Riving Knife setup?

DC Ross · Post by **DC Ross** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 1:37 pm

Hey all,

I've just started using the SS's table saw, and I'm having a problem with the alignment of the riving knife. The knife is offset from the blade by about 3/32" to the right. It's stopping the workpiece & I have to grab the blade guard and bend it to the left (aligning it w/ the blade) in order to allow the piece to move past it. This isn't fun or safe.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 3:27 pm

It seems obvious that the table tops must be level with one another. I assume the groves you speak of on the outfeed table are groves for the miter gauge and yes, they too must line up.

BOTTOM LINE. I recommend that you pull the plug and do a complete table alignment.

What outfeed table are we discussing here. Is this a manufactured unit or a home built.

Is the riving knife the standard riving knife on a Shopsmith? I don't see how the riving knife can be malaligned; I suspect that the blade is not in its normal neutral position. Are you using standard arbors? Is the quill completely retracted? Do you have any sort of shims on the arbor? Is the upper saw guard installed properly?

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 4:12 pm

DC Ross wrote:Hey all,

I've just started using the SS's table saw, and I'm having a problem with the alignment of the riving knife. The knife is offset from the blade by about 3/32" to the right. It's stopping the workpiece & I have to grab the blade guard and bend it to the left (aligning it w/ the blade) in order to allow the piece to move past it. This isn't fun or safe.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Hi,

It sounds like a problem you need to fix before using this set-up.... I would not advise doing the bending operation you are now doing if you are doing that with a running machine.

First it would be handy to know which system you have.... 10E, 10ER, VII 500/505/510/520.... It would also be nice to know if you got the machine new or used....

As mentioned you should verify that the machine is aligned correctly.

For the moment lets say that is the case. Then the second most likely issue with what is happening is with the parts you have installed. Since the error is small you might want to start with the knife and make sure it is not bent...... if it is then that is the problem........ it will then have to be over bent in the opposite direction until it is straight again.

Ed

john · Post by **john** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 5:02 pm

I have had this happen and in each case the riving knife was not fully inserted in the slot due to interference from the lower saw guard, or my quill was not completely retracted which put the allignment off slightly.

Good luck.

John

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:32 pm

I'll go along with Dusty's assessment! Seems that you are using the wrong arbor. I assume the lower saw guard is in place so for the riving knife to be to the right of the blade your arbor has to be too short. Are you using another brand's 5/8" arbor?

When extending the quill when in the saw mode - the riving knife always goes along with the saw blade.

If you are using SS blades and arbor - then check to see if the knife is properly inserted into the clamp used to hold it - and tightened into place. There is a written proceedure in the setup instructions for the SS for aligning the riving knife. I can't quote it here, but recommend do this proceedure.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 12:50 am

If you using a 510/520 there is a set screw on the lower blade guard that pushed the lower blade in or out against the flange on the spindle to adjust the riving knife.

I don't have the manual in front of me but I know the set screw is there and it's us to adjust the riving knife. I just looked at it yesterday.

It is item 211 on the exploded parts view.
Ed

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 1:04 am

Another possibility- From the Alignment and Maintenance manual- there is a Stop Screw located below the Lower Saw Guard's collar. Use a 5/32" Allen wrench to screw in the Stop Screw (clockwise) a little bit, which will tilt the Riving Knife back to the left. You might have to take off and reinstall the blade, Lower Saw Guard, and Riving Knife a few times to fine-tune this adjustment so that the Riving Knife is directly behind the blade.

I had the workpiece stopped by the Riving knife a couple of times also, but it was because the arbor set screw was loose and the blade shifted to the right.

Finally had to replace the arbor set screw 'cause it just wouldn't stay tight. Now I'm paranoid and I "eyeball" the alignment just before every cut.

Gary

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 6:48 pm

The nice thing about this forum is it makes me go to the shop to make observations that I might not otherwise do.

I moved the headstock all the way to the left and the carriage/table all the way to the right.

I left the blade and arbor attached to the headstock along with the lower saw guard.

I then attached the upper saw gaurd to the lower saw guard.

This is a normal setup with the table moved out of the way so that you can see what happens when you:

1. Move the quill (riving knife moves with it)
2. Fail to install the arbor all the way unto the shaft or use wrong arbor
3. Adjust the setscrew on the lower saw guard (just below the drive shaft on the left side)
4. Install the upper saw guard incorrectly or not secured
5. Move the headstock (unrelated to relative position of riving knife and blade)

In this setup, a properly installed riving knife (splitter) is very easy to verify. The blade and the riving knife should set in the same plane. Use a straight edge to verify.

Note: Table alignment is in no way involved.

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