Blade Arbors, What, Where, When How

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dusty
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Blade Arbors, What, Where, When How

Post by dusty »

There has been a lot of discussion about arbors. Specifically, dado arbors. It seems that there is more than one but this is the only one I have seen or used.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=505506&Submit=Find+Item

Are there others? and

How are the spacers/washers supposed to be used? Does it really matter?
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mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

I have a plethora of arbors from several machines and flea market finds. I have some dado arbors that look identical but the wrenches from my 520 will not fit them. That is the only difference I can find and the spacers and washers all look the same. As for the 1 1/4" standard blade arbor, I have some from early Mark 5's that look the same as the one that came with my 520. Some one just posted in another thread that the 500's should not be used on a 510. Why? All are 5/8 shaft machines. :confused: :confused:
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

mbcabinetmaker wrote:I have a plethora of arbors from several machines and flea market finds. I have some dado arbors that look identical but the wrenches from my 520 will not fit them. That is the only difference I can find and the spacers and washers all look the same. As for the 1 1/4" standard blade arbor, I have some from early Mark 5's that look the same as the one that came with my 520. Some one just posted in another thread that the 500's should not be used on a 510. Why? All are 5/8 shaft machines. :confused: :confused:


The problem is clearance inside of the lower saw guard.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mbcabinetmaker wrote: . . .
Some one just posted in another thread that the 500's should not be used on a 510. Why? All are 5/8 shaft machines. :confused: :confused:

RE: 5/8" 'universal/dado' arbor - The large size of the outboard nut is the 'problem'. If the spacers are not used correctly and the threaded portion of the arbor protrudes excessively it WILL bump against the tie rod. This can be a problem with the 500 also. Perhaps this is the reason the large spacer was increased to 3/4". At one time there was an arbor which did NOT include the keyed washer(the threaded shaft was smooth). THAT one should NOT be used as a saw blade arbor. The reason for the collection of washers is to allow adjusting the position of the blade as close to the BOLT END of the arbor so as to minimize protrusion of the threaded portion beyond the blade(tie rod interference again!).

RE: 'Regular 1 1/4" 500 vs 510/20 arbors - No Problem - Unless you ARE dependent on the 'auto alignment of the blade to the table slot. They CAN be used by merely advancing the quill slightly. 500 arbors are shorter than 510/520 arbors which places the blade closer to the end of the quill shaft. Question not asked, but I anticipate it might!:)

P.S. Blade Guard - I will let those who use them to answer re guard interference.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

Here are some pics for your info. On the left is a 5/8" arbor from a 10ER that has no facility for the keyed washer. It didn't need it as the model 10's, of course, only had one output shaft that turn CCW. Middle is a newer 5/8" universal arbor. It is keyed and also RH thread. However with the Mark V, it could be mounted on the left side, CW rotation, and would require a keyed washer to prevent the nut coming loose. On the right is a current molder/dado arbor that is keyed, RH and about 1/4" longer than the older universal arbors. That 1/4" can cause interference with the tiebar shield on 505/510/520's. I also have an old 5/8" saw arbor from the very early Mark V's that will only accomodate a single saw blade.
Image
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:Here are some pics for your info. On the left is a 5/8" arbor from a 10ER that has no facility for the keyed washer. It didn't need it as the model 10's, of course, only had one output shaft that turn CCW. Middle is a newer 5/8" universal arbor. It is keyed and also RH thread. However with the Mark V, it could be mounted on the left side, CW rotation, and would require a keyed washer to prevent the nut coming loose. On the right is a current molder/dado arbor that is keyed, RH and about 1/4" longer than the older universal arbors. That 1/4" can cause interference with the tiebar shield on 505/510/520's. I also have an old 5/8" saw arbor from the very early Mark V's that will only accomodate a single saw blade.
Image

How much you want for that 3/8-16 with 5/32" hex set screw in the 'Middle NEWER' example????:D :D :D

Thank you for the 'history' lesson re keyed washer. Now it makes sense(folks used it for grinding etc. on the rear shaft).

Tell me about the set screw in the 'original model 10' arbor(on the left)????? Rebored for 5/16-18????

Also the 'right/current' one looks like a 3/8-16 with a 3/16 hex?????
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

JPG40504 wrote:How much you want for that 3/8-16 with 5/32" hex set screw in the 'Middle NEWER' example????:D :D :D
How much are you willing to pay? ]
JPG40504 wrote:
Thank you for the 'history' lesson re keyed washer. Now it makes sense(folks used it for grinding etc. on the rear shaft).

Tell me about the set screw in the 'original model 10' arbor(on the left)????? Rebored for 5/16-18????

Also the 'right/current' one looks like a 3/8-16 with a 3/16 hex?????
The 10E/ER's used two allen wrenches, 1/8" an 3/16", for most of the quill mounted accessories. The middle and right arbor both require a 5/32" allen wrench though it may not look that way in the picture. None of the arbors in the pictures have been rebored.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

. . . "[The 10E/ER's used two allen wrenches, 1/8" an 3/16", for most of the quill mounted accessories.]" . . .

Amazing what you can learn from asking seemingly irrelevant questions!;) tnx
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╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Post #6 has an interesting pix

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ight=arbor

There is an other(at least one) post showing different ss arbors.(I cannot seem to locate it!).:(
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by keakap »

dusty wrote:There has been a lot of discussion about arbors. Specifically, dado arbors. It seems that there is more than one but this is the only one I have seen or used.
Are there others? and
How are the spacers/washers supposed to be used? Does it really matter?
From my collection:
(off of two labels)
"Item NO. 505506
SHOPSMITH
5/8" UNIVERSAL ARBOR
BULLETIN NO. PL-669 (513130) 5/84

This precision arbor is designed to hold accessories with 5/8 mounting holes, safely and securely. Correct usage will assure accurate and trouble free operation.
1. In use, the threaded sgaft should be flush or extended past the end of the hex nut.
2. The 3 spacer washers can be used in any combination according to the thickness of the accessory being held. If the item is thin, the 5/8 thick washer should be used with one of the 3/16 thick washers. On wider items the two thinner washers are used.
All the washers have a machined relief on one face. This has been done so that only the outer portion of the washer clamps against the accessory item. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE SIDES OF THE WASHERS WITH THE MACHINED RELIEF ARE THOSE IN CONTACT WITH THE ACCESSORY BEING HELD. TIGHTEN NUT SECURELY.
3. The keyed washer must always be used when the arbor is mounted to a clockwise rotating spindle.
4. When mounting the arbor on any of the ShopSmith spindles, always check and then double check to be sure that the allen screw is tightened securely against the spindle.


_____________________________________________________

SHOPSMITH. INC.

555130

SAW ARBOR -- MKV 510

1-1/4"


MADE IN TAIWAN

___________________________________________________


Note Benny: the 505506 we see today is called the Moldy Dado arbor, and the description states that it is not to be used with a single blade.
It comes with a 3/4" spacer instead of the 5/8" spacer of the "Universal" arbor of days past.

I have two of these, not purchased at the same time, and they are identical except where they are not. One has a main body 1" in diameter, the other 1-1/4", considerably beefier. Same part no.

There is another 5/8 arbor listed, p/n 555608, which is for 510 single blade use. I have none of these.

I use the thicker of the "Universal" arbors for my best blade, using one 3/16 washer, then the Stabilizer, then the blade, then the 5/8 spacer, then the keyed washer, then (whew!) the nut.

A Combi carbide blade sits on the other 5/8 arbor, 3/16 washer, blade, 3/16, 5/8, keyed, nut. (Alternatively it is used on a wobble blade with only the 3/16 washers, max.)

I still have the old 500 1-1/4 arbor which is considerably shorter. It cannot be used on the 510 with guard on. (I should throw this out.)

That's all I know.
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