Leichtung universal jig

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:46 pm

Does anybody use one of these?
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/fullpres.exe?PARTNUM=30254&search=Jig&smode=&showsingle=
I bought one of these at an estate sale today for $10. The now deceased owner had never used it. It was still new in the box with the instructions. The picture shows one clamp arm but it ships with two. It "looks" useful (shrug).

One feature I did not see mentioned on the web page is that it is adjustable to fit different width miter gauge slots.
I also picked up a boxed set of Porter Cable router bushings for $5. Like these but the box is different.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4855&wcs=4981&pcs=fam
I could not find any signs of use on them either and the plastic case was still in the cardboard box.
I see so many of such items that either look like they had been used heavily or look like they have never been used or barely used. There seems to be little middle ground. I suppose that a lot of us buy these things because they look good but then we just don't adapt to using them.
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This fellow had died and I guess it is possible that he had bought some new stuff and possibly his health had failed before he could use them. I had an uncle that had wanted a wood shop all of his life but never got one until well into his 80's. I think he puttered in there for a couple of years.
I am at an age now (67) where it makes me a little nervous to write something like that last paragraph. I don't want to tempt fate...

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:08 pm

Hi farmer,

I bought that jig about 10 years ago...do knot remember the price...and have used it a bit, but knot as much as I could. I do like it, and can use it on any table saw including the Mark V. I figure that I will never buy the SS Tenon Master jig, because I have that one.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:09 pm

Hi;
The router guide bushings should not show any signs of wear. Signs of wear would indicate improper use. The router bit should never come in contact with the bushing. The retaining collar will tighten against the bushing and hold it in the router plate with just finger pressure.
If you have a router similar to mine (DeWalt 621) make sure that the bit stays centered in the guide collar. The clamp that locks the router height in the frame can sometimes pull the router motor body slightly to one side and decrease the distance from the guide bushing to the router bit and sometimes cause the bit to contact the guide collar.
Now ask the obvious question "How do I know that?" Been there, done that, don't want to do it again!!!!! REALLY SCARY.
Bill V

dlbristol · Post by **dlbristol** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:31 pm

I have one of these jigs. I got it on sale some where, not sure where. It works well if you are careful to keep things tight. I have used it mostly to do tenons. Mine came with two of the clamping arms. It can do a lot of things with the way you can move the pins around. I played at some splines once and got pretty good results. I love the " it looked useful" thought!! My dad used to say "man thats a nice one, What is it?"

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Tue May 18, 2010 11:24 am

dlbristol wrote:I have one of these jigs. I got it on sale some where, not sure where. It works well if you are careful to keep things tight. I have used it mostly to do tenons. Mine came with two of the clamping arms. It can do a lot of things with the way you can move the pins around. I played at some splines once and got pretty good results. I love the " it looked useful" thought!! My dad used to say "man thats a nice one, What is it?"

How did you end up adapting it to your shopsmith table? I have the "craftsman universal jig", but naturally its designed for slightly wider slots. I can grind/file down the miter bar portion, but keeping it square is pretty important =)

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Tue May 18, 2010 11:49 am

damagi wrote:How did you end up adapting it to your shopsmith table? I have the "craftsman universal jig", but naturally its designed for slightly wider slots. I can grind/file down the miter bar portion, but keeping it square is pretty important =)

I would be tempted to use the conical disc sander with a fence and a carrier/sled. Light passes, alternating from one side to the other. I would lower the table as I went to slightly decrease the relative distance of the fence from the disc.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Tue May 18, 2010 12:42 pm

damagi wrote:How did you end up adapting it to your shopsmith table? I have the "craftsman universal jig", but naturally its designed for slightly wider slots. I can grind/file down the miter bar portion, but keeping it square is pretty important =)

I filed mine and it works well. File, test, file, test....etc....
IIRC, I slipped a strip of carbon paper around the bar to show the wide spots.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Wed May 19, 2010 1:10 am

damagi wrote:How did you end up adapting it to your shopsmith table? I have the "craftsman universal jig", but naturally its designed for slightly wider slots. I can grind/file down the miter bar portion, but keeping it square is pretty important =)

The miter bar is adjustable to fit any width table slot.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed May 19, 2010 7:40 am

a1gutterman wrote:The miter bar is adjustable to fit any width table slot.

Hmmm. Gene, did you file when you could have adjusted???

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Wed May 19, 2010 9:26 am

Mine is the Craftsman model. Not the Leightung. It was tight side to side. But, not too thick. Aluminum ? runner....soft, anyway.
The Leightung looks to be a much more adaptable unit. Larger face and more holes.