Easier Main Table Alignment

[edma194]

Something I mentioned over on the My Growth Rings website about table alignment and bad backs. Even if you have a good back it's annoying to adjust the main table bolts to get it aligned parallel to a sanding disk or saw blade or other method while in the horizontal (table saw) mode because the bolts have to be tightened from underneath while you hold it in position, or you have to tilt it then check that it's still where you want it after tightening the bolts.

Spending a couple of days in pain after the last alignment I did gave me time to think about this and I realized the main table alignment can be done in vertical (drill press) mode. You can reach the bolts underneath while holding the table in place and also adjust the tilt to 0° while standing up. I can't believe in the past 75 years nobody else ever thought of this. If somebody else did then you owe me an apology for keeping quiet about it.

[Starnesw]

I’m looking at aligning my used shopsmith. When I look at the four bolts that hold the main table, they are Allen head screws but don’t appear to give enough clearance to use an Allen wrench. What’s the secret?

[DLB]

I’m looking at aligning my used shopsmith. When I look at the four bolts that hold the main table, they are Allen head screws but don’t appear to give enough clearance to use an Allen wrench. What’s the secret?

There's a bunch of tricks, not so many secrets. I know you have a 510 or later from another thread, right? Sometimes the short side of a "L" key isn't long enough. Use the long side for the bolt and use a socket and extension as a handle on the short side. You'll have to tilt the table to reach two of the bolts, as EDMA (RIP) mentioned this is not ideal, as you'd really like for the table not to move while you tighten things down. I've never experienced that, but it would be ideal.

On a large number of machines, SS made the rear (IIRC) trunnion with smaller mounting holes than the front. The difference between hole size and bolt diameter is what allows some adjustment so this configuration is not ideal as there is almost no adjustment. Many of us drilled both of these holes out on a recommendation from SS, but you see used market machines all the time without this mod. My recommendation, if you have a trunnion with small holes, is to only drill out one of them and use the other as a pivot with the bolt left snug but not tight. It works out that it is best if the pivot is the bolt you can't reach without tilting the table.

Search the forum for "20 dollar bill trick" I'm not sure if all 510 and on machines should use this, but I always do. It helps the table tilt smoothly throughout the full range after alignment.

- David

[chiroindixon]

Yup... alignment can really be a PITA

the short side of a "L" key isn't long enough. Use the long side for the bolt and use a socket and extension as a handle on the short side A hassle? Yup... but demoed by Engler, so?

This problem can be solved in two ways.

Buy a longer allen wrench. (Something I think Andrew ought to add to initial purchase) Here's one.

https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-T-Han ... ref=sr_1_3?

Got the short "L" wrench? Take to a local welder... cut the long side... and graft/weld it to a socket to use with a rachet. I used a 1/4 socket. Works great..and aligns up easily.

Doc

[DLB]

In the previous millennium Shopsmith held "Sawdust Sessions." IIUC these could be attended physically or virtually and were also recorded. A couple of changes in management ago these recordings and an index were available on Shopsmith.com. They were of exceptionally poor audio and video quality, but exceptionally good content. Many are also available on youtube, though the quality may be further degraded and I don't know where to find the index. If you do a youtube search for 'shopsmith SS101' I think you'll find it. Each session is further divided into topics, you want "Alignment" which is the 520 main table alignment. I think it is fully applicable to 510 as well.

Most sessions were hosted by Nick Engler. This appears to be the key to Doc's 'demoed by Engler' reference. Nick actually used the reverse end of an adjustable wrench to increase torque via the short arm of the "L" hex key. I'm sure there are a multitude of options.

One of the most valuable part of this is how Nick derives the error tolerance of approximately +/- 0.020" over the diameter of the saw blade. You can save yourself some grief by checking if your machine is in tolerance and only aligning the main table if you get a result that is unacceptable to you. In the video, Nick somehow ends up with an error of only 0.002" and says if you get within 0.005" it is fine.

If someone here has the index it would be great content for one of the sticky Subjects at the top of Maintenance on the Forum.

- David