Shopsmith Forums

Here is a little story about a mini and a mini restoration. I learned some tricks on the last Mark 5 that I shortened. I'll share with you how to shorten without completely dissembling the machine. Now it can't hold a light to the masterpieces some of you guys create but it is now solid, maintained and ready to work.

Edit: I should point out that you should clean and wax the tubes before starting this process. It is a lot harder later on and a portion of the tubes will always be covered by the power head because the tubes will be so short.

[ATTACH]4529[/ATTACH]



[ATTACH]4530[/ATTACH]

With the Mark 5 in drill press position and the carriage and head stock lowered as far as they will go it will balance very well on a solid support a little shorter than the leg. Don't forget to screw in the vertical lock. I wanted to remove the leg and clean the inside as well as clean an lubricate the casters, and re-tighten all bolts. I also cleaned the head rest while off of the machine.



[ATTACH]4531[/ATTACH]



[ATTACH]4532[/ATTACH]


With the head rest off it is easy to mark the amount you want to cut off. I cut 17 inches off of my first Mark 5. I decided to shorten this one 5 additional inches. This is the shortest that will work to keep the carriage assembly and be able to disconnect the SPT coupler. I am taking 22 inches out of the lower tubes. The tape helps in cutting square.



[ATTACH]4533[/ATTACH]

Now I re-attach the head stock using these two spacers cut to 26 inches. Now re-attach the leg and check the caster bolts.

For the next step it is good to have a friend. Or even an someone you don't like as long as they have a good back.



[ATTACH]4535[/ATTACH]

While still in the drill press position slide the head stock all the way up against the tie bar.





[ATTACH]4536[/ATTACH]



[ATTACH]4537[/ATTACH]

Lay one of the spacers across the head stock. The upper tubes will rest on this when you lay it down. Now slide the carriage up as far as it will go and remove and clean the tie bar.





[ATTACH]4538[/ATTACH]



[ATTACH]4539[/ATTACH]

Now with the Mark 5 in this position you can block up the other end. Get it about 2 inches off the floor and you can remove the other leg and repeat the leg maintenance.

The base and base arm should be cleaned on the machine.

[ATTACH]4541[/ATTACH]

Now re-attach the leg, check the caster bolts and remove the support.




[ATTACH]4545[/ATTACH]

Return the head stock and carriage to this position.





[ATTACH]4542[/ATTACH]

Now lay the head stock back down on one of the spacers as before. In this position you can hold the tie bar in place and mark the end of it on the upper tubes.





[ATTACH]4543[/ATTACH]

You will need to cut them about 1/4 inch shorter then this mark. If It doesn't lay down properly after re-attaching the tie bar you may have to go back an cut a little more off. Better to cut twice and measure once here. Before cutting use a 8 inch spacer between the upper and lower tubes.





[ATTACH]4544[/ATTACH]

Vacuum the shavings out of the tubes before re-attaching the tie bar.

[ATTACH]4547[/ATTACH]


Before I put this in service I will do a complete maintenance on the head stock. I cleaned all the outer parts with mineral spirits and plan a good waxing. Maybe I can con my nephew into that task. He wants me to teach him pen turning. I'll hand him a can of wax and a rag and say something like, The first step in turning pens is to wax every inch of the Mark 5.

I am curious why you did NOT just cut the same length off the way tubes as you did the bench tubes. I think that would be both easier and more accurate.

Also did you cut the bench tubes 17+5 or 23?

Thanks for the unassembled procedure.

JPG40504

The 23 was a typo. 22 is the correct length. Thanks for catching it.

I cut equal amounts of of the last Mark 5 I did and for some reason the upper tubes were about 1/2 inch shorter than they could have been. It still worked but for support on the tie bar end I decided to us this procedure to be more accurate. The discrepancy may have come about after re-tightening all the bolts and re-aligning every thing. You could always go back and re-set the lower tubes but in this case loosing 1/2 inch would make disconnecting the SPT difficult.

Thanks
Mark

mbcabinetmaker wrote:\
. . .

I cut equal amounts of of the last Mark 5 I did and for some reason the upper tubes were about 1/2 inch shorter than they could have been. It still worked but for support on the tie bar end I decided to us this procedure to be more accurate. The discrepancy may have come about after re-tightening all the bolts and re-aligning every thing. You could always go back and re-set the lower tubes but in this case loosing 1/2 inch would make disconnecting the SPT difficult.

Thanks
Mark

Makes me wonder if the first one had way tubes(3/4"shorter) for bench tubes also. I do NOT know how that could have happened!:rolleyes:

I don't suppose you measured them b4 hand(kinda hard if NOT totally detached).

P.S. Are you referring to removal of the SPT coupler above('makes SPT removal difficult')?

JPG

Yes I have about 1 inch to get the coupler off now. It will come off without binding but if it were much shorter it would be difficult. I went out and measured the tubes this morning after reading and responding to your post. The bottom tubes I cut off were 22 inches and the top tubes are 21 1/2 inches. I cant explain the difference. I checked before starting and they came all the way to the end of the tie bar. Had I cut them at 22 inches it would have been the same as last time. The tie bar will still tighten down with them that short so it would still work. I guess I am just a perfectionist.

Hey I've been called a Lot worse!:D

Mark

mbcabinetmaker wrote:JPG

Yes I have about 1 inch to get the coupler off now. It will come off without binding but if it were much shorter it would be difficult. I went out and measured the tubes this morning after reading and responding to your post. The bottom tubes I cut off were 22 inches and the top tubes are 21 1/2 inches. I cant explain the difference. I checked before starting and they came all the way to the end of the tie bar. Had I cut them at 22 inches it would have been the same as last time. The tie bar will still tighten down with them that short so it would still work. I guess I am just a perfectionist.

Hey I've been called a Lot worse!:D

Mark

This is a HOT button with me since I am about to create my own 'mini'. I am considering using a 'spider' coupling which would have an over all length of 2". Add another inch to decouple and it is shorter than the SS coupler.

The tube length is something I DO NOT UNDERSTAND! The tubes should have been 52" and 52 3/4" in length. Cutting an equal amount off EACH one should have worked!

I am not familiar with a 'spider' coupler. Please post more details.


Thanks
Mark