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Pin router
Is there an advantage to buying a new overarm package that attaches to your mark 5 compared to the stand alone version you can find on ebay?
Hi,
The new overarm pin-router package for Mark V Mount can be like an old OPR system -- as well as like an older Joint Matic. You get the advantage of being able to put the worktable at any angle (well, horizontal and vertical angles at least). Also -- if you work the sales right, you may not pay much more for the new one than a used one!
Have fun,
The new overarm pin-router package for Mark V Mount can be like an old OPR system -- as well as like an older Joint Matic. You get the advantage of being able to put the worktable at any angle (well, horizontal and vertical angles at least). Also -- if you work the sales right, you may not pay much more for the new one than a used one!
Have fun,
Chris
-
dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
The greatest disadvantage I see is that if the older versions are no longer supported my Shopsmith one might have trouble doing repairs. Only a user can provide reliable information in that regard.cliddle wrote:Is there an advantage to buying a new overarm package that attaches to your mark 5 compared to the stand alone version you can find on ebay?
If the price was right and the condition was good, I'd be inclined to buy (old or new).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
As far as I can tell - the stand alone opr attaches to a single vertical post, while the new one mounts to the two way tubes.
There are also some differences in tables. If you search for some of Ed reible's posts you can see pictures of the old style table.
One advantage of the new OPR is that it can do horizontal routing. Previous to this, I think you needed to get a Joint Matic type set up. Nick has shown us (in Sawdust Sessions) how to build our own sliding table for use in the horizontal mode.
There are also some differences in tables. If you search for some of Ed reible's posts you can see pictures of the old style table.
One advantage of the new OPR is that it can do horizontal routing. Previous to this, I think you needed to get a Joint Matic type set up. Nick has shown us (in Sawdust Sessions) how to build our own sliding table for use in the horizontal mode.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Hi,
I'm likely to get a bit wordy so if you get bored sorry but one of my passions in life is routing and well talking about routing.
I have the older version, I was able to get it off ebay as shopsmith stopped selling them quiet a number of years back. I got it before they announced the new version that they now sell. As Chuck mentioned I have several posts showing the older version, one of which is here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2755
What is shown is "Routing System" and mine was pieced together over several months starting with the basic router arm. It had the original wood table, but it came with no pins. I was unable to ever locate any and gave up and made some nylon ones to use. I then located a table and stand. The table was basically a router table with the router mounted below the table. That version of table seemed to be a bit sensitive to damage and the one I got had a major flaw. I was able to repair it. As designed I mount the router arm to the stand and the table to the router arm. This way you have both a conventional router table and an over head router. I later got a better table and the set of casters and the power switch. I have seen several systems like this sell for in excess of $500 on ebay.
The good/bad news on this sort of system is that shopsmith sells only things that are common hardware between the two systems. So you do have access to some new parts but others could require waiting on ebay sales, making the parts, having someone make the parts... I have also seen some of these units on ebay with out the vertical tube or without the horseshoe shaped base... Those parts are critical and not easy to come by. Things like the pins for the pin router you can get from shopsmith, like wise most of the parts for the head. Caution is the word when parts are missing.
It is a mixed bag with the capacities and capabilities between the two systems. Chuck mentioned that the new system can do some of what the Joint-Matic can do (but not all). The solution is to own both which I do. Things like pin routing the advantage would go to the old system where you can pin route from either the top or bottom. That is unless the issue is size where the new system can give you more room between tubes and bit. It really depends on what you are going to do with it. So far both camps seem happy and I have yet to here anyone get rid of what they have for the "other" version.
The other thing to think about is that the old system is standalone and take up floor space. The new system attaches and detaches for storage. I personally don't mind playing with my shopsmith but a few people have decided to pull the headstock off a shopsmith frame and keep the newer version mounted, as standalone arrangement. If you are interested in that idea a bit of searching should yield some discussions on that.
If I missed anything feel free to ask.
Ed
I'm likely to get a bit wordy so if you get bored sorry but one of my passions in life is routing and well talking about routing.
I have the older version, I was able to get it off ebay as shopsmith stopped selling them quiet a number of years back. I got it before they announced the new version that they now sell. As Chuck mentioned I have several posts showing the older version, one of which is here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2755
What is shown is "Routing System" and mine was pieced together over several months starting with the basic router arm. It had the original wood table, but it came with no pins. I was unable to ever locate any and gave up and made some nylon ones to use. I then located a table and stand. The table was basically a router table with the router mounted below the table. That version of table seemed to be a bit sensitive to damage and the one I got had a major flaw. I was able to repair it. As designed I mount the router arm to the stand and the table to the router arm. This way you have both a conventional router table and an over head router. I later got a better table and the set of casters and the power switch. I have seen several systems like this sell for in excess of $500 on ebay.
The good/bad news on this sort of system is that shopsmith sells only things that are common hardware between the two systems. So you do have access to some new parts but others could require waiting on ebay sales, making the parts, having someone make the parts... I have also seen some of these units on ebay with out the vertical tube or without the horseshoe shaped base... Those parts are critical and not easy to come by. Things like the pins for the pin router you can get from shopsmith, like wise most of the parts for the head. Caution is the word when parts are missing.
It is a mixed bag with the capacities and capabilities between the two systems. Chuck mentioned that the new system can do some of what the Joint-Matic can do (but not all). The solution is to own both which I do. Things like pin routing the advantage would go to the old system where you can pin route from either the top or bottom. That is unless the issue is size where the new system can give you more room between tubes and bit. It really depends on what you are going to do with it. So far both camps seem happy and I have yet to here anyone get rid of what they have for the "other" version.
The other thing to think about is that the old system is standalone and take up floor space. The new system attaches and detaches for storage. I personally don't mind playing with my shopsmith but a few people have decided to pull the headstock off a shopsmith frame and keep the newer version mounted, as standalone arrangement. If you are interested in that idea a bit of searching should yield some discussions on that.
If I missed anything feel free to ask.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
This post has been copied from another thread - It fits better here!
--cutting/routing slots through the new OPR table is not necessary for many operations. However the shopsmith aluminum fences leave much to be desired. I routed slots to improve the machine's capabilities.
Before routing the slots, I used a longer piece of UHMW Plastic for a fence. I drilled one side of the plastic, screwed it to the table and clamped the other side. Pivoted the fence to adjust it.
After routing the slots, I now have a 3/4" X 4" straight piece of poplar that I use for a fence. NOTHING fancy here! It (the fence) can be installed on it's face or on it's edge. It is VERY easily adjustable.
[ATTACH]5131[/ATTACH]
Here a a couple of photos. As you look at them PLEASE realize the two holes on the inner side of the fence were made in error. If you make these slots - DO NOT MAKE THE HOLES ON THE INNER SIDE OF THE TABLE. This shows the oak filler I have put into the bottom of the counter bore.
[ATTACH]5132[/ATTACH]
I have since inserted oak into the bottom of the slots and cut the rabbets into the oak. This is a lot more firm than the inside of the fiber table. It also covered the hole from the bottom.
With the wood fence, I can now use the fence on either side of the router. The next photos shows a set-up for routing a dado into the center of a shutter rail.
[ATTACH]5133[/ATTACH]
The last photo shows using the same fence with a sliding table to use in horizontal boring.
[ATTACH]5134[/ATTACH]
--cutting/routing slots through the new OPR table is not necessary for many operations. However the shopsmith aluminum fences leave much to be desired. I routed slots to improve the machine's capabilities.
Before routing the slots, I used a longer piece of UHMW Plastic for a fence. I drilled one side of the plastic, screwed it to the table and clamped the other side. Pivoted the fence to adjust it.
After routing the slots, I now have a 3/4" X 4" straight piece of poplar that I use for a fence. NOTHING fancy here! It (the fence) can be installed on it's face or on it's edge. It is VERY easily adjustable.
[ATTACH]5131[/ATTACH]
Here a a couple of photos. As you look at them PLEASE realize the two holes on the inner side of the fence were made in error. If you make these slots - DO NOT MAKE THE HOLES ON THE INNER SIDE OF THE TABLE. This shows the oak filler I have put into the bottom of the counter bore.
[ATTACH]5132[/ATTACH]
I have since inserted oak into the bottom of the slots and cut the rabbets into the oak. This is a lot more firm than the inside of the fiber table. It also covered the hole from the bottom.
With the wood fence, I can now use the fence on either side of the router. The next photos shows a set-up for routing a dado into the center of a shutter rail.
[ATTACH]5133[/ATTACH]
The last photo shows using the same fence with a sliding table to use in horizontal boring.
[ATTACH]5134[/ATTACH]
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- completed slot.jpg (132.5 KiB) Viewed 6879 times
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- HPIM1514.jpg (120.39 KiB) Viewed 6881 times
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- HPIM1633.jpg (130.37 KiB) Viewed 6932 times
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- setting_up_for_routing_tenon.jpg (129.93 KiB) Viewed 6882 times
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Sliding Table Serendipity
Well, I still haven't cut into my OPR table....
Luck of luck, lately as I trolled the subdivision trash piles, I got a piece of particlewood with good laminate on each side. I let it sit for a few weeks then decided to see if it would make a good sliding table for my OPR, like the one shown in Fig. 10-16 of the following page:
http://www.woodworkingrouting.com/page6.htm
I won't bore you with a picture, but it was *exactly* the right size to fit on the OPR table with a 3/4" oak guide bar attached on each side. Furthermore it is *exactly* big enough to stick over the edge of the OPR table in horizontal mode and serve as the sacrificial surface in which to "bury the bit" of the router.
When I got the Mark V I initially didn't want to make any jigs, but as time has gone on I like doing this -- especially when they're free!
Luck of luck, lately as I trolled the subdivision trash piles, I got a piece of particlewood with good laminate on each side. I let it sit for a few weeks then decided to see if it would make a good sliding table for my OPR, like the one shown in Fig. 10-16 of the following page:
http://www.woodworkingrouting.com/page6.htm
I won't bore you with a picture, but it was *exactly* the right size to fit on the OPR table with a 3/4" oak guide bar attached on each side. Furthermore it is *exactly* big enough to stick over the edge of the OPR table in horizontal mode and serve as the sacrificial surface in which to "bury the bit" of the router.
When I got the Mark V I initially didn't want to make any jigs, but as time has gone on I like doing this -- especially when they're free!
Chris
I have two stand alones. Only one is set up. I use a Jessem table and fence and have a big Freud 3.25 hp router on the bottom. One cannot come close to any other genuine pin router for the money. The rack controlled head has not been changed so repairs there should remain simple. Since I have two SS's, I really want to buy the attachable model-sale is on-but I don't need another marginal table and fence setup. All three of my router table units use Jessem. It is just a fact- the SS table is pathetic.Mike T.
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.