Shopsmith Forums

Hey Folks - I recently picked up another used piece of SS gear - this time a Tenon Master jig. This appears to be an earlier version of the current model. The knob unlocks and allows you to move the jig and then tighten it in position. In addition, it has only four holes in the corners of the vertical plate that holds the clamp. It is equipped with a straight support for the stock, as opposed to the current elliptical model with the movable angle function, though this may not be original. I am curious if anyone else has this model and if they can date it for me. From the label on it, I am guessing the 70's. The base plate differs from the current design - It also has Shopsmith Inc. cast into the metal. It fits the Mark V mitre slots just fine. Thanks - Alec


Tenon Jig

I have an identical item however, it doesn't have Shopsmith printed on it. I purchased it new a couple years ago from ebay. It does have manufacturing codes on it and I'm sure it was made in China. Actually the miter rail was too large for the Shopsmith so I used the disk sander to grind it down to fit. No problems using it with the Shopsmith. It is identical to yours down to the green clamp system and oval shaped adjustment knob. Sorry couldn't help further.

They are sorta all the same. If you have one that works, you can't ask for much more. However, it appears that Shopsmith has had a couple different models. At least it seems to me that mine is a bit different.

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dusty wrote:They are sorta all the same. If you have one that works, you can't ask for much more. However, it appears that Shopsmith has had a couple different models. ...

That looks like the one I have. And I'm looking for info because I just happened to find something about it that is quite peculiar. Just 'messing' with it t'other day- all apart, clearing cobwebs, y'know- and was thinking I should be using it more, as it appeared to be a great solid "square" jig, and reached over to get a handy square. (You know what's coming...)

Well darned if the upright side is not square to the base.
It's not off by much, but enough to see a wee sliver of light. Tried another square that was handy, same thing. Had to go right then, so didn't get digital on it, but that's next, so to quantify.

Query: is it supposed to be square?

I'm afraid of the answer. If it isn't it may be fun figuring out why. If it is, I got a bummer jig.

keakap wrote:That looks like the one I have. And I'm looking for info because I just happened to find something about it that is quite peculiar. Just 'messing' with it t'other day- all apart, clearing cobwebs, y'know- and was thinking I should be using it more, as it appeared to be a great solid "square" jig, and reached over to get a handy square. (You know what's coming...)

Well darned if the upright side is not square to the base.
It's not off by much, but enough to see a wee sliver of light. Tried another square that was handy, same thing. Had to go right then, so didn't get digital on it, but that's next, so to quantify.

Query: is it supposed to be square?

I'm afraid of the answer. If it isn't it may be fun figuring out why. If it is, I got a bummer jig.

Yes, it is reasonable to expect it to be square to the table when setting in the miter slot. I just checked mine using the Wixey. After zeroing the Wixey on the table top, the Tenon Master measures .3&#176]Honest questions - not sarcasm.[/B]

Tenons should fit solidly into mortises. That's why I started making floating tenons with my planer. Once the correct thickness is reached, I can cut to size to fit mortises made with a router.

I have a homemade tenon master I made from plans in Nick Engler's book. (the big thick book- Think the title is Woodworking Wisdom. Anyway, I only use that jig, anymore, for sawing panel slopes. Also have the "Tenon Master" (a gift) looks just like yours, but haven't used it so can't comment on the trueness.

Your 1/64th inch off on a 2 inch tenon - The only problem would be if the shoulder of the tenon was narrower. If it is thicker, and won't fit, then it can be trimmed with a chisel.

Tenons should fit solidly into mortises. That's why I started making floating tenons with my planer. Once the correct thickness is reached, I can cut to size to fit mortises made with a router.

I have a homemade tenon master I made from plans in Nick Engler's book. (the big thick book- Think the title is Woodworking Wisdom. Anyway, I only use that jig, anymore, for sawing panel slopes. Also have the "Tenon Master" (a gift) looks just like yours, but haven't used it so can't comment on the trueness.

Your 1/64th inch off on a 2 inch tenon - The only problem would be if the shoulder of the tenon was narrower. If it is thicker, and won't fit, then it can be trimmed with a chisel.

keakap wrote:That looks like the one I have. And I'm looking for info because I just happened to find something about it that is quite peculiar. Just 'messing' with it t'other day- all apart, clearing cobwebs, y'know- and was thinking I should be using it more, as it appeared to be a great solid "square" jig, and reached over to get a handy square. (You know what's coming...)

Well darned if the upright side is not square to the base.
It's not off by much, but enough to see a wee sliver of light. Tried another square that was handy, same thing. Had to go right then, so didn't get digital on it, but that's next, so to quantify.

Query: is it supposed to be square?

I'm afraid of the answer. If it isn't it may be fun figuring out why. If it is, I got a bummer jig.

Yeah, it is suppose to be square and despite my previous post (this thread) mine is dead on. So what happened, you ask. I took it apart cleaned it and put it back together. I was really looking for a way to square it to the table top. It could be shimmed if needed.

Fortunately, it does not need to be shimmed and yours might not either. That is a husky piece of equipment and it seems a shame that it does not get used more.

Question: I see it being used to cut the cheeks on tenons but why is it made so that it can be turned 90°?

If I understand the question correctly, So it can cut cheeks (etc.) at other than a 90 degree angle.

"A toggle clamp is included to help you grip the workpiece, as is an arced wooden trunnion that you can use to provide back-up support when working with stock that has angled ends... for example, when cutting spline grooves for the mating faces of miters, such as those on picture frames and similar projects."

Other than de 'feet' what caused de previous angle?