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Rusted Arbor
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 11:04 am
by guitarnut
Good morning all,
I have been wrestling with this arbor all morning and I can't get it free. The blade that came with my SS is rusted pretty badly and I have a shiny new Irwin ready to go, but I can't get the arbor loose. My gut tells me it's reverse thread but I have tried both directions...nothing.
I have soaked it with WD-40 for the last few days and let it sit. It doesn't seem to have helped at all. I think I have plenty of leverage but no go...see my set up.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor01.jpg
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor02.jpg
Any suggestions much appreciated. I may be looking at a new arbor
Peace,
Mark
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 11:20 am
by baddlad
I would try soaking the whole thing blade and all in either Evapo Rust, which is biodegradable or this other stuff I have used to help with rust that works even a little better than the evapo rust but isn't biodegradable called Phosphoric Prep & Etch, made by Klean Strip. This is also used to etch concrete so if you spill any on the concrete it turns the concrete white. It is great though for removing any rust on metals.
Jeff
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 11:59 am
by JPG
guitarnut wrote:Good morning all,
I have been wrestling with this arbor all morning and I can't get it free. The blade that came with my SS is rusted pretty badly and I have a shiny new Irwin ready to go, but I can't get the arbor loose. My gut tells me it's reverse thread but I have tried both directions...nothing.
I have soaked it with WD-40 for the last few days and let it sit. It doesn't seem to have helped at all. I think I have plenty of leverage but no go...see my set up.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor01.jpg
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor02.jpg
Any suggestions much appreciated. I may be looking at a new arbor
Peace,
Mark
Soak it(the threads) in K1 kerosene overnight. Also around the outer edge of the 'nut'. Kerosene is a common major ingredient in 'penetrating oil'.
Do NOT let the 'clamp wrenches' slip!!!!!! GOOD open end wrench would be conducive to better success. With a GOOD open end wrench(es) you can shock the rust by striking with a 'hammer'(one wrench). SECURE the other wrench firmly so it will NOT give. Do Not over do the hammer bit.
I Got It Loose!!!
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 12:18 pm
by guitarnut
Thanks for the replies baddlad and JPG!
I decided to "modify" my top clamp so I could get a better bite on the arbor. I cut away some of the casting on the back side of the handle...it was hitting the edge of the blade as I tightened down.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor04.jpg
Once I got a great bite on it, I noticed that I was able to move it a bit...but I was tightening it! It's standard thread! Hmmm. Anyway, I was able to spin it off with a wrench once I had broken it loose. Gnarled the nut a bit but I'll be replacing it soon anyway.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor03.jpg
Now, goin' to make sawdust.
Peace,
Mark
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 12:44 pm
by beeg
GOOD job getting it loose. SOMETIMES ya have to tighten it to get em loose.
Posted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:40 pm
by JPG
guitarnut wrote:Thanks for the replies baddlad and JPG!
I decided to "modify" my top clamp so I could get a better bite on the arbor. I cut away some of the casting on the back side of the handle...it was hitting the edge of the blade as I tightened down.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor04.jpg
Once I got a great bite on it, I noticed that I was able to move it a bit...but I was tightening it! It's standard thread! Hmmm. Anyway, I was able to spin it off with a wrench once I had broken it loose. Gnarled the nut a bit but I'll be replacing it soon anyway.
www.crenshawweb.com/arbor03.jpg
Now, goin' to make sawdust.
Peace,
Mark
Nuts on the side of the blade opposite the quill ARE right hand thread. Only those on the same side as the quill are left handed threads.
