Quill Questions

[JPG]

Bent shaft or shaft wobble in the bearing?

[CreekWood]

Bent shaft. No bearing slop that I can feel, but spinning the shaft from the output end shows an out-of-axis wobble at the splined end....kind of like scribing a circle with your fingertip while holding the rest of your hand still. I think the bend is up at the outer-most bearing, inside the quill tube. It's noticeable even without a dial indicator.

[DLB]

My recommendation would be to first contact the seller for a proposed resolution. They usually want to solve the problem, if not ebay will normally solve it for them. If the item was not as described, ebay will refund your money and pay for return shipping. Ebay usually defines 'Used' as fully functional as intended. Some categories have a different definition, so you kind of have to watch out for this, especially with some sellers. But don't let a seller tell you that you have to pay return shipping, only accept that in the unlikely event that ebay says it.

Another member recently had a problem with an ebay item. (viewtopic.php?t=33820) My best guess is it is the same seller, I only found one recent 24" miter gauge extension sale, and it is the same guy. I'm not bashing, especially if he takes care of the problem, but I'd be wary. I'm weary of incorrectly described items on ebay.

- David

[JPG]

" incorrectly described "

Polite term for junk.

[CreekWood]

Reached out to the seller, who offered to make good with a substitute quill. Packing this one up and awaiting eBay return instructions.

[CreekWood]

Update: The (lightly used) replacement quill I received measured out with .012" runout on the spline end, and less than .001" at the business end. Put into service in my headstock, that <.001 is a great improvement over the old single bearing quill.

I noticed something for the first time, however, and I think it's true for the original and the newer quill. With the quill unlocked, I can move the whole assembly up/down (headstock in horizontal position) about .012" (measured at the drive shaft tip. Locking the quill reduces that play to .002"

I need to confirm for myself, but I don't think it matters how far the quill is extended. Is there anything in the headstock that tightens the quill bore? I tried tightening the quill retention setscrew, but that just gets me a sticky quill travel.

[JPG]

NO bore adjustment.

Further extension should = greater deflection.

[DLB]

Update: The (lightly used) replacement quill I received measured out with .012" runout on the spline end, and less than .001" at the business end. Put into service in my headstock, that <.001 is a great improvement over the old single bearing quill.

I noticed something for the first time, however, and I think it's true for the original and the newer quill. With the quill unlocked, I can move the whole assembly up/down (headstock in horizontal position) about .012" (measured at the drive shaft tip. Locking the quill reduces that play to .002"

I need to confirm for myself, but I don't think it matters how far the quill is extended. Is there anything in the headstock that tightens the quill bore? I tried tightening the quill retention setscrew, but that just gets me a sticky quill travel.

That's significantly better runout on the spline end. I've never measured this, but would have expected better. I'll try to measure one, but need to think about a proper setup.

While it is not a true bore adjustment, the quill lock itself does tighten the quill bore around the quill. I've never seen or heard of specs for the bore when the lock is relaxed and the bore is sprung open. You might try loosening the lock less and see if it reduces that free play.(?) I have no idea if that will work, depends on how round the bore is in that state as well as diameter. Are you measuring this at the spindle or barrel of the quill? I'll try to measure this too, for reference.

- David

[CreekWood]

David,
With the quill fully retracted and locked, I measure <.001" play at the spindle tip, and very little increase with the quill unlocked. The play increases as the quill is extended. But you are correct--tightening the quill lock until it's "sticky" greatly reduces the play. I'm measuring up and down, as well as horizontally. I'm chasing this down because the play at the quill spindle tip means more play at the tip of a drill bit. Looks like a simple solution is to tighten the quill lock a bit.

BTW, I'm also realizing there is more play in the main table in both axis than in this quill. As I'm learning the Mark V, I'm exploring the limits of accuracy and precision. I don't expect machinist high-end .001" precision in the product, but on the other hand, 1/16" out here and over there in bookshelf pin holes add up to sloppy shelves.

[DLB]

David,
With the quill fully retracted and locked, I measure <.001" play at the spindle tip, and very little increase with the quill unlocked. The play increases as the quill is extended. But you are correct--tightening the quill lock until it's "sticky" greatly reduces the play. I'm measuring up and down, as well as horizontally. I'm chasing this down because the play at the quill spindle tip means more play at the tip of a drill bit. Looks like a simple solution is to tighten the quill lock a bit.

BTW, I'm also realizing there is more play in the main table in both axis than in this quill. As I'm learning the Mark V, I'm exploring the limits of accuracy and precision. I don't expect machinist high-end .001" precision in the product, but on the other hand, 1/16" out here and over there in bookshelf pin holes add up to sloppy shelves.

I pulled the quill out of my mini and measured ~0.003" runout at the splines. Magnetic base mounted to barrel and dial indicator with flat tip to measure high point of each spline. I rebuilt this quill about 1-1/2 or 2 years ago, and it is modified with three setscrews tapped into the barrel to provide better support for the inner bearing. So I'll measure another one. I did not measure barrel movement in the headstock bore with the lock loose, but it was quite a bit.

Keeping your quill barrel and bore clean and waxed (JPW or equivalent) allows you to operate the quill feed without loosening the lock all the way. I would think this is as good as it gets.

Table instability in the same axis as it tilts is characteristic of at least 510 and on. This can be significantly improved by tying the main table to the accessory table with connector tubes, especially on 520. I use this most of the time, though setups take longer. If you are having instability in the infeed/outfeed direction with everything locked, that could be indicating a problem.

- David