Shopsmith Forums

I was going to try my sanding drum for the first time (purchased used), but found that the set screw hole is stripped out. Do I have any options for repair? Tap to a larger size? Tap a new hole on the other side? Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,

Loren

hobbydad wrote:I was going to try my sanding drum for the first time (purchased used), but found that the set screw hole is stripped out. Do I have any options for repair? Tap to a larger size? Tap a new hole on the other side? Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks,

Loren

I would drill and tap the other side if you have the drill and tap available. The next larger set screw 3/8" requires a larger allen wrench 3/16" that you have to keep track of.

You can use a Heli-coil but it requires a special drill, tap and insertion tool. Other types of sleeves/inserts still requires drilling and taping and there may not be room on the sanding drum hub for these solutions.

another option is to make sure the stripped hole is clean and fill it with JBweld. after it hardens drill and tap the same hole.

Thank you for the help. I will have to borrow the tap from my father the next time I'm there. Can I use the SS to drill the hole?

Loren

hobbydad wrote:Can I use the SS to drill the hole?

yes, you can BUT you need to plan ahead about how you are going to support the shaft and clamp it in place. do not expect to get away with hand-holding it.

you can use the SS in drill press or horizontal mode. which mode you use will make a difference in the clamping/support.

if you drill a pilot hole, it will make your life easier. use a pilot drill that is large enough to be stiff and also larger in diameter than the tip of the tap drill.

I don't think I would want to prick-punch the metal that my SS drum sander is made of. (I could be wrong) instead, I would use a small flat file (or even the side edge of a mill smooth file) to put a small flat where you want to drill.

Ivan

iclark wrote:. . .

I don't think I would want to prick-punch the metal that my SS drum sander is made of. (I could be wrong) instead, I would use a small flat file (or even the side edge of a mill smooth file) to put a small flat where you want to drill.

Ivan

It all depends on how big a prick you use and how hard you hit it!:D

JPG40504 wrote:It all depends on how big a prick you use and how hard you hit it!:D

so true:D

I was thinking hard enough so that the pilot drill would not walk.
hmm, perhaps I phrased that poorly. let's try again:

I had in mind hitting the punch with sufficient force to make a dimple sufficiently large enough that the tip of the pilot drill would be guided along a radius of the cylinder without walking off to unintended locations.

Ivan

[quote="iclark"]so true:D

I was thinking hard enough so that the pilot drill would not walk.
hmm, perhaps I phrased that poorly. let's try again: ]

Providing a 'holder' for the cylinder being drilled into and positioning the dimple under the bit IS important. A very small pilot hole requires only a small dimple. A small bit tends to bend making the wandering more likely(and breaking the bit).

JPG40504 wrote:Providing a 'holder' for the cylinder being drilled into and positioning the dimple under the bit IS important. A very small pilot hole requires only a small dimple. A small bit tends to bend making the wandering more likely(and breaking the bit).

Especially those made in China bits!:rolleyes:

Use the upright drill press mode and tilt the table to 45 deg to form a "V" block and drill the pilot hole.
Bill V