Shopsmith Forums

You seasoned guys will probably laugh at this post but remember, you were unseasoned at some point too.

How would you go about crosscutting 3" off a 6 foot long 2x8 on a Mark 5,V and getting the cut square?? It must be that you have to make a jig of some sort to capture a couple of feet of the board to hold it so that it runs square to the blade?????

Either I am missing something VERY obvious or my statement above is correct.

Posted with potential embarrassment, but man enough to do it....mickyd

mickyd wrote:You seasoned guys will probably laugh at this post but remember, you were unseasoned at some point too.

How would you go about crosscutting 3" off a 6 foot long 2x8 on a Mark V and getting the cut square. It must be that you have to make a jig of some sort to capture a couple of feet of the board to hold it so that it runs square to the blade?????

Either I am missing something VERY obvious or my statement above is correct.

Posted with potential embarrassment, but man enough to do it....mickyd

Slide the carriage and table all the way to the right toward 'tailstock end'. mount the extension table on the left end. set the table heights so they match and allow a through cut of the 2x8. If you do NOT have a main table extender, lower the main table as far as it will go. Set the extension table to the same height.

Using the miter slot to the left of the blade, align the 2x8 to it. At this point you will wish the table was larger! The miter gauge is hanging off the front of the table considerably. As best you can, hold the 2x8 against the miter gauge while pushing the miter gauge and 2x8 into the saw blade(rotating). Aiding the alignment can be accomplished by simultaneously pushing the 2x8 near the extension table. The 'trick' IS to keep the 2x8 square(tight against the miter gauge).

Doing it this way a few(very) times will give you an appreciation of why a

1)front table extension is 'handy'.

2)miter gauge extension is 'handy'.

3)a miter gauge hold down is 'handy'.


Slow and steady - it may help to clamp the 2x8 to the miter gauge . . . somehow.
.

If you have a sound miter gauge, a clean table and a sharp blade, there shouldn't be a problem making that cut.

Try raising the table above the blade and set everything up as if you're going to cut. Run the board through a few times and note ANY restrictions, tugs, binds, whatever. If you can run the board across the table smoothly and evenly without the blade, with cautious feed speed you should be able to do the cut just fine.

OOPS! Major faux pas: I read the cut as 3' and not 3". So yeah, the Extension table's the answer. Trying the run thru w/o the blade will tell you exactly what to expect as far as forces trying to 'unsquare' the moving board.

mickyd wrote:You seasoned guys will probably laugh at this post but remember, you were unseasoned at some point too.

How would you go about crosscutting 3" off a 6 foot long 2x8 on a Mark 5,V and getting the cut square?? It must be that you have to make a jig of some sort to capture a couple of feet of the board to hold it so that it runs square to the blade?????

Either I am missing something VERY obvious or my statement above is correct.

Posted with potential embarrassment, but man enough to do it....mickyd

Excellent question. I began by purchasing the shopsmith sliding table system item # 555535 which is 31 3/4" wide. Mine has been modified a bit after watching a sawdust session on sliding tables. Sorry but the doctor and my bride will not allow me near the shop this week. Once I am able to sneak down there I will post a picture. The width gives a great inflexible means to quarantee squareness. The modifications I have made even allow repetitive cuts due to the addition of an adjustable flip stop and the ability to clamp the stock to be cut in place. Jim

All the above are good input....

I use a miter-gage with an extension board on it. And whenever possible I clamp my long workpiece to the extension board. This really helps control things to keep it all square.

mickyd wrote:You seasoned guys will probably laugh at this post but remember, you were unseasoned at some point too.

How would you go about crosscutting 3" off a 6 foot long 2x8 on a Mark 5,V and getting the cut square?? It must be that you have to make a jig of some sort to capture a couple of feet of the board to hold it so that it runs square to the blade?????

Either I am missing something VERY obvious or my statement above is correct.

Posted with potential embarrassment, but man enough to do it....mickyd

I would immediately grab the sliding cross cut sled for this job. But if you don't have one and you can't wait for the one you just ordered to arrive, I would create a fence from a piece of straight stock, screw it to the miter gauge using the slots provided and cut away.

Clamping the stock to the temporary fence might help doing this job accurately and safely.

dusty wrote:I would immediately grab the sliding cross cut sled for this job. But if you don't have one and you can't wait for the one you just ordered to arrive, I would create a fence from a piece of straight stock, screw it to the miter gauge using the slots provided and cut away.

Clamping the stock to the temporary fence might help doing this job accurately and safely.

Sheesh! I did not know 'cross cutting' was such a 'popular' subject!:D

Good suggestion(s) from Dusty and Nuhobby!

I was concerned about adding to the miter gauge 'overhang'.

I feel better now. I'm tellin' ya, as I tried to figure out every possible way to do it at the machine last night with combinations of headstock direction, extension table position in tailstock / headstock, etc., I figured (and hoped) that it wouldn't be something obvious that I was missing. I hesitated on posted figuring I'd go home tonight and have a "AH-HA" moment.....but figured what the heck.....worst that will happen is egg on face. I feel like I am coming away CLEAN.

Thanks for all the posts. I think I can tackle it. I'll get it to within .05° for dusty, just to show you guys we can.

JPG40504 wrote: The miter gauge is hanging off the front of the table considerably. .

I've reversed my miter gauge to accommodate this problem.

dusty wrote:I would immediately grab the sliding cross cut sled for this job. But if you don't have one and you can't wait for the one you just ordered to arrive, I would create a fence from a piece of straight stock, screw it to the miter gauge using the slots provided and cut away.

Clamping the stock to the temporary fence might help doing this job accurately and safely.

This is the way I always have done it, and it has turned out good.