Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

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edma194
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by edma194 »

Stick with your Goldie headstock. You'll want that access hole, and all the newer parts intended to work with that motor.
Ed from Rhode Island

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JPG
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by JPG »

No bolts, pins and tinnerman clips.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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chapmanruss
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by chapmanruss »

In October 1955 the change was made from the "A" Headstock to the "B" Headstock beginning with serial number 312508. Having the "B" Headstock from the Goldie will be an advantage with the access hole under the Logo Plate on the back of the Headstock among other reasons. You can always paint the Headstock Casting and Motor Pan silver to match the Greenie colors those two parts would have. The Belt Cover would be green. Your "A" Headstock also came with a High-Speed Lock which was discontinued on the "B" Headstock. For that reason, you will want to use the Speed Control Dial from the Goldie. That is one example of the changes that occurred between the time your Greenie "A" Headstock was made and the Goldie "B" Headstock you are looking at. There were many other improvements made to the Headstock during that time period. Yes, I did call them improvements which is why you would want to use the upgraded parts of the Goldie Headstock whenever possible. This is especially true if it has the Poly V Drive which most Goldie Headstocks had. You will notice the differences as you compare the two Headstocks.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
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joneill4
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by joneill4 »

I'm 99% sure that I will simply swap the headstocks, add a bit of lube, check the power cord, and move on. That said, I do have a few questions. In a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate? The folks who are responding to this thread seem to be the most active members of this forum, so that may skew the frequency much higher than average. I'm guessing that 90%+ of Shopsmith owners have never removed it. Why do you pull it? I have seen videos where it is used to access the clip connecting the speed control to the sheave. Is that the only reason for the hole? How long does it take to remove the motor? It looks to my untrained eye that you would have access if the motor was out of your way. In 20 years, I bet less than 20 people have seen my Shopsmith, so I don't know why I care.
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dusty
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by dusty »

joneill4 wrote: Mon May 29, 2023 4:15 pm I'm 99% sure that I will simply swap the headstocks, add a bit of lube, check the power cord, and move on. That said, I do have a few questions. In a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate? The folks who are responding to this thread seem to be the most active members of this forum, so that may skew the frequency much higher than average. I'm guessing that 90%+ of Shopsmith owners have never removed it. Why do you pull it? I have seen videos where it is used to access the clip connecting the speed control to the sheave. Is that the only reason for the hole? How long does it take to remove the motor? It looks to my untrained eye that you would have access if the motor was out of your way. In 20 years, I bet less than 20 people have seen my Shopsmith, so I don't know why I care.
My first question was what percentage of Shopsmith owners have machines without the access hole.

I pull the logo plate about once every three to four months for a good clean out and lubrication. Understand that I believe you cannot over lub a Mark 5/V..
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Dusty
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joneill4
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by joneill4 »

Hey Dusty, this is actually pretty surprising to me. How often are you using it? If it happened to sit idle for 6 months, would you lube it while you were not using it?
br549
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by br549 »

joneill4 wrote: Mon May 29, 2023 4:15 pmIn a given decade, how many times will you guys pull the logo plate?
Over the past 43 years (4 + decades), it would be hard to say. To perform the recommended lubrication after every ten hours of use, I removed the access cover numerous times during the first few years when I used it the most. Besides for lubrication and cleaning purposes, if I have to remove the motor when the centrifugal switch inside of the motor needs cleaning, I'll use the access hole to remove the power switch to make motor removal easier. It takes several more minutes to remove the motor than just the access cover, and not something I would enjoy doing just to lubricate the sheaves and blow out some dust. After having the button bearing fail on me, I now probably lube more often than every 10 hours, and I would guess once every 4 months or so. I can't imagine not having the access hole, even if it is relatively small for my medium size hands.
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chapmanruss
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by chapmanruss »

Occasionally cleaning out dust/debris from inside the Headstock along with proper lubrication will keep your Mark 5 running in top condition. Removing the Belt Cover and opening the rear access hole allows for that cleaning and lubrication. On page 53 of the Mark V Model 500 Summary Manual PDF linked below, you will find the maintenance instructions. Page 53 is actually the 45th page as this Summary Manual does not contain all of the actual Manual's pages. Keeping the movable Sheaves of the Motor and Idler Pulleys lubricated (oiled) is essential to keeping the variable speed working. Clean and lubricated (dry lubricant) gears on the Speed Control Assembly are necessary too.

https://www.shopsmith.com/getting_start ... Manual.pdf

The amount of use, length of time between maintenance and conditions under which the Shopsmith is used/stored are all factors on how often maintenance should be performed. If the Speed Dial is getting harder to turn, maintenance is probably overdue.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
joneill4
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by joneill4 »

The Goldie worked out just fine. The belts look new, and the quill looks like its been freshly waxed. I oiled the sheaves and dry lubed the parts of the speed control that I could get to. I was unable to remove the speed control knob. Assuming I am looking at the right thing, I cannot get an allen wrench to bite into the set screw. In one of the Sawdust Sessions vids, Nick's set screw was at about 12 o'clock. Mine (if I am actually looking at the set screw) is at about 2 o'clock. It's basically in-line with the quill lever. Am I looking in the wrong place?
joneill4
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Re: Old shopsmith with a poorly replaced motor

Post by joneill4 »

I am indeed looking in the wrong place. I just found a pic of the back side of the lever.
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