Shopsmith Forums

I've gone through most of the alignment procedure and have the main table aligned to the headstock, the mitre guage and fence are aligned and all looks good. However, when I got to doing the alignment of the extension table I get the following gap in the rear where the two tables ought to be parallel but are obviously not.. Any ideas on what I've missed? If it matters, near the front the two are in pretty good shape but the rear is the problem. It seems to imply that the main table is not aligned.. I've got the extension tubes locked in to the main table as the manual indicates if that helps..

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Here's some addtional pics of my current setup if that helps..

If you look closely you can see in this photo that the two tables are touching in the front but the gaps in the rear and is somewhere between 1/16"-->1/18" (I didn't measure it).
One question I've got -- the tubes that are used to connect the two tables together -- one is short (<2' long if I recall) and the other is long (perhaps 3-4').. Does that sound correct? Those are the only ones that came with my setup when I bought it..I have extension legs but they're too small for this duty..
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osx-addict wrote:I've gone through most of the alignment procedure and have the main table aligned to the headstock, the mitre guage and fence are aligned and all looks good. However, when I got to doing the alignment of the extension table I get the following gap in the rear where the two tables ought to be parallel but are obviously not.

have you done the alignment of the extension table to the main table without the extension tubes?

seems like the 4 bolts under the extension table need to be loosened for the alignment and then tightened back up (with the extension table legs locked in place vertically).

I am going to attempt a response to a couple of your points.

First the tubes that you are using for the front and rear rails; check them to make certain they are straight. Just lay them on a flat surface and roll them. If they are not straight, you will know it immediately.

As for being different length - I don't believe it makes a lot of difference as long as you can lock the tubes in the front and rear rails.

If you feel like you need longer front and rear tubes, you could buy some EMT as your local hardware store to use for this. It is slightly smaller in diameter (O.D.) but works fine.

Now to align your extension table. Same procedure, slightly abbreviated, works for floating tables.

We start with the basic assumption that the Main Table has been properly aligned (especially square to the blade).

Move the headstock to the right, close to the right extension table if that is the one you want to align. Move it to the left, if that is the one you want to align.

Loosen the nuts that secure the Extension Table Base to the bottom of the table. Do not take the nuts and washers off, just loosen them.

Install the tubes into the front and rear rails and secure the the tubes into the Main Table. This is a point of reference for the rest of the Extension Table (or Floating Table) setup.

With the Extension Table and Main Table close together as shown in your photos, you should now be able to push the Extension Table tight against the Main Table and secure the thumb screws to secure it there.

Having done that, you now have to secure the Extension Table to the Extension Table Base.

Secure the washers and nuts finger tight on the studs that hold the Extension Table to the Extension Table Base. Get them all finger tight before you put a wrench on any one of them. Now snug the nuts on all four studs working around the table like you would securing the studs on your car tire. Now, once again, tighten all the nuts on all four studs.

This being done, you should have eliminated the original problem.

The tables should be the same height and square to one another.

NOTE: These tables doe not have perfect edges (machining detail) and there may be some inconsistencies that you just have to live with.

You may also have to loosen the front and rear rails from the table and then resecure them in the same manner as we did with the Table Base.

I hope this helps.

dusty wrote:I am going to attempt a response to a couple of your points.

First the tubes that you are using for the front and rear rails] Good idea.. I didn't check and would certainly cause problems if not straight.

dusty wrote: Now to align your extension table. Same procedure, slightly abbreviated, works for floating tables.

We start with the basic assumption that the Main Table has been properly aligned (especially square to the blade).

Yup.. All done and square to the blade...

dusty wrote: Move the headstock to the right, close to the right extension table if that is the one you want to align. Move it to the left, if that is the one you want to align.

I'll assume that you mean to move the main table if you're adjusting the right extension table but the headstock otherwise.. as shown in the pictures above..

dusty wrote: Loosen the nuts that secure the Extension Table Base to the bottom of the table. Do not take the nuts and washers off, just loosen them.

Install the tubes into the front and rear rails and secure the the tubes into the Main Table. This is a point of reference for the rest of the Extension Table (or Floating Table) setup.

With the Extension Table and Main Table close together as shown in your photos, you should now be able to push the Extension Table tight against the Main Table and secure the thumb screws to secure it there.

Ahh.. I did all of that but the last step.. I don't recall reading that in the manual.. I put the tubes in and locked them down.. Ugg..

dusty wrote: Having done that, you now have to secure the Extension Table to the Extension Table Base.

Secure the washers and nuts finger tight on the studs that hold the Extension Table to the Extension Table Base. Get them all finger tight before you put a wrench on any one of them. Now snug the nuts on all four studs working around the table like you would securing the studs on your car tire. Now, once again, tighten all the nuts on all four studs.

This being done, you should have eliminated the original problem.

The tables should be the same height and square to one another.

NOTE: These tables doe not have perfect edges (machining detail) and there may be some inconsistencies that you just have to live with.

You may also have to loosen the front and rear rails from the table and then resecure them in the same manner as we did with the Table Base.

I hope this helps.

Thanks.. I'll finish this up and give it a shot.. Thx!

Rick
Don't make yourself crazy over this. Remember the actual table does nothing more than hold your work. The rail tubes determine if the fence is parallel.
You do need to insure the table is at the same plane as the main table but edges do not have to be parallel.

Also if you look at the new SS they have bosses cast onto the table and then they appear to be ground down. It appears to me that SS realized the tables weren't always perfect and engineered bossed to the table edges to insure a better alignment.

Thanks Ed for the comments.. I ultimately decided the same thing and adjusted things on the right side but skipped the left for the time being. Perhaps when I need to use it on the left I'll look into the adjustments there.

In the meantime, I was able to finish the adjustments including the riving knife which had a missing knob that mounted it to the undersaw guard -- until I remembered I ordered one and found it.. So, everything including the lathe is now ready to go!

I had some crappy 2x4 scrap sitting around and crosscut a piece off of it (yes, I had the upper/lower saw guards in place, and used safety goggles) using the miter guage.. Worked great (as expected). I then flipped it up and drilled a few holes in drill-press mode. Works mighty fine there too. I'm really going to have to clean the garage further though -- using the drill press is a bit cramped for me with too much stuff around the right end of the machine.

Now, I've just got to find something to make! I'd love to start out making a vanilla box using one of the following techniques (box joints, dovetail, mortise & tenon,etc).. Would this be a good way to verify the squareness of the saw settings? Seems like it would be..

Gentlemen,

This discussion forced me to go down to the shop and address a similar situation. When I purchased my 2nd Mark V a few weeks ago the former owner complained it was impossible to square the main table to the blade or the extension table. Well the blade was so close to square that only took a minute or two. The extension table was way off. I loosened both top and bottom adjusting nuts on all four posts and moved the main table within a quarter inch of the extension table then locked the headstock and table down tight. I laid a 5' level across the tables and begun adjusting for squareness and and height of all four corners. In a matter of about fifteen minutes all was square, level and locked down tight. Not bad for a one armed guy. The love of my life was giving me those looks associated with the surgeon saying, "No activity for that shoulder or arm at all for eight weeks," so I quit and stood enjoying my handy work. Man it felt good to do even something small for a change. Good luck with your tables. fjimp:p

fjimp wrote:Gentlemen,

This discussion forced me to go down to the shop and address a similar situation. When I purchased my 2nd Mark V a few weeks ago the former owner complained it was impossible to square the main table to the blade or the extension table. Well the blade was so close to square that only took a minute or two. The extension table was way off. I loosened both top and bottom adjusting nuts on all four posts and moved the main table within a quarter inch of the extension table then locked the headstock and table down tight. I laid a 5' level across the tables and begun adjusting for squareness and and height of all four corners. In a matter of about fifteen minutes all was square, level and locked down tight. Not bad for a one armed guy. The love of my life was giving me those looks associated with the surgeon saying, "No activity for that shoulder or arm at all for eight weeks," so I quit and stood enjoying my handy work. Man it felt good to do even something small for a change. Good luck with your tables. fjimp:p

Sounds like you had three good arms!!!:D

Thanks.. Interesting.. It doesn't surprise me that some people might give up assuming that something is manufactured wrong when it may just be a case of not knowing what to do and perhaps lack of patience when doing some of this -- this is certainly not SS specific but can apply to just about anything IMHO.

As for me, I think I'm in pretty good shape.. I've just got to find something to start out my WW tasks -- eh.. to whet my appetite for working wood.. To be completely honest, I almost don't know where to start. I'll look around for some books and magazine's I've got and see what I can dig up..