Shopsmith Forums

I discovered a wobble or side-play in the quill (not the spindle bearings, which are tight) of my lightly used ShopSmith. By wobble/side-play I mean movement when the quill is extended from the housing. There was no wobble when the quill was retracted. The quill side-play was measurable with the quill extended 2". You can measure this side-play using feeler gauges.

The side-play existed mostly in the 3:00 o'clock to 9:00 o'clock (horizontal) plane while looking at the business end of the quill from the tailstock end. The vertical play is restricted by the set screw. I first noticed the side-play when I tried to use the Shopsmith for horizontal boring and I had the quill extended. It would also have been a problem if I had been using it in the drill press mode or with the mortising attachment.

As a note of reference, I purchased my ShopSmith reconditioned at a traveling show, but I have not had much time to use it until recently. The quill shows no wear. None. It looks like new. It still has all of its factory bluing/blackening. The inside of the housing shows no visible wear. The bearings are tight. I measured the diameter of the quill housing (1.742) and the diameter of the quill (1.739). You do need some play for a "sliding fit" or you will cause excess wear in the future.

I only have used the ShopSmith as a drill press twice, so I had not noticed this issue before. I mainly use the ShopSmith as a table saw, sander and twice as a lathe. I have a zero clearance insert, so I do not frequently adjust the blade by moving the quill in and out. I must add that this ShopSmith makes really clean, sharp cuts on oak using the original standard blade.

I looked for answers here and called the 800#. They said to tighten the set screw that impinges the top slot of the quill. That did not stop the side-play. They also said to look at the spline Drive and Ring Assembly. Nothing was worn there. The splines are like new. The also said to tighten the knurled ring. It had no effect on the side-play. My prior phone calls always produced a quick-fix or solution. I like this partnership, but no partnership is perfect.

Here is what I finally did:

I cleaned out the old wax with ethanol alcohol (probably should have used the acetone) and gave it a very very light scuffing with 600 grit wet-dry paper to make sure the glue had something to adhere to.

I secured a piece of .0015 steel shim stock. I superglued it into the side space between the quill and the housing with THICK slow-setting Superglue. I sprayed the shim (after placing it into position) with the acetone spray to set the Superglue. I also had a neoprene glove on my hand to prevent getting my fingers stuck to the Superglue (the glove did get a little stuck, but it released). The quill was not inserted until the glue was really dry.

The size of the shim was about 3/4" x 1". I dry-fitted the shim with the quill inserted. I bent 1/4" of the steel shim outside the housing as a tab to (a) be able to reverse the process, (b) see the position of the shim after the quill was inserted and (c) prevent the shim from traveling back into the housing in the event the glue did not hold. I placed the shim in the inside area between the 9:00 o'clock and 12:00 o'clock position where there is a broad surface and not just at the lip of the housing.

After the glue set up, I gave the shim one more light buffing to remove the excess glue and remove any high spots. I also burnished the surface of the installed shim with the shank of a screwdriver.

The quill was a little tight at first, but after a few strokes, it worked like it should AND there is no wobble with the quill extended. No wobble. Waxed the quill as always.

This repair is reversible.

I credit the Traveling Woodworking Academy for the confidence acquired to go about making this repair/modification.

I had several headstocks with this problem. If you tighten the Quill Lock Handle tight with the Quill Assembly fully extended and there is no play/wobble in the quill housing, then I start by removing the Quill Assembly from the headstock housing. Please Note: This not recommended by Shopsmith or several members of the SS forums, but it works for me. I then turn the Quill Lock Handle real tight and then loosen. This should force a very slight tighten of the headstock quill side ears. Then I reinstall the Quill Assembly to see if any play was removed from the sides. It should take several tries to remove all the side play and I recommend that you take the side play out in little steps. If I somehow overtighten the Quill Lock Handle too many times, the Quill Assembly may not go in. I have a spare quill housing that I insert and using a dead-blow hammer, tap it half way into headstock to create the needed clearence. If you have to use the regular quill assembly to create clearence, don't tap on the quill shaft. Remove the spindle knob and use a large pipe, large socket or a non-metal hammer to tap on the quill housing.

Bill Mayo

Wow! you had yourself a major problem! Must say your mechanical solution was very innovative! You really applied reason (and a shim) to accomplish making a quill that works.

The problem is - - That problem should never have occurred in the first place! I'm going to ask a couple of questions that may seem dumb. Sorry about that, but it just seems SS should have remedied the problem for you - or maybe they still can.

Did you tell SS on the phone of your measurements? Have you talked with one of their shop people? Maybe you can send your headstock to them and get a replacement - Free, except for shipping maybe. It doesn't hurt to ask! I know the company was very good to me when they sent me a replacement Crafters Station after I reported twice that it didn't work properly. After I gave up on the second Crafters Station, I bought a SS 510 and they gave me full credit on everything returned to them. I had actually talked with the shop foreman during the phone calls about the faults of the Crafters Station. (I don't think they make them anymore.)

Since your unit actually need a shim in order to perform correctly - this ought to be proof that the tolerances in your machine were faulty.

Incidentally, my quill has developed some lightening on the sides - more like polishing rather than wear marks. As your quill had none - this makes me suspect an over-sized housing.

P.S. I didn't read annbill.mayo's post before writing this - but a return may still apply - and together with annbill.mayo's post there is a mis-manufacture problem here - Shopsmith needs to be made aware of it. Probably will need serial numbers of the machines - annbill.mayo's and yours.

Best wishes

Re: I was wondering how your Shopsmith "shim" fix was holding up?

The shim is doing fine and it has eliminated wobble when the quill was extended.

I saw a parts sale on the spindle and decided that it might make sense to have a backup. This actually is known as the 2 bearing quill upgrade, but it also fits more recent machines that already have the 2 bearing quill. When I looked at some of the parts included (it even includes the quill) I bought it. When it came I compared it side-by-side to my old unit. Identical, but I found that there was more play in the bearing in my old spindle than the new one.

I had nothing to lose, so I removed the front bearing of my old spindle. Not hard to do if you have hand tools and patience, just follow the instructions on this website. The bearing is a very common one. I had one in my collection of extra machine parts (made in USA). I installed it. It works great. The last little bit of play is gone and I've been running with it and that old tight smooth saw cut is back. I do some precise stuff aka "fine woodworking" and I'm happy again.

The 520 upgrade made the biggest difference for me in my use of the Shopsmith. Well worth it.

The rotational (gear tooth?) play that you refer to is normal. When stopped, you can back the blade up say 1/8" at its periphery. I asked about that at one of the training sessions and checked other Shopsmiths. It is needed to allow the quill to extend and it occurs where the splines intersect the internal plastic gear that drives the spindle.

I'm keeping the spare spindle/quill for the day when I bend the spindle.