Anti-kickback pawls falling

[adrianpglover]

No pictures, but I was using my mark 7 in the TS mode a few days ago and the anti-kickback pawls ended up getting so loose that they were falling from the vibration of the saw, and not allowing my work to pass through the saw. I never liked the design of these as they seemed like they barely work, so I just took it to my bench grinder and ground the head of the rivet off. I have the pieces to it, but need to collect them (one or to pieced ended up on the floor under something). I figured I might put them back later, but wanted to find out what others have done when they've run into similar issues here.

[adrianpglover]

I guess not.

[chapmanruss]

adrianpglover,

The problem you have is not something I have experienced so I didn't answer previously. I have 3 sets of the Upper and Lower Saw Guard sets for the Mark V 510/505, 520 and Mark 7. Besides those I have several other Shopsmith Saw Blade Guard sets. The anti-kickback pawls on the Mark V 510/505, 520 and Mark 7 Upper Saw Blade Guard are different than other Saw Blade Guards and I can imagine how they could become loose and cause that problem.

[adrianpglover]

I think I'm just going to leave them off. I only use the TS mode on my shopsmith for plywood sheets. For everything else I'll use the cabinet base table saw. Even there, I keep the kickback pawls pulled up because they tend to scratch the wood. I use anti-kickback rollers and feather boards much more often.

[GetterDone]

Most of the ones on my guards are in good shape.

It kind of looks as if they were used only on occasion.

[adrianpglover]

I've not used mine much either. I would usually try to pull them up and out of the way. I've never had a kickback where they needed to engage, but still. It just loosened up on me enough to finally start falling just from the vibration of startup, and then if I raised them it would fall even without the machine running.

[DLB]

I don't really use mine much either. For ripping I use JessEm stock guides, which includes anti-reverse, along with a riving knife. For most other cuts I like a sacrificial fence for control, which isn't compatible with the USG so here I'm using a riving knife. I have the SS "non through cut" riving knife and a taller one with a little more coverage that I made from a USG, so if I'm using the TS with a 10" blade the riving knife is always there. But about that USG, I thought that the anti-reverse mechanism is supposed to be somewhat loose in the slot, and would naturally tend to fall in the angled slot when no workpiece is present.(?)

- David