Shopsmith Forums

Some time ago there were several discussions and photos about the various quill shaft designs used with the earlier two-bearing poly v quills. Specifically, the two-piece shaft with the roll pin. I can't seem to find that info now. Anyone remember the threads or postings??

I have a '63 goldie that came with a two-bearing quill upgrade from the previous owner. It has always had what I think is excessive backlash at the saw blade tip. It measures @ .125 to .130 if I remember right. Shortly after I got the machine a couple of years ago, I replaced the drive sleeve which included a new drive ring. This seemed to help at first but in a short while, the same issue was still there.

My questions for our expert rebuilders and others are: If I disassemble the quill, and if I find it has a two-piece shaft with a loose roll pin, has anyone had success with replacing the roll pin with a tapered pin? Also, if I don't see an obvious cause, how does this amount of backlash compare to other machines (newer or older)? Any thoughts or experience info would be appreciated.

Thanks, John McCrossen

johnmccrossen wrote:Some time ago there were several discussions and photos about the various quill shaft designs used with the earlier two-bearing poly v quills. Specifically, the two-piece shaft with the roll pin. I can't seem to find that info now. Anyone remember the threads or postings??

I have a '63 goldie that came with a two-bearing quill upgrade from the previous owner. It has always had what I think is excessive backlash at the saw blade tip. It measures @ .125 to .130 if I remember right. Shortly after I got the machine a couple of years ago, I replaced the drive sleeve which included a new drive ring. This seemed to help at first but in a short while, the same issue was still there.

My questions for our expert rebuilders and others are: If I disassemble the quill, and if I find it has a two-piece shaft with a loose roll pin, has anyone had success with replacing the roll pin with a tapered pin? Also, if I don't see an obvious cause, how does this amount of backlash compare to other machines (newer or older)? Any thoughts or experience info would be appreciated.

Thanks, John McCrossen

FWIW My 63 Goldie with ORIGINAL quill has about the same amount of backlash at the tip of a 10" blade. My recollection is that it has ALWAYS been there. The splined quill shaft, the nylon coupling and the drive shaft splines are the culprits.

My recently acquired 86 510(with two bearing quill(I think) has about the same amount.

Is it creating a problem, or have you just noticed it???

John - I believe Ed (reible) has had his two part quill apart. He has shown photos. You might PM him, or he might jump in here/

JPG, I have been living with it ok until the last couple of months. I seem to having increasing difficulty with both ripping (especially harder woods) and cross cutting. I will resharpen or replace a couple of blades, but the backlash has always bothered me and I got to thinking that maybe the amount of play in the drive could be a factor as the blades get used, so I was looking for some opinions about how much is sort of "normal". I will say that my other goldie with a Gilmer drive has minimal backlash so maybe "improved" isn't always better.

Thanks for the responses so far. John

Hi,

I remember the postings but I have no idea what to search for. I have pictures of the two piece quill but there is no discussion related to this issue in that thread.

If I think of anything related that would provide a better search I'll let you know.

Ed

charlese wrote:John - I believe Ed (reible) has had his two part quill apart. He has shown photos. You might PM him, or he might jump in here/

I have disassemblied 4 different Shopsmith made double bearing quills. 2 with 2 piece shafts (one with rollpin and one just a press fit) and 2 with one piece shafts. Most of the bearings are different for each quill and each shaft is unique to its quill housing.

I have only measured the side deflections of the saw blade or disk sander to check for bearing wear. I never looked at back lash as I do not understand why that would affect the operation of the blade or disk. I have found that the main table & fence alignment to the saw blade has the greatest effect when ripping boards. Of course, I am still learning each day.

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Hi,

Had to some deep digging but this is the thread I remember about the subject:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=446

Hope it is the one you were looking for.

(note the thread number)

Ed

johnmccrossen wrote:Some time ago there were several discussions and photos about the various quill shaft designs used with the earlier two-bearing poly v quills. Specifically, the two-piece shaft with the roll pin. I can't seem to find that info now. Anyone remember the threads or postings??

I have a '63 goldie that came with a two-bearing quill upgrade from the previous owner. It has always had what I think is excessive backlash at the saw blade tip. It measures @ .125 to .130 if I remember right. Shortly after I got the machine a couple of years ago, I replaced the drive sleeve which included a new drive ring. This seemed to help at first but in a short while, the same issue was still there.

My questions for our expert rebuilders and others are: If I disassemble the quill, and if I find it has a two-piece shaft with a loose roll pin, has anyone had success with replacing the roll pin with a tapered pin? Also, if I don't see an obvious cause, how does this amount of backlash compare to other machines (newer or older)? Any thoughts or experience info would be appreciated.

Thanks, John McCrossen

There is a lot of discussion in the thread that Ed (reible) found for us. There are also very good photos of the rollpin in post #38 of that thread - by jcbrowne.

The backlash in my machine has varied from time to time, I am guessing it is caused by the play in the plastic coupler (Drive and Ring Assembly PN 514083) or the (Drive Sleeve Assembly, PN 518145) . I have not figured out which part is which from the exploded diagram. My guess is it would be the most expensive! A phone call to SS would answer this, but I've not made one, as yet. As long as the Mark V is still working, I'll hold off on getting a replacement. (just to see if that's the cause)

Good luck! And thanks Ed, for your search and the link!:)

Ed and all, Thank you for the research and information. Yes, you found exactly what I was looking for. I probably do not have a problem with excessive backlash (my word) or lag. With all of this info, I can easily verify any wear issues and then focus on the saw blades. I have been rechecking all of the alignments and have not found any big issues so far.

Thanks again to all. This was a great refresher that I will save so I won't have to ask again in two years. John McCrossen