Drive sleeve bearings

[Ron309753]

I've been tearing down a greenie because it's been making some noise. I think I have it nailed down to the outer drive sleeve bearing, but I have 2 questions.
First, when I removed the drive sleeve the inner bearing remained in the headstock. Is there something holding it in there or do I just need to beat it out?
Second, I didn't find a part # to order the bearings from ShopSmith. Are these standard bearings and, if so, where can I get them?

While I have it disassembled I also plan to drill oiling holes in the control and floating sheaves, and will replace the drive belt with a linkbelt.

Sincerely,

Ron

[beeg]

Does this help?

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=15852&postcount=3

[Ron309753]

Thanks Bob! Bill M. is THEE man.

I should have searched the forum before submitting this thread. This is actually the post I was looking for:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=5

That definitely answers question 2. I'm thinking the answer to questions 1 is that the inner bearing is just stuck in the headstock.

Sincerely,

Ron

[etc92guy]

Hmmm.....when I disassembled mine it came out with the assembly. I'm assuming you had to beat it out. The press fit of the bearing on the shaft should have held it in place.

Is the bearing sitting in the headstock square or is it wedged? Hard to tell from the angle of the picture.

[billmayo]

Are you aware that there is a clutch inside the Gilmer pulley housing? You can see the teeth like cutouts around the outter end of the pulley. Contact me if you need any instructions on how to rebuild and test the Gilmer clutch or where I buy my bearings these days. Are you going to add an access hole under the LOGO cover plate? Difficult to oil the control sheave without an access hole. 35 Links for the link belt.

The aluminum headstock housing will crack around the drive sleeve bearing surfaces if the bearings are driven out when crooked (not straight). I have made a few bearing drivers using different size piping. I use to use a socket and long extension for years for this task. I believe I use a 1 1/2" pipe just to remove the inside bearing from the housing. It should never need any hard hammering to remove or install bearings in the headstock.

I finally found a cheap 12 ton hydranic press to remove the bearings. I still install bearings by hand using my bearing drivers and a small hammer.

I've been tearing down a greenie because it's been making some noise. I think I have it nailed down to the outer drive sleeve bearing, but I have 2 questions.
First, when I removed the drive sleeve the inner bearing remained in the headstock. Is there something holding it in there or do I just need to beat it out?
Second, I didn't find a part # to order the bearings from ShopSmith. Are these standard bearings and, if so, where can I get them?

While I have it disassembled I also plan to drill oiling holes in the control and floating sheaves, and will replace the drive belt with a linkbelt.

Sincerely,

Ron

[Ron309753]

Ok, the bearing is out. It didn't appear to be crooked so I removed the inside retaining ring and drove it on through with a large socket and extension. You can see from the picture that there was some kind of corrosion or perhaps someone (my farther in law) had glued it in place. I hammered on it pretty good, so I carefully inspected the headstock bearing surfaces and there aren't any cracks. It's really quite amazing how durable these machines are.

Bill,

Yes, I definitely would like to know how rebuild and test the Gilmer clutch and where do you do acquire your bearings now and what part # should I get?
This casting has an access hole, but my other machine does not so when I do that one I was thinking of using a bi-metal hole saw to cut out the access hole. Although the thought of buying a $35 hole saw for a one-time job is not appealing.

Sincerely,

Ron