Other than the paint job, there's also new gilmer and drive belts and a full cleaning and lube. I bought the saw guard set and painted to match. I haven't done the Jig saw yet and still have a set of casters I have to clean, paint and install. I also need to do a high speed adjustment since installing the new belts. The only loss in the whole restoral process was a lost screw clip. Bringing it back has been fun - now I wanna get her dusty! Alec
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One observation. Is that power cord in the picture heavy enough?
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Assuming you have not upgraded the motor I guess 12 gauge is OK (maybe someone else here knows), but if you decided to put in the larger motor I think you need a 15 AMP cord.easterngray wrote:Thanks - I do intend to replace the cord, but my local hardware only had orange and I want a black one. The present one is plenty heavy though, 12 gauge I belive. It is grounded. Thanks again, Alec
The hard copper wire in my shop for 20 amps is all 12 gage. shop lights smaller at 14 gage. Although the wire in your cord is probably stranded and has a little less current carrying ability than solid - it should be ample. As I understand it, the only time the SS actually pulls near 20 amps is possibly on startup and when the motor is working a maximum capacity such as just getting ready to stall. Most of the work will be quite a bit less than 20 amps. I am assuming that your cord is copper and not aluminum. As I also understand - the next size up is 10 gage. This is only needed for carrying 30 amps.
Very nice work!!!! (and this from a curmudgeon)
P.S. April 11th. Today I looked and thought I'd just add a P.S. here. My original power cord on the 510 is 14 gage.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
While you are ordering parts, make sure that you get the two drive spindle hubs that mount on both left side shafts. I see in the original picture they are missing.
Very easy to lose track of them. You probably never received them from previous owner.
You not only need them to couple other accessories, like a jointer, but as important, they act as heat sinks. Without them, that headstock can get very hot and possibly cause internal damage. Shopsmith TA instructors are emphatic about that point. The hubs are to remain in place unless you need to remove for disk sanding. When finished, replace.