Shopsmith Forums

This thread shows a method of reassembling the quill and quill feed into a headstock. This thread is the second of three.
Note the positioning of the quill spring housing is incorrect. The index mark should point towards the set screw.

Slide the washers etc. onto the shaft. The flat washer first, ONE of the keyed washers with a 'knurled' surface facing OUT, followed by the dial/indicator, a second keyed washer with the 'knurled' surface facing IN and finally the quill feed stop 'wingnut'. Notice the 'knurled' surface of the keyed washers face the dial/indicator. The orientation of the dial/indicator may be random. Snug up the quill feed stop wingnut.

3/25/19 NOTE: retaining ring in pix behind flat washer is not included in older Mark 5.

12/28/19 Correction: It is the flat washer that is not included in earlier Mark 5s.
Sight down into the setscrew hole and align spring housing with previous marks left by the setscrew. You may need to loosen the wingnuts to orientate the housing etc.
Insert the setscrew and tighten securely.
Slip the nylon quill shaft/upper shaft coupler onto the upper shaft. Start the coupler onto the upper shaft by aligning the splines with the coupler. Apply sufficient further force to expand a spring inside the coupler which will cause the coupler to 'snap into place' in a groove in the upper shaft.
1) Place a hub/handle onto the quill feed shaft(either side).
2) Loosen BOTH wingnuts.
3) Advance the handle about 1 1/2 turns in the direction of quill advance(TOP towards the quill end of the headstock). More turns may be preferable if desired.
4) Tighten the quill lock wingnut.
5) Position the quill with the rack teeth towards the bottom of the headstock and gently start the quill into the quill bore. Gently push the quill until it stops against the quill feed gear. Do NOT allow the quill to become cocked in the bore. If it will not move with gentle pressure applied, back it out and start over(keep the quill feed handle under control at ALL times).
6) While HOLDING the handle so as to keep it from retracting, loosen the quill lock wingnut.
7) Simultaneously wiggle the handle and nudge the quill while slightly rotating back and forth the quill until it engages the gear and allows the quill to retract into the headstock.




This thread is intended to be ONE of several showing reassembly of a disassembled headstock. A single thread titled Headstock Reassembly https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3765 links to all of these threads. These threads will be edited as necessary to correct any errors or confusion.

This thread is the second of 3 showing quill and quill feed reassembly.

EDITED 3/25/19 to relocate pix as originally intended(forum SW change)

This is an excellent explanation on how to PROPERLY assemble the component. These photos are perfect for what I wanted and needed to see when I had quill issues. I could not have asked for better advice. Well Done!
TS

Thomschuck wrote:This is an excellent explanation on how to PROPERLY assemble the component. These photos are perfect for what I wanted and needed to see when I had quill issues. I could not have asked for better advice. Well Done!
TS

I edited the post to fix pix positioning caused by forum software change a while back(pix attached differently) and added a comment.

Yes that was the purpose of creating these posts.

Thank You for the kind words!

In step 3 above, 1-1/2 turns of pre-tensioning of the quill return spring, at the fully extended point, is recommended. Some sources, including Sawdust Session 7, recommend three turns and describe that as the original factory setting. I'm not suggesting that either of these is right and the other is wrong, more that they establish a range.

I find this entire thread on Shopsmith Reassembly to be an invaluable resource and thank JPG as the originator for its creation and maintenance. Is there a process for nominating the top level thread in this series to be 'thumb-tacked' under Maintenance and Repair?

-David

DLB wrote:In step 3 above, 1-1/2 turns of pre-tensioning of the quill return spring, at the fully extended point, is recommended. Some sources, including Sawdust Session 7, recommend three turns and describe that as the original factory setting. I'm not suggesting that either of these is right and the other is wrong, more that they establish a range.

I find this entire thread on Shopsmith Reassembly to be an invaluable resource and thank JPG as the originator for its creation and maintenance. Is there a process for nominating the top level thread in this series to be 'thumb-tacked' under Maintenance and Repair?

-David

I think this has to do with personal preference. I prefer a subtle minimal retract force. To me the proper amount of tension is when the return spring will reliably return the quill to it's non-extended location when used in vertical mode. I think the factory prefers a more stout return force. That is understandable as time and wear will likely diminish the resultant force.

So do it 'your' way!

With the oscillating Sander attachment you definitively need a more robust spring return.

jsburger wrote:With the oscillating Sander attachment you definitively need a more robust spring return.

More robust, or quicker responding?

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:With the oscillating Sander attachment you definitively need a more robust spring return.

More robust, or quicker responding?

More robust tension = quicker responding.