Shopsmith Forums

If I update my Greenie from a Gilmer to PolyV do I need everything in the ShopSmith upgrade kit (#556490, I rebuilt the old motor so am good to go with that)? I am not convinced I need the highspeed bearing quill.

Duckman wrote: ↑Thu Jul 04, 2024 5:58 pm If I update my Greenie from a Gilmer to PolyV do I need everything in the ShopSmith upgrade kit (#556490, I rebuilt the old motor so am good to go with that)? I am not convinced I need the highspeed bearing quill.

Yes, you do need the new quill as the splines on your existing quill will not fit the new poly V drive assembly. The splines on the end of the quill mesh with the drive assembly to turn the quill. The number of splines used has changed several times over the years so even if you are just replacing a quill for some reason, it must match the drive assembly.

Gilmer to poly-v change requires:
new idler sheave
new drive sleeve
new quill
new belt

Since doing all that I would include a new two bearing quill.

FWIW only two quill spline versions.(gilmer/poly-v)

JPG said

FWIW only two quill spline versions.(gilmer/poly-v)

Which is mostly true with the exception of the Mark 5 Goldies having the "C" suffix to their serial number. Mine is serial number 370596C made in April 1961. Those were made in 1961 between the change from the Gilmer Drive and the Poly V Drive. They have the Gilmer Drive, but the Drive Sleeve and Quill Assemblies are different. Below is a picture of the Quill and Drive Sleeve Assemblies from the Goldie "C" Mark 5.

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It's Drive Sleeve Assembly does not have splines inside the sleeve like the Ploy V Drive and uses a nylon drive attached to the Drive Sleeve Assembly by a screw. This Drive Sleeve and Quill Assembly is specific to the Goldie "C" Mark 5. These Goldie "C" Mark 5's can be upgraded to the Poly V Drive using the same parts needed to upgrade a regular Gilmer Drive Mark 5.

Thank you for the responses. I guess I will get the kit. I am afraid if I try to piece-meal it off ebay I will not get parts that work together.
My $35 greenie (serial number indicates a 53 or 54 production) is becoming more expensive. That kit is dang near $400. But I want a machine for sanding and thickness planer.

Duckman,

It isn't hard to find all the correct parts for changing to the Poly V Drive. Most sellers label them correctly. Pictures will indicate Poly V Drive parts by looking at them. Looking at a Poly V Drive Sleeve Assembly like the one shown below notice where the belt goes compared to your Gilmer Drive Assembly. It's how you can tell the difference and the matching Poly V Drive part of the Idle Shaft Assembly will have the same type of pulley.
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Do make sure the Drive Sleeve Assembly comes with the Ring and Drive indicated by the arrow in the picture above. As for the Quill it will have more splines than the Gilmer Quill.

A downside of buying used parts is what condition they are in. Saving a few bucks over buying new parts can have some hidden costs. If any of the Bearings in either the Idler Shaft Assembly, Drive Sleeve Assembly and/or Quill Assembly need replacing that will add to the cost of any used parts you buy. A damaged or missing Ring and Drive can also add to the cost of used parts. Don't forget to look at the shipping costs of the used parts which are generally higher than buying the new parts from Shopsmith.

If the serial number of your Greenie is below 288541 it was made in 1954 or if well below 263051 it could have been made in late 1953. The Mark 5 was introduced in March of 1954 and serial number 263051 is the first one made in April 1954 as shown in the records. Lower serial number have been seen but we can only guess when they were made, March 1954 or earlier.

It is a 1954. 271322

Serial number 271322 Was made in June of 1954.

From the picture of the Headstock below check to see if you have the parts # A3274 shown on the far left edge of the drawing. This is the Bearing Retainer (2 parts side by side) that was added to the early Headstocks. It keeps the Idler Shaft Bearing and Eccentric from moving back and forth in the Headstock casting. Without the Retainers only the clamping force of the casting holds the Idler Shaft Bearing and Eccentric in place. Too much pressure on the casting from the bolt and nut will crack the casting. This is one of the reasons for proper lubrication of the Sheaves. As sheave and shaft gets "sticky" from lack of lubrication the Idler Shaft Assembly tends to push in and out of the Headstock Casting when the Speed Dial is changed. Providing proper periodic lubrication of the Idler Shaft Sheave is difficult on the "A" Headstock because there is not the access hole behind the back Logo Plate on the Headstock. The later "B" Headstock corrected this problem and continued on the current "C" Headstock. Early Idler Shaft Sheaves did not have an oil hole either.

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I have the retainers but one is in rough shape. No idea how that happened. I got what I paid for. I was considering fabricating one out of aluminum. I am probably going to have to replace the idler shaft too and tht concerns me because of the new type.