easterngray I thought some of you guys might like to see some pictures of the Goldie I'm restoring.. It has been a blast! Before After Before After Other than the paint job, there's also new gilmer and drive belts and a full cleaning and lube. I bought the saw guard set and painted to match. I haven't done the Jig saw yet and still have a set of casters I have to clean, paint and install. I also need to do a high speed adjustment since installing the new belts. The only loss in the whole restoral process was a lost screw clip. Bringing it back has been fun - now I wanna get her dusty! Alec
dusty She looks great. You did some really fine work that you can be proud. She'll serve you great for years to come. One observation. Is that power cord in the picture heavy enough?
easterngray Thanks - I do intend to replace the cord, but my local hardware only had orange and I want a black one. The present one is plenty heavy though, 12 gauge I belive. It is grounded. Thanks again, Alec
paulmcohen easterngray wroteThanks - I do intend to replace the cord, but my local hardware only had orange and I want a black one. The present one is plenty heavy though, 12 gauge I belive. It is grounded. Thanks again, Alec Assuming you have not upgraded the motor I guess 12 gauge is OK (maybe someone else here knows), but if you decided to put in the larger motor I think you need a 15 AMP cord.
charlese I'll give you my KUDOS too!! The hard copper wire in my shop for 20 amps is all 12 gage. shop lights smaller at 14 gage. Although the wire in your cord is probably stranded and has a little less current carrying ability than solid - it should be ample. As I understand it, the only time the SS actually pulls near 20 amps is possibly on startup and when the motor is working a maximum capacity such as just getting ready to stall. Most of the work will be quite a bit less than 20 amps. I am assuming that your cord is copper and not aluminum. As I also understand - the next size up is 10 gage. This is only needed for carrying 30 amps. Very nice work!!!! (and this from a curmudgeon) P.S. April 11th. Today I looked and thought I'd just add a P.S. here. My original power cord on the 510 is 14 gage.
easterngray Thanks alot fellows. It really speaks volumes about the simple and efficient design of the Shopsmith that I was able to tear the whole thing down and put it all back together. I am not the worlds most mechanically inclined person, but the Shopsmith really is simple to work on. It reminds me of a Ford Model A! The only difficulties I encountered were due to operator error. For instance, when setting the Gilmer belt tension I could not get the eccentric bushing to turn, try as I may. As it turned out, I had the set-screw at the bottom of the bushing backed out too far and it was hitting the casing. A few turns with the allen wrench and she turned nicely. The only other issue I have currently is that the quill is not retracting as well as it should. I may have a bur in the race on the top that the set-screw rides in - I'm going to check it this afternoon. But Easter ham comes first!! Happy Easter to all! Alec
chiroindixon Looks great. I did a similar rebuild on a '54 Magna. We're all waiting for the upgrade bug to hit you.:rolleyes: While you are ordering parts, make sure that you get the two drive spindle hubs that mount on both left side shafts. I see in the original picture they are missing. Very easy to lose track of them. You probably never received them from previous owner. You not only need them to couple other accessories, like a jointer, but as important, they act as heat sinks. Without them, that headstock can get very hot and possibly cause internal damage. Shopsmith TA instructors are emphatic about that point. The hubs are to remain in place unless you need to remove for disk sanding. When finished, replace. Doc
easterngray Doc - Thanks alot - I have the hubs but they are sitting on the bench - I had no idea that they served a purpose beyond the obvious. I'll get them shined up and installed, pronto. Thanks again! Alec
rcartmetal That there is a right purty tool, alrighty! So what did you do to the lower tubes to make 'em look so nice? And which brands of paint did you use, again?
easterngray Thanks fellas - the paints were all Rustoleum both the hammered finish in gold and copper and a silver that was designed for outdoor use for the lower tubes - The silver went on very thin, took many coats, and a full can for the two tubes. Thanks again! Alec
ouagawood I am in the same boat with a 1985 mark V. How did you get the tubes cleaned up ? Elbow grease, WD40 and steel wool or something else ? i am still working on the table and legs.
easterngray Ouagawood - I started on the way tubes with WD 40 and a bunch of green Scotchbrite pads. Lots of elbow grease and paper shop rags! I then moved to medium and then fine steel wool. It took a while, but worked well. The lower support tubes were originally painted silver. I did the same routine with them, but not nearly as thorough as I intended to paint them over with Rustoleum. Worked great. The tubes are by no means perfect, but certainly much better. I applied a coat of wax to both sets of tubes. Good luck and take pictures! Alec
