Squaring table to blade

[ramcam11]

This may have been addressed before but I could not find a thread. I put a thin kerf blade on the machine (510) and noticed the left hand clearence for the factory table insert is tight but doable (1/16") - until I put a floating table extension on the right side (Then it touches) unless I support it with the fixed extension table (Not sure if this is the correct nomenclature). Is this normal, is my setup wrong, or what else can I do to correct this problem? Makes me wonder how many angled cuts I have made over the years without realizing the problem. Any help woud be appreciated. Thanks.

[chiroindixon]

Sounds like some parts in your trunnions clamping system may be worn. Just placing one floater to the right hand side should not tip that main work table to the point that your blade clearance changes. The fact that this does not happen with the support legs in place seems to confirm my idea.

Shopsmith does recommend the use of those legs in order to avoid such deflection. I use my extension table with connecting tubes on the right side for same reason. I also have a second one to put on the left. Using the five foot tubes makes for a very solid and flat surface.

Any other thoughts out there?

Doc

[dusty]

I sure wish I could see this.

Unless you have just now installed a zero clearance insert, I cannot image that you have gone all this time with a serious alignment problem that also results in loss of clearance as you have described.

I would recommend that you start over like you had never done a table alignment before. I think that the following thread from this forum may address your situation.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=131

There are four posts written by Nick Engler in this post; the content of all of them IMHO should be in the Shopsmith Manual. Actually, they are in mine. I have made copies and put them there for future reference by my grandson.

Let us know how this works out. I hope this helps.
____________________
Making Saw Dust Safely

[Bruce]

Are you sure your carriage is all the way to the left? Maybe something is keeping it from going all the way left? My thin kerf blade runs right in the center of the slot. Something is surely not right.

[reible]

Please make sure you have the proper arbors and that the correct stop ring is installed.

The arbor sizes (lengths) are different between older versions and newer versions. The older ones are shorter the newer ones are longer (and those longer one are the ones you need for the 505/510/520). (I don't have length information at my finger tips but if there is a question as to what is the right length either I or someone here can get the information for you.)

The same for the stop ring, I don't have a 500's to look at but it is maybe 3/8" (1/2"???) wide while the 505/510/520 it more like 1-7/16".

The blade should be in the pretty much in the middle of the slot or something is not right.

This arbor issue would also show up when you install the upper saw guard with the alignment of the knife......

Ed

[charlese]

Guess I just fail to understand ramcam's problem. Was going to wait to see more posts hopefully to get more clarity. Still, I don't understand only more confused.

Seems if one loosens both the headstock and the carriage one can place the sawblade to either the right or the left side of the sawtable insert. One should be able to do this with the upper saw guard in place as it moves with the blade.

Want to thank Dusty for the link to the discussion on trunions.

Also have to ask reible - what is a stop ring? I really have no idea.

[reible]

Hi,

When you have the table carriage and headstock together they are seperated by a stop (rubber ring that is on the way tube) (part reference #189 on the carriage assembly for the 505/510/520, ref # 171 on the model 500 assembly). This provides the normal location of parts such that if you have the correct arbor it will place the blade in more of less the center of the table saw insert.

My concern was with the fact that the blade in this case was not centered but ended up very near the edge of the insert. Several combinations of factors could lead up to having this issue. I mentioned a few things I knew about but my list is no where as complete as to all possible issues/solutions.

The arbors for the model 500 has a length which is shorter then the length of the 505/510/520. With out doing a measurement the numbers are something like: model 500's are 1-5/8" and the 505/510/520 are 2-1/4"... now please check these numbers 'cause the mind is not what it once was.

When you have a 500 you need to have the correct stop ring and blade guards as well as arbors... same goes for the 505/510/520. The problems come when mixing hardware.

Clear as mud now???

Normally when the guards are in place this will sort itself out as they require things to be in the correct positions ie have the correct parts in place.

My post was ment as a general alert to those that have a mixed bag of parts around the shop or have gotten a used machine that may have been modified/built/used incorrectly. If things don't seem to lined up give it a check...


Ed

[charlese]

Thanks Ed! My 510 doesn't have a stop ring. Can't remember if I cut it off (don't think so) or the unit came without one. Haven't paid enough attention to the exploded diagram to notice a stop ring. Works fine without it!

[dusty]

It works fine because you haven't learned to rely on the short cut. The stop ring lets one slide the carriage up against the headstock without thinking and away you go.

Like ed so wisely states, 'If you don't have a mixed bag of parts'. Once you interject an arbor, not designed for yor 500/505/510/520 configuration, that predefined separation is no longer appropriate.

I discovered this when I used an arbor that I had to mount a Forrest sawblade with a 5/8" hole. Worked fine except that when I lower the table it struck the blade; had to move the carriage.

But this thread is a little vague abiut the exact problem. I am not certain we are all on the right track. Hope we get some feedback from ramcam11. His discussion about floating tables is what confuses me.

When the table tilts, it may interfer with an insert, depending on which insert. That could be normal. Need details.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely

[charlese]

The Stop ring sounds like such a handy rubber spacer I ordered one today along with some other repair parts in case of future needs. Had to take part in the 25% off sale which ends at midnight tonight.

Without the spacer stop ring from the get go, I didn't miss it. After finding out what it was - I immediately thought of my home made sliding table. I have been sawing away at the left edge of it since making it 2 years ago. (My sliding table works on the right side of the saw.) The sliding table is now so close to the right mitre slot that I have to remove the table insert before use. Seems the rubber ring will stop this problem as soon as I make a new sliding table. No Problem - that will only take about an hour.