Workbench

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat May 02, 2009 12:48 am

A couple of guys commented about my workbench seen in my other two threads (new shop layout and router table). I thought I would show another picture of my table and tell you about my table a little more.

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This bench started life as bowling alley. I was looking to buy Maple to build a work bench when I spotted an ad for bowling alley. I went there made a deal (got the wood for a song) and the guy cut me a piece off with a chain saw.
Got home split the alley down the middle. I then built a tool tray on the back end and framed it with maple around the perimeter. If you look closely at the top near the flashlight strap you will see on of the walnut inlays found on alleys marking ball position.

Originally I built wood legs for the table but one day in Sears they had this metal bench on sale for so cheap I couldn't walk away, so I took it home. I tore the legs off my bench and mounted the top on to the sears cabinet. It lived life for about 20 years that way. However a work bench against the wall is about useless to me and I couldn't leave it way from the wall as I park my truck inside. I needed the bench to move.
I asked about mounting benchs on wheels here on the forum and everyone had an opinion.

Woodcraft had a sale on casters what both locked the wheel and the swivel so I bought 4 and brought them home. First problem if I mounted the wheels the bench would be too high. So I jacked up each side of my bench and cut the metal legs off (hacksaw and recipocating saw (not a lot of fun)). I then built the plywood platform the cabinet and top is setting on mounted the casters and put the bench on it. I love it!!!!

I can now move it around my shop with ease. On the back of the bench under the over hang I have a sheet good storage and inside I store hand tools, drills and bits, measureing tools and etc.

While I love my bowling alley maple top, I have come to the conclusion it was a mistake. I know all the the traditional tables have maple tops and etc. However while nice to look at maple strips are not he best for table top. First I rarely use my bench with a tail or shoulder vise so the dog holes are more of a bother than useful. I usually clamp things on to it. Secondly even though the maple is sanded near perfectly flat seasonal changes in the humidity cause the top to pop out of perfect level. I'm convinced if the old masters had MDF when they built the first table no body would make a maple strip table top. My opinion! Oh yeah to keep the top looking like the table tops you see in all the pictures in "Fine Wood working". The top has to be sanded and refinished nearly every year. I last did this one about 6 months ago and you see how the top looks *ugly dirty and gouged". Not "Fine wood working pretty" that is for sure. Something to think about before you go to the expense of a maple strip top. Again my opinion!

My next plan is to remove my bowling alley top and build a top out of MDF with t-tracks running around the perimeter. MDF will stay nearly perfectly flat, is a very great surface to work on and the t-tracks will allow me to clamp most anything any way I want it.

Nothing I like better than to have a nice piece of walnut clamped down and hearing the swoosh of plane as it takes perfect curly ques off.

So there you have it my bowling alley, cut down sear work bench, woodcraft casters workbench with a tail vise hidden under the RAS table.

If I do take the bowling alley top off I wll probably sand it back down, refinish it and use it for a table top out on our back porch. Where it can stay pretty pristine with all the walnut inlays and such.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat May 02, 2009 2:23 am

Ed - you are a master of the scrounge!:) That's a good thing! Bet no one else has a couple of shop table tops from that old alley. When you finally replace with MDF, (if you do) Keep the maple for extra tops.

The three layer MDF top I have is really stable.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat May 02, 2009 12:36 pm

Great story Ed. Enjoyed reading it.

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Sat May 02, 2009 1:31 pm

Ed,
I have a suggestion. When/if you decide to make an MDF table top, why not cover the work surface with Masonite (hardboard)? That way, when the top needs resurfacing, just replace the Masonite. The Masonite is hard as a rock and won't need replacing as often as a wood or MDF top.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat May 02, 2009 2:49 pm

curiousgeorge wrote:Ed,
I have a suggestion. When/if you decide to make an MDF table top, why not cover the work surface with Masonite (hardboard)? That way, when the top needs resurfacing, just replace the Masonite. The Masonite is hard as a rock and won't need replacing as often as a wood or MDF top.

And just WHERE do you find "hard as a rock MASONITE"? I have not seen any 'oil tempered Masonite' for over 30 yrs. I have my work bench covered with a 1/8" sheet of it. Being able to replace the surface was the reason for doing it that way initially. Have NOT been able to replace it lately!:(

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat May 02, 2009 2:52 pm

curiousgeorge wrote:Ed,
I have a suggestion. When/if you decide to make an MDF table top, why not cover the work surface with Masonite (hardboard)? That way, when the top needs resurfacing, just replace the Masonite. The Masonite is hard as a rock and won't need replacing as often as a wood or MDF top.

George
I may do that but I found MDF saturated in Tung or Boiled Linseed Oil is very pleasing to the eye and nearly as hard as nails.
My RAS table is made from MDF which I liberally coated with 5 coats of BLO and so far the only mark in it is from the saw blade itself. Even a glass of ice left on it over night did absolutely no harm, wiped off the water and it was a good as new.
Like I said the oil finish of MDF is very pleasing to my eye. I made a few things from MDF for my daughters intending to paint them and they both insisted I leave them just oiled. It looks like polished suede or leather to me.

rolands · Post by **rolands** » Tue May 05, 2009 1:29 pm

Ed, I know what you mean about your work bench moving with ease around your shop. Years ago when Kmart was changing their Jewelry department they were throwing out the old earring counters. They are 2 feet wide and 6 feet long and 30 inches high. I asked if I could have two of them and they were glad to get rid of them. Took them home and put them back to back and bolted them together and put wheels on them. They work great and they just roll out of the way. They have storage underneath and the best part is they were free.