Shopsmith Forums

KCollins wrote: ↑Sun Apr 07, 2024 10:41 am Well guys I can honestly say I definitely did not get a kick back but I cannot definitely say the wood did not move on me. It has in the past... I have had it close the saw kerf and pinch my riving knife and all sorts of issues in the past cutting this batch of walnut. So I can't rule it out but... I ripped a 5.25" by 34" board at 2.5". That first piece is straight as an arrow. The second piece I ripped had the arc to it. Why would one move and not the other? I had 3 boards that were 34" and all three of them did the same thing on the second cut. I could try cutting some other kind of wood to see if I have the same issue. That would be easy enough. If I can get the rain to let off long enough to the get saw out today I'll give that a try.

RFGuy wrote: ↑Sun Apr 07, 2024 6:53 pm Kevin,

I am no longer active on the forum, but I believe your post and the responses you received illustrates a point I failed to get across to other members of this forum in the past so I will interject here on this thread in one final attempt. IF this isn't your problem, I apologize for the following...Can you explain how you jointed the boards? What jointer was used, was it the Shopsmith 4" jointer? At the link below I discuss challenges with the Shopsmith 4" jointer, but I encourage you to watch the video shown there as it shows what I will explain next. What you describe and the pictures you show suggest the boards were not jointed fully IMHO and/or were jointed on a jointer with too short of a bed length. Step 1 with new lumber is to face joint the board to get one flat reference surface. This is problematic on the Shopsmith jointer because it is only 4" wide and also the bed length is too short (which means any curvature of the board will not be taken out). Step 2, once you have one flat face is to joint an edge making it exactly square to that flat face surface you referenced. Step 3 is to plane the opposite face side making it parallel to the other flat face from the jointer, but also reducing board thickness to final thickness dimension. Step 4 is to use the jointed edge as a reference against the tablesaw fence to rip the other edge parallel to it and reaching final width dimension. This process is the ONLY way to ensure a woodworker can take raw lumber or even surfaced lumber that is irregular from the big box store/lumberyard and make it perfectly square, straight and parallel on all sides. Yes, you will see YT videos of people suggesting other methods as a substitute to jointing for the shop that doesn't have a jointer. I have even seen people try to suggest they can joint on a tablesaw which isn't true. IF your lumber is fairly straight to begin with, has not internal stress when cut and isn't twisted, then a woodworker can often get by with just a tablesaw and achieve acceptable results most of the time. When your lumber is more natural and hasn't already been pre-milled for you, you MUST follow the steps I describe above to get acceptable results. I hope this helps.

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JPG wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2024 12:54 am I suggest thee stop chasing thy tail be comparing edges of different boards.

You need a known straight reference(straight edge or table surface) to critique each board edge.