New member here. Howdy to all.
I was having issues with my speed control so I took out the speed changer mechanism, filed some crooked teeth, lubed it and it is much better now. I took off the drive sheeve to check the lubrication and check the belt. I'll be darned if I can get the belt back on. I'm pretty sure I changed this belt quite a few years ago (bought the SS in 1982) so obviously I got it back on then. The belt seems too short but it can't be since it was on the pulley before. Any ideas to help me out?
Changing belt
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
Changing belt
SS 520, SS band saw. Grizzly cabinet saw, jointer, drill press,14" bandsaw, belt/disc sander. Delta 13" planer. Hitachi router in router table. Old Craftsman radial arm saw.
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Changing belt
Pry open the motor sheave with the speed control set to fast (control sheave open).
Slip the belt(start insertion) on one side and then rotate the sheave to allow the belt to 'walk' in.
Slip the belt(start insertion) on one side and then rotate the sheave to allow the belt to 'walk' in.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Changing belt
Welcome to the forum. I think the phrase "drive sheeve" might be throwing us, I interpreted it one way and I see that JPG interpreted it another. His instructions are for the lower belt.oso2you wrote: ↑Sun Dec 31, 2023 8:44 pm New member here. Howdy to all.
I was having issues with my speed control so I took out the speed changer mechanism, filed some crooked teeth, lubed it and it is much better now. I took off the drive sheeve to check the lubrication and check the belt. I'll be darned if I can get the belt back on. I'm pretty sure I changed this belt quite a few years ago (bought the SS in 1982) so obviously I got it back on then. The belt seems too short but it can't be since it was on the pulley before. Any ideas to help me out?
- David
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Changing belt
Yep, I prefer referring to the motor belt and motor pulley(floating sheave,fan sheave).
The 'other' belt is the poly-v belt(or gilmer).
They both drive stuff.
The 'other' belt is the poly-v belt(or gilmer).
They both drive stuff.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Changing belt
I was referring to the top pulley, not the "gilmer" belt. It is confusing.
SS 520, SS band saw. Grizzly cabinet saw, jointer, drill press,14" bandsaw, belt/disc sander. Delta 13" planer. Hitachi router in router table. Old Craftsman radial arm saw.
Re: Changing belt
I'm still not certain that I understand. Here is a link to the replacement procedure for the upper belt, Poly-V in your case. It also includes instructions for removing and reinstalling the motor (lower) belt, which is off the sheaves while installing the upper. (https://shopsmith.com/wp-content/upload ... 8-FREE.pdf) I hope this helps.
- David
- David
Re: Changing belt
The terminology I used was not clear I know. I did get the belt on it was just harder to walk it on the pulley than I remembered. I appreciate the help.
SS 520, SS band saw. Grizzly cabinet saw, jointer, drill press,14" bandsaw, belt/disc sander. Delta 13" planer. Hitachi router in router table. Old Craftsman radial arm saw.
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Brian49017
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2021 1:09 pm
Re: Changing belt
Have a new belt sander and the 6 screws holding the top plate are working loose ruining the belt
They appear to be wood screws going into spring clips and do not tighten properly?
They appear to be wood screws going into spring clips and do not tighten properly?
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SplintersNmeoveralls
- Silver Member
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2024 9:36 pm
Re: Changing belt
Hello,
I have the Woodmaster 7 in 1 1981 Version of the shop smith 7-1.
It came with a green manual that states to turn on and set speed dial to Route-Shape first then turn off. Remove the name plate on back of headstock, hand turn spindle until a hole can be seen in the shaft. Add 3 drops of oil. No hole.
Also states there are holes in the motor shaft under the spring. Nope! Not there either. A 1 1/2" tube extends as the shaft sleeve then its wrapped or surrounded by a spring. I'm supposed to hand turn spindle until the hole is exposed, but there isnt a hole.
I could get some oil in between the sleeve and shaft that extends from inside of spring but that may just make a mess.
I need to get this thing lubricated.
I have the Woodmaster 7 in 1 1981 Version of the shop smith 7-1.
It came with a green manual that states to turn on and set speed dial to Route-Shape first then turn off. Remove the name plate on back of headstock, hand turn spindle until a hole can be seen in the shaft. Add 3 drops of oil. No hole.
Also states there are holes in the motor shaft under the spring. Nope! Not there either. A 1 1/2" tube extends as the shaft sleeve then its wrapped or surrounded by a spring. I'm supposed to hand turn spindle until the hole is exposed, but there isnt a hole.
I could get some oil in between the sleeve and shaft that extends from inside of spring but that may just make a mess.
I need to get this thing lubricated.
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chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3488
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Changing belt
To comment on SplintersNmeoveralls post above go to the thread "How to lubricate when there are no holes for lubrication" which already has responses posted. No need to duplicate information here.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.