A couple if kickback accidents

[edma194]

This one on a table saw is a couple of years old - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN7G7G3gMeg

Not sure exactly what he was doing there. Looks like it wasn't a through cut but he doesn't seem to push the board all the way through the blade, maybe even started backing it up over the blade. Smaller boards are always a kickback danger because the board doesn't weight much, and you will tend to stand behind it.

This next one on a bandsaw is pretty clear and he'll repeat it in slow motion - https://youtu.be/86Z1Q3cf5iw?si=RsTRAI8Yhl3FqMw4&t=47

Once again a smaller piece is dangerous, and this one was just big enough to cause a lot of injury. This guy got off easy. I had that happen at least once with much smaller pieces. I'm going to keep this one in mind for the future. It's clear he wasn'y supporting and controlling the piece sufficiently with his hands. Since he's slicing a piece off he could have held the piece against the fence with a block of wood and a projection from that holding the piece down on the table.

Please add other accidents if you find them on video. At least for me these will be excellent reminders to safely control boards when sawing.

[RFGuy]

Ed,

Thanks. The 1st video I watched at 0.25x speed on YT and I think I know what happened. It looks like he is feeding multiple pieces through for cuts and not clearing them first, which I am not a fan of doing. Hobbyist woodworkers should NEVER do this, i.e. one cut at a time. How long does it take to stop, move the workpiece to another table and continue working on the saw? Whatever he is using for outfeed collection seemed to run out of space and on that 2nd piece he backed the workpiece up and that is when it caught on the sawblade and got thrown at him. NEVER back a workpiece up while sawing. Had he continued to push the cut through to completion or even turned the saw off while steadily holding the workpiece probably no kickback would have happened. In the 2nd video, I don't agree with Jay. I like him and his content, but have seen him do/describe some questionable things over the years. I don't agree that that particular cut can be made safely. IF one really wants to resaw any odd shaped object, especially something round like that, it is better to make a sled of some kind to control the workpiece through the cut. Fingers are more important than saving some project that you decide to resaw AFTER the fact IMHO.

[JPG]

#1 backup fer sure and one handed at that!

[edma194]

Here's another table kickback. Video starts right before his re-creation of a past event. - https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4?si=OpECV08aEw8kZKuO&t=141

My personal advice, if you're lucky enough not to get hurt from a kickback like that, just don't do it again. Your mileage may vary.

I don't recall a board turning in on the blade quite like that. Just something else to watch out for now.

[JPG]

That has been here before. EVERYONE should pay heed! Good to show it again.

I maintain that control of the board will prevent kickback.



Easier said than done!

Push sticks only push. They do not control sideways motion.

I rarely use a push stick.


BEWARE small(short) parts!

Bandsaw is preferred for small parts.

[RFGuy]

The latest video is interesting to me. From my perspective I always use a push stick for narrow parts to rip like that. A push stick, not a push block. I would never, ever use a push block on TS operations. Jointer, router, etc. sure, but never TS. Is anyone using a push block on TS operations and if so can you explain the logic behind it to me? I see a push stick, for narrow workpiece rips, as a safe method, but if there is more room and the workpiece is larger I would use my bare hands making sure to keep them well away from the blade and centerline of the axis of cut. Thoughts?

[larryhrockisland]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234560546567
I have this and like it although I seldom use the added features. I also use it for a basic pattern for making my own out of plywood. I have a Grr-Ripper but don’t care for it. I guess I like to see the blade. I do not like the long, skinny, stick style at all.

[edma194]

To propel a board I some form of a push stick. I'll use a push block to hold a board down, even use it down on the saw table top to push a board through if it fits. Using something just on top of a board alone to move it introduces too many ways for the board to move in an unexpected direction.

[JPG]

To propel a board I some form of a push stick. I'll use a push block to hold a board down, even use it down on the saw table top to push a board through if it fits. Using something just on top of a board alone to move it introduces too many ways for the board to move in an unexpected direction.

THAT is my perception of what a push stick does.

[RFGuy]

To propel a board I some form of a push stick. I'll use a push block to hold a board down, even use it down on the saw table top to push a board through if it fits. Using something just on top of a board alone to move it introduces too many ways for the board to move in an unexpected direction.

THAT is my perception of what a push stick does.

Yeah, my concern with using a push block on table saw operations, especially on a Mark V with its added height, is being able to simultaneously push down and maintain control of pushing evenly forward through the saw cut. With jointer operation as an example, it is much easier to both push down and push forward, with control, using a push block because you are doing so more from above as the jointer bed is lower. Easier to maintain control this way due to body position, I think. Also the reach with a TS vs. a jointer is you are leaning much farther away from the body, so less hand control perhaps. At least this is how I see it. Not saying I am right here. Just looking for your thoughts. I now have the Jessem Clear-Cut Stock Guides on my 520 fence and it works for like 95% of the rips that I do without being in the way. It both pushes down and pulls the board into the fence due to the 5° angle on the rollers. I just have to get a push stick to start the board and go up and over the rollers with it, but it has worked well for me. Before this, I exclusively used a push stick or the push stick that straddles the fence for small parts. I didn't use the latter often, but when I needed it, it was very handy. One of the features of Shopsmith safety gear that I really appreciated. I have to say for the generation of Mark V that I bought, I am really impressed with the safety kit from Shopsmith and I still use most of it. Only exception is I can't use the fence straddling push stick now with the Jessem guides in the way. I applaud Shopsmith for the safety kit and emphasis on safety, though I think this came from hard learned experience after the previous product generation and some lawsuit abuse against them. It just seems like to me a push block is too likely to have sideways movement if it isn't grippy enough and/or enough force is used to hold down, whereas a push stick with constant contact behind the board and light downward pressure, especially if you can keep the outbound side of the board firmly against the back of the fence is safer. Then again, some love that specialty Gripper product...can't remember the name brand that started it, but there have been multiple knock-offs. Perhaps with a really firm grip in a good design, one of those types of push blocks is safe?