rusting and provide lubrication for the Headstock and Carriage to move more easily than bare metal to bare metal it collected sawdust during operations and "gummed" things up. Furniture paste Wax not only provides protection against rust but also provides lubrication for the bare metal parts to move freely on one another. The following PDF is an addendum to the Model 10 Owner's Guides.

_

Waxing Supplement Model 10s.pdf

(109.74 KiB) Downloaded 142 times

[Real1shepperd]

Interesting on the paste wax. Originally, I tried a really light machine oil and as the literature says, sawdust just gummed it up. Then I tried a good synthetic auto paste wax. Again, the literature says while the auto wax is very hard, it doesn't offer lubricating properties.

Lol....so I'll be trying the furniture paste wax next!

Kevin

[JPG]

Stick to paste FLOOR (NOT non-skid) or finishing wax.

Needs carnuba wax.

[Restore]

Good morning All,
Feeling pretty good about the SS restore so far but I have run into a small problem replacing the drive bearings that I hope someone here can help with.

I watched the SS YouTube videos on bearing replacements and all went well with the Spindle bearings but the new drive shaft bearings are stiff, after thinking about it I noticed the spacer looks like it is shouldering on the outside race not the inside race therefore the last strike with my dead blow hammer would have transferred pressure to the outside race and damaged the bearings, any thoughts on this? hope I am wrong as those bearing were original part numbers replacements and expensive.

PS: To help me out a little bit I put the shafts in my chest freezer at -10 deg. to shrink them a bit and the spindle bearings went on with very little pressure.

[Restore]

As a side note just arrived in the mail is my copy of the 1953 edition of PTW, I REALLY appreciate the Everet PDF version but it's just nice to have a real book in my hands and it's kinda part of the SS legacy....Feeling pretty lucky as I found this copy for just $4.39
Stew