Shopsmith Forums

Hi:

I am on the look for a SS Mark V 220 VAC motor (230/240 also called). The reason is: I do have 220 VAc in my shop and I want to have the option of running one of my MARK V and have the 110 VAC free for other stuff.
I may be send overseas (work) and the 220 VAC will probably be the right system to carry.

Now, questions:

1) In the SS catalog they refer to this motor as 50/60 Hz. Does anybody know if it actually can work in both frequencies or is a different option you have to select when you order?

2) Recently I saw an special on motors with a 30% (or was 20%?) discount but only applied to the 120 VAC models; have you ever seen an special for the 220 VAC motors?

3) Have ever seen any advertised in Ebay? I could not yet locate one and brand new are too expensive.

I also wonder if the new announced headstock will also run on 220 VAC, 50/60 Hz.

Thanks

I bid on a Shopsmith 220v motor on eBay awhile back and it went for over $200. Don't see them very often.

Can the newer 220v motors be converted back to 110?

damagi wrote:Can the newer 220v motors be converted back to 110?

The 'newer' (power pro) motor has auto sensing, and accommodates whichever voltage is present'

The older 115/230v motors(been around for almost 60 yrs) have a split winding that may be connected either in parallel(115V) or series(230v), but do require rewiring to switch voltage.

JPG40504 wrote:The 'newer' (power pro) motor has auto sensing, and accommodates whichever voltage is present'

The older 115/230v motors(been around for almost 60 yrs) have a split winding that may be connected either in parallel(115V) or series(230v), but do require rewiring to switch voltage.

rewiring at the motor, or at the winding level?

damagi wrote:rewiring at the motor, or at the winding level?

External to the motor. Connecting external wires.

I really like running any heavier loads on 220V. I ran a lot of farm stuff on 220V like augers, grain cleaners, high pressure fans etc. I still have several 220V extension cords that I made up to run portable stuff at different locations. Back when I switched my old Craftsman table saw to 220 it was like switching the original 3/4 HP motor to a 1 HP motor. It gave it that little power boost it needed for ripping.
I intend to switch my 1 1/2 HP and 2 HP dust collectors both to 220V. My 5 HP planer has always been 220V of course. I doubt that I will convert my 6" long bed jointer since it starts easy, runs easy and seldom runs for any length of time when used.
I have always been a little disappointed that the Shopsmith motors will not convert... I think many would be amazed at the difference it would make on the old 3/4 HP motors. It sure cools down wire temperatures a lot.

Your best bet is to check with Customer Service regarding the 220 volt motor, especially the issue about 50/60 cycles/hertz. If it's a 60 cycle motor and you take it overseas where 50 cycles is used, you'll likely run into overheating problems.

pennview wrote:Your best bet is to check with Customer Service regarding the 220 volt motor, especially the issue about 50/60 cycles/hertz. If it's a 60 cycle motor and you take it overseas where 50 cycles is used, you'll likely run into overheating problems.

To say nothing of the speed reduction. As I understand it, the main shaft poly-v pulley is smaller(5/6 the size of a 'normal US version').

FWIW my Original Goldie motor is rated 115/230V 50/60 Hz.

JPG40504 wrote:The 'newer' (power pro) motor has auto sensing, and accommodates whichever voltage is present'

The older 115/230v motors(been around for almost 60 yrs) have a split winding that may be connected either in parallel(115V) or series(230v), but do require rewiring to switch voltage.

Yes, all the Shopsmith motors have split run windings. However there are no external connections to change voltage. I have been converting AO Smith, some GE and some Emerson motors to accept 110 VAC or 220 VAC (1st mod) along with making the motors reversible (2nd mod). The start winding and capacitor can only be connected for 110 VAC (half of the split run windings) when converting for 220 VAC input power. I have to cut the coil wraps and dig/retrieve the ends of the run and start windings from within the motor coils. I find that some motors have these connections on the outside end of the motor coils where I can retrieve them but the double bearing Emerson motors bury these wires to where they cannot be retrieved. The motor coils can be damaged/shorted if I am not real careful when doing this task.

I have a motor repair and testing section in my shop and many special and unique tools and equipment (a 0-50 ohm meter that can measure down to a .1 ohm level) along with insulating varnish. Shopsmith motor parts are not available from anyone as these motors were assemblied only for Shopsmith.

I am always interested in obtaining any non-operational 1 1/8 HP motors for their parts. I offer rebuilding service for non-burnt or non-smoked Shopsmith motors if interested. I find most burnt smell motors cannot be saved/rebuilt but still have usuable parts. Contact me for additional information if interested. I hope to have a couple of the 110/220 VAC 1 1/8 HP motors with reverse option available sometime after the New Year. I currently only use these headstocks/motors for my SHORTY and MINI Shopsmiths that I have available a couple times a year.