Is there a way to set the knives with a dial indicator? I have used the gauage but cannot seem to get the knives level. The bed is square to the cross rods. I put a peace of spacer between the knife and bed and raise the bed untill it just touches on one end, slide it to the other side and it's high or low. I have it set just like the manual says, I think. Seems to me like there must be a better way to do this.
I'm new to this. The planner I got from my Dad is a 1982 model, and has it's own stand.
Thanks;
Leo
Planner Knife adj.
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dusty
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Jointer/Planer Knife Adjustment
yes, alextran. There is a way to use a dial indicator and I will search for the routine and will post it here later. However, the procedure in the Shopsmith manual is the procedure that I follow; even though I have a dial indicator.
The secret to blade alignment, in my opinion, is to take your time and work with the primary objective of "getting all blades the same". I strive for the blades to be above outfeed table height by about the thickness of a piece of wax paper (kitchen wax paper).
I do use my dial gauge to set the jointer infeed table to the same height as the outfeed table and to adjust the table height indicator for "0". I do this as a first step.
Work one blade at a time. When tightening the retaining screws, tighten the center first and then each of the outside screws.
After I have sharpened the blades, I begin installation by setting all of the height adjustment screws "all the way in" and then "back out about two turns". Attempting to get them all the same.
Then insert the blade, then the wedge (with proper alignment to the roller), then the three retaining screws. The retaining screws should be in place and thats all (not tight). Then start setting the height adjustment screws.
Proper height, level (the same) all the way across, secured, and then recheck. Go on to the next blade.
After you are all done, recheck the wedge locks screws to make certain they are tight, and check the height. Here is where you might want to reintoduce the dial gauge. To make certain that each blade is the same height as the others.
After you have done this a time or two, you will spend about one half hour doing the entire routine. Until then, it might be as much as an hour or two. It is tedious work. I try to do it when no one else is around and I leave the cell phone in the house.
Almost the same routine applies to the planer. Except that the table is one piece and you don't worry about the relationship of the infeed/outfeed table. Different number of screws and wedge locks but the same principle.
The blades are SHARP and they bite. Be careful. Take your time.
The secret to blade alignment, in my opinion, is to take your time and work with the primary objective of "getting all blades the same". I strive for the blades to be above outfeed table height by about the thickness of a piece of wax paper (kitchen wax paper).
I do use my dial gauge to set the jointer infeed table to the same height as the outfeed table and to adjust the table height indicator for "0". I do this as a first step.
Work one blade at a time. When tightening the retaining screws, tighten the center first and then each of the outside screws.
After I have sharpened the blades, I begin installation by setting all of the height adjustment screws "all the way in" and then "back out about two turns". Attempting to get them all the same.
Then insert the blade, then the wedge (with proper alignment to the roller), then the three retaining screws. The retaining screws should be in place and thats all (not tight). Then start setting the height adjustment screws.
Proper height, level (the same) all the way across, secured, and then recheck. Go on to the next blade.
After you are all done, recheck the wedge locks screws to make certain they are tight, and check the height. Here is where you might want to reintoduce the dial gauge. To make certain that each blade is the same height as the others.
After you have done this a time or two, you will spend about one half hour doing the entire routine. Until then, it might be as much as an hour or two. It is tedious work. I try to do it when no one else is around and I leave the cell phone in the house.
Almost the same routine applies to the planer. Except that the table is one piece and you don't worry about the relationship of the infeed/outfeed table. Different number of screws and wedge locks but the same principle.
The blades are SHARP and they bite. Be careful. Take your time.
Thank you for your reply,
I have no problem with my jointer knive adjustment, I've got that down pretty good with the dial indiactor, but your right about comeing up a little bit, I have them set at 0 with the outfeed and every once in a while I can feel the wood bump the outfeed as I come into it.
However, what I an trying to accoumplish is a way to use a dial indicator to set the planner knives. I set them with the flat gauage and the mark at 7/16 ths from the bottom corrner, it just starts to lift the gauage when the knife hits the mark, I do both ends then the middle, then I roll the knive dowm to the table and raise the table untill a spacer just makes contact at bottom dead center, I then slide the spacer to the other side and it is either high or low, I know the table is dead flat and square to the cross bars, the knife holder is square to the table. What I am trying to figure out is a way to mount a dial indicator to the rear cross bar and be able to set the knives where you can see what you are doing and get to the screws.
Thanks again;
Leo
I have no problem with my jointer knive adjustment, I've got that down pretty good with the dial indiactor, but your right about comeing up a little bit, I have them set at 0 with the outfeed and every once in a while I can feel the wood bump the outfeed as I come into it.
However, what I an trying to accoumplish is a way to use a dial indicator to set the planner knives. I set them with the flat gauage and the mark at 7/16 ths from the bottom corrner, it just starts to lift the gauage when the knife hits the mark, I do both ends then the middle, then I roll the knive dowm to the table and raise the table untill a spacer just makes contact at bottom dead center, I then slide the spacer to the other side and it is either high or low, I know the table is dead flat and square to the cross bars, the knife holder is square to the table. What I am trying to figure out is a way to mount a dial indicator to the rear cross bar and be able to set the knives where you can see what you are doing and get to the screws.
Thanks again;
Leo