Screws and nuts that hold belt cover on
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Screws and nuts that hold belt cover on
On my model 500 (and I assume the newer 510s and 520s), the belt cover is held on with two pan-head screws and two of those simple, stamped, clip-on nuts (sorry, I have no idea what they're really called). Has anyone found a better way? Those nuts get bent easily and don't hold well.
Thanks!
Earl Morton
Kent, WA
Thanks!
Earl Morton
Kent, WA
Earl Morton
Kent, WA
Kent, WA
Alternative Found but not much improvement.
I replaced the screws and Tinnerman clips w/metric equivalent clips and screws from Tacoma Screw, on Central Avenue in Kent. The replacement clips were tighter and less likely to be knocked off into the motor pan. The difference did not make much difference, and the thinner clips were more difficult to put in place for the thicker belt cover holes positions.
Since then, I have shimmed the stock clips w/paper to hold the back pmotor pan clips in place. The screw has to penetrate the paper when the screw is reinstalled.
There are some automotive clips, with threaded receivers that may work, but they are for sheet metal applications and would be difficult to install on the casting at the belt cover holes.
Bill Mayo has a postingon replacements for headstock screws.
Since then, I have shimmed the stock clips w/paper to hold the back pmotor pan clips in place. The screw has to penetrate the paper when the screw is reinstalled.
There are some automotive clips, with threaded receivers that may work, but they are for sheet metal applications and would be difficult to install on the casting at the belt cover holes.
Bill Mayo has a postingon replacements for headstock screws.
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- dusty
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wa2crk wrote:Hi Guys
Grasp the Tinnerman clips with a pair of pliers just forward of the rounded end and give a light squeeze. This should tighten them up a bit,
Bill
I have done these successfully many times but occassionally you may find a Tinnerman that has lost its ability to hold.
I went looking on the web and was not able to find what we are discussing under "Tinnerman". I need find "U" type speed nuts that I believe are the same things and will work.
http://www.abcorfasteners.com/U%20Nuts.htm
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- JPG
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I have not tried this, nor do I know if they are still available, but try threaded pop rivets with an internal tooth lock washer behind. Then a bolt will screw into the pop rivet threads.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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JPG40504 wrote:I have not tried this, nor do I know if they are still available, but try threaded pop rivets with an internal tooth lock washer behind. Then a bolt will screw into the pop rivet threads.
This would probably work BUT to use pop rivets you have to drill a hole large enough for the rivet. Most of you will not be handicapped with my obsession with drilling holes in my Shopsmith so this will likely work. If anyone tries it, please let me know.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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Here is a list of 135 diferent kinds of those nuts. Sometimes called J nuts and U nuts. They are even spec-d to various thickness of metals. http://www1.mscdirect.com/U,-J-&-Cage-N ... 06652.HTML
You should be able to find a clip or two at a local hardware. The neat thing about the clips is they use a screw rather than a bolt. Easier to replace a screw and not as exacting.
You should be able to find a clip or two at a local hardware. The neat thing about the clips is they use a screw rather than a bolt. Easier to replace a screw and not as exacting.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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mickyd wrote:My Greenie uses type F thread cutting screws which self thread into the casting.
[ATTACH]5205[/ATTACH]
AND more than TWO of them!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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I finally got around to tinkering with this issue more, and started with this suggestion. (It was the easiest!) For now it seems to have worked great. I think I can live with this and replacing the clips with new ones occasionally when they lose their spring.wa2crk wrote:Hi Guys
Grasp the Tinnerman clips with a pair of pliers just forward of the rounded end and give a light squeeze. This should tighten them up a bit,
Bill
Thanks, everyone!
Earl Morton
Kent, WA
Kent, WA